{"id":2489,"date":"2022-06-15T19:11:30","date_gmt":"2022-06-15T17:11:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/?p=2489"},"modified":"2024-07-30T17:08:10","modified_gmt":"2024-07-30T15:08:10","slug":"15-sodankyla-neiden-km-4850-km-5260","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/?p=2489","title":{"rendered":"15 &#8211; Sodankyl\u00e4 > Neiden (km 4850 &#8211; km 5260)"},"content":{"rendered":"<link rel='stylesheet' id='osm-ol3-css-css' href='https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/osm\/js\/OL\/10.9.0\/ol.css?ver=10.9.0&#038;ver=7.0.2' media='all' \/>\n<link rel='stylesheet' id='osm-ol3-ext-css-css' href='https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/osm\/css\/osm_map_v3.css?ver=1.0.0&#038;ver=7.0.2' media='all' \/>\n<link rel='stylesheet' id='osm-map-css-css' href='https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/osm\/css\/osm_map.css?ver=1.0.0&#038;ver=7.0.2' media='all' \/>\n<script id=\"wp-polyfill-js\" 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map_ol3js_1.getLayers().forEach(function(layer){\n         if(!layer.get(\"id\")) {     \n            layer.once(\"change\", function(e){\n               ol.extent.extend(extension1, (layer.getSource().getExtent()));\n               map_ol3js_1.getView().fit(extension1, {padding: [50, 50, 50, 50]});\n            });\n         }\n      });\n\n    \naddControls2Map(map_ol3js_1,0,1,3,0,5,6,7,0,1);\nosm_addPopupClickhandler(map_ol3js_1,  \"map_ol3js_1\"); \nosm_addMouseHover(map_ol3js_1); <\/script>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:30px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>2022\/06\/06 Madetkosken kyl\u00e4kota \u2013 Kakslauttanen : 71km. <strong>Dans la for\u00eat bor\u00e9ale de Urho Kekkonen<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/06\/07 <strong>Les M\u00e9sangeais imitateurs de Urho Kekkonen<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/06\/08 Kakslauttanen \u2013 Saariselk\u00e4 &#8211; Rahaj\u00e4rvi 63km (bivouac)<strong> Les Hirondelles de rivage<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/06\/09 <strong>Journ\u00e9e au lac de Rahaj\u00e4rvi<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/06\/10 Rahaj\u00e4rvi \u2013 Toivoniementie lintutorni&nbsp;: 55km.<strong> La grande tour d&rsquo;observation<\/strong> <strong>des sizerins<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/06\/11 Toivoniementie lintutorni \u2013 Pekkala : 60 km. <strong>Crottes de mouze et B\u00e9cassine sourde<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/06\/12 Pekkala \u2013 N\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4m\u00f6&nbsp;: 79km. <strong>Attaque de moustiques dans la maison abandonn\u00e9e<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/06\/13 N\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4m\u00f6 \u2013 Neiden&nbsp;: 11 km. <strong>Premier camping en Norv\u00e8ge<\/strong> !<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le ciel est magnifique au-dessus du Kota, les petits cumulus sont de bonne augure pour le reste de la journ\u00e9e. Nous roulons assez vite et croisons quelques rennes, avant de voir au loin deux silhouettes famili\u00e8res arr\u00eat\u00e9es au bord de la route&nbsp;: des cyclistes-\u00e0-sacoches&nbsp;! Un couple en voyage de noces, de Berlin aussi, qui font la route inverse, depuis le Cap Nord vers le Sud de l\u2019Europe. Nous discutons une bonne demi-heure ensemble, \u00e9changeant des informations sur nos itin\u00e9raires respectifs et notre mat\u00e9riel. Ils nous recommandent un <em>laavu&nbsp;<\/em>(mot cl\u00e9 important en Finlande, pour trouver un camp), un peu \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9cart de la route, dans le Parc National de Urho Kekkonen. Il est \u00e0 une distance qui nous va, et leur enthousiasme nous convainc d\u2019y aller.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2417\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_120758-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2417\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_120758-scaled.jpg 1920w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_120758-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_120758-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_120758-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_120758-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2352\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_072231-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2352\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_072231-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_072231-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_072231-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_072231-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_072231-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_072231-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_072231-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"2465\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220608_081453111-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2465\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220608_081453111-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220608_081453111-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220608_081453111-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220608_081453111-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220608_081453111-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A mi-parcours, une sup\u00e9rette-station service un peu sp\u00e9ciale est l\u2019occasion de notre halte sandwich. Ce genre de magasins vend tout ce dont on peut avoir besoin quand on habite au bout du monde&nbsp;: mat\u00e9riel de p\u00eache, de chasse, de couture, alimentation, pi\u00e8ces automobiles, pharmacie, plantes, outils\u2026 Marine reste \u00e0 l\u2019ext\u00e9rieur en compagnie d\u2019un beau chien blanc, dont le ma\u00eetre lui a donn\u00e9 la laisse plut\u00f4t que de l\u2019attacher au crochet pr\u00e9vu sur la fa\u00e7ade. Son poil est si soyeux et blanc qu\u2019on lui attribue un pr\u00e9nom&nbsp;: Lumipallo (\u00ab&nbsp;boule de neige&nbsp;\u00bb en finnois). Gabriel revient tout content avec un <em>puukko<\/em>, le couteau de travail traditionnel finlandais, dans son \u00e9tui en cuir. Un r\u00eave d\u2019enfant depuis celui qui avait \u00e9t\u00e9 rapport\u00e9 de ces m\u00eames contr\u00e9es nordiques, \u00e0 ses cousins Gaspard et Julien, il y a bien longtemps. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"2418\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_121402_582.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2418\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_121402_582.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_121402_582-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_121402_582-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_121402_582-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_121402_582-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2419\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_123611-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2419\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_123611-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_123611-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_123611-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_123611-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_123611-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_123611-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_123611-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1280\" data-id=\"2420\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_130150-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2420\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_130150-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_130150-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_130150-1024x512.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_130150-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_130150-1536x768.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220606_130150-2048x1024.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">35 kilom\u00e8tres plus loin, nous bifurquons \u00e0 la hauteur de Kautanenn pour aller chercher le <em>laavu<\/em> au bout d\u2019un sentier dans la for\u00eat. Des cris de qu\u00e9mandage nous interpellent&nbsp;: une M\u00e9sange lapone nourrit son petit tout tremblant sur une branche de bouleau. Nous ne sommes pas assez discrets avec nos trois v\u00e9los charg\u00e9s et nos gilets fluos\u2026 Les deux oiseaux s\u2019envolent. Le l<em>aavu<\/em> est en contrebas, au bord d\u2019une rivi\u00e8re dont nous d\u00e9couvrons avec \u00e9merveillement le parcours sinueux. Gabriel y voit un lieu id\u00e9al pour installer le village de Yakari, le petit indien (voir la r\u00e9f\u00e9rence au rayon bande dessin\u00e9e jeunesse). On joue \u00e0 notre tour aux indiens&nbsp;: nous nous approprions les lieux et reprenons le feu qu\u2019une famille, install\u00e9e avant nous, nous transmet. A partir de ce moment-l\u00e0, nous nous sentons chez nous. Un visiteuse en sac \u00e0 dos et chaussures de montagne, arrive par le sentier de randonn\u00e9e du long de la rivi\u00e8re. Elle s\u2019accroupit pour prendre des photos au sol avant d\u2019arriver vers notre camp. Marine va \u00e0 sa rencontre et fait connaissance avec cette professeur de biologie de Helsinki, venue passer ses vacances au Nord du pays. Elle nous aide \u00e0 identifier les papillons photographi\u00e9s en Su\u00e8de quelques semaines plus t\u00f4t.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"2424\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185117_959.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2424\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185117_959.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185117_959-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185117_959-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185117_959-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185117_959-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1267\" data-id=\"2423\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_101538-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2423\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_101538-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_101538-300x149.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_101538-1024x507.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_101538-768x380.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_101538-1536x760.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_101538-2048x1014.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1952\" data-id=\"2461\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220606_140510980-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2461\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220606_140510980-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220606_140510980-2-300x229.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220606_140510980-2-1024x781.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220606_140510980-2-768x586.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220606_140510980-2-1536x1171.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220606_140510980-2-2048x1561.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1716\" data-id=\"2374\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170578-1-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2374\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170578-1-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170578-1-300x201.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170578-1-1024x686.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170578-1-768x515.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170578-1-1536x1029.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170578-1-2048x1373.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1720\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2373\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170567-1-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2373\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170567-1-scaled.jpg 1720w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170567-1-202x300.jpg 202w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170567-1-688x1024.jpg 688w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170567-1-768x1143.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170567-1-1032x1536.jpg 1032w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170567-1-1376x2048.jpg 1376w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1720px) 100vw, 1720px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Plus tard dans la soir\u00e9e, Marine revient de la rivi\u00e8re o\u00f9 elle faisait la vaisselle en s\u2019exclamant \u00ab&nbsp;j\u2019ai trouv\u00e9 de l\u2019or&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb. Alexandra et Gabriel se penchent sur les paillettes dor\u00e9es du creux de la main de Marine. Serait-ce possible&nbsp;? Il y a en effet un village de chercheurs d\u2019or \u00e0 quelques kilom\u00e8tres&nbsp;! C\u2019est la ru\u00e9e vers l\u2019or, Gabriel et Alexandra se pr\u00e9cipitent pr\u00e8s du pont, sur la petite plage \u00e0 l\u2019ext\u00e9rieur d\u2019un m\u00e9andre. Le soleil fait scintiller pleins de petites paillettes \u00e0 cet endroit&nbsp;! Tout compte fait, apr\u00e8s quelques recherches sur internet, il s\u2019agirait en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 d\u2019\u00e9clats de mica ou d\u2019un autre min\u00e9ral dor\u00e9\u2026 Nous ne pourrons donc pas nous offrir tout de suite le Farrhad TX1000 qui nous fait r\u00eaver.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous avons d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de rester une nuit de plus au <em>laavu<\/em> pour explorer la vieille for\u00eat de Urho Kekkonen et randonner un peu plus loin sur le point culminant. L\u2019atmosph\u00e8re s\u00e8che et lumineuse r\u00e9v\u00e8le les couleurs pastels des lichens et fait briller le bois argent\u00e9 des arbres morts. La for\u00eat est intacte, pas de trace d\u2019entretien, si ce n\u2019est les chemins trac\u00e9s pour les randonneurs \u00e0 ski. Les arbres en chandelles sont nombreux \u00e0 \u00e9lever vers le ciel leurs branches noueuses qui nous racontent une croissance perturb\u00e9e par la rudesse des saisons. Ils tomberont un jour au sol absorb\u00e9s en humus sous les mousses et les lichens. Contrairement \u00e0 toutes les for\u00eats exploit\u00e9es que nous avons travers\u00e9es, celle-ci permet de d\u00e9rouler le cycle naturel du vivant. Les pics creuseront leur loge dans les chandelles pour le printemps, o\u00f9 les chouettes prendront leur place cet hiver, les d\u00e9tritivores s\u2019occuperont du bois mort et fourniront la nourriture aux oisillons \u00e0 na\u00eetre en \u00e9t\u00e9. Les lichens s\u2019offrent en p\u00e2ture aux troupeaux de rennes itin\u00e9rants. Les rongeurs y trouveront aussi leur compte et termineront dans les estomacs des petits carnivores et dans les pelottes des rapaces nocturnes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-4 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"2429\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_400.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2429\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_400.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_400-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_400-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_400-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_400-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1774\" data-id=\"2376\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170603-1-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2376\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170603-1-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170603-1-300x208.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170603-1-1024x710.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170603-1-768x532.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170603-1-1536x1064.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170603-1-2048x1419.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1671\" data-id=\"2367\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170623-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2367\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170623-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170623-300x196.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170623-1024x668.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170623-768x501.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170623-1536x1002.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170623-2048x1337.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Gabriel est assis sur un arbre couch\u00e9, et fait signe \u00e0 Alexandra et Marine. Un gros oiseau gris-beige vient de d\u00e9coller pr\u00e8s de lui, d\u2019un vol lourd et bruyant au ras du sol&nbsp;: une femelle de Grand T\u00e9tra. Cet endroit est manifestement aussi le domaine de ce grand galliforme, si l\u2019on en croit les nombreux crottiers trouv\u00e9s sur ce tapis moussu. Un peu plus loin, un gros rougequeue passe devant le sentier. V\u00e9rification aux jumelles, ce n\u2019est pas un rougequeue, c\u2019est un M\u00e9sangeai imitateur, de la taille d\u2019un merle, avec la queue rousse. Marine installe la longue-vue pour mieux l\u2019observer. Il n\u2019est pas seul, quatre autres cong\u00e9n\u00e8res volettent dans un pin. Le M\u00e9sangeai imitateur est appel\u00e9 Geai de Sib\u00e9rie en anglais. Typique des for\u00eats septentrionales, il appartient en effet \u00e0 la m\u00eame famille que le Geai des ch\u00eanes. On tend l\u2019oreille pour percevoir leurs cris. Pourquoi \u00ab&nbsp;imitateur&nbsp;?&nbsp;\u00bb, c\u2019est pourtant un oiseau au chant sourd qui miaule de discrets babils. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-5 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2550\" height=\"2550\" data-id=\"2525\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170632-2-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170632-2-1.jpg 2550w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170632-2-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170632-2-1-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170632-2-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170632-2-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170632-2-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170632-2-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2550px) 100vw, 2550px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">M\u00e9sangeai imitateur<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Gabriel ne se sent pas bien apr\u00e8s le pique nique, il retourne au camp pour se reposer cet apr\u00e8s-midi. Marine et Alexandra poursuivent le sentier pour gravir le sommet de Niilanp\u00e4\u00e4. La for\u00eat s\u2019\u00e9claircit \u00e0 mesure que l\u2019on approche, les bouleaux ne d\u00e9passent plus notre taille. Il sont maintenant rampants et rabougris, \u00e0 l\u2019image des gen\u00e9vriers de montagne, lorsque nous atteignons les pierriers de granit du flanc de la colline. Apr\u00e8s un passage dans un n\u00e9v\u00e9, Marine scrute \u00e0 la longue-vue le sommet. Il doit s\u00fbrement y avoir des Lagop\u00e8des l\u00e0-dedans, c\u2019est tout \u00e0 fait leur milieu. Il y a quelque chose des paysages de gneiss de l\u2019Oisans des alpes fran\u00e7aises\u2026 Pas de perdrix des neiges, tant pis. Seulement deux faucons de grande stature dans le ciel, peut-\u00eatre des Faucons de gerfaut&nbsp;ou des Faucons p\u00e8lerins ? Difficile \u00e0 dire \u00e0 cette distance. Ils ne sont plus que deux points sur les nuages quand nous amor\u00e7ons la descente.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-6 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2448\" height=\"2448\" data-id=\"2463\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_095405620-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2463\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_095405620-2.jpg 2448w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_095405620-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_095405620-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_095405620-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_095405620-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_095405620-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_095405620-2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2448px) 100vw, 2448px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"2425\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_248.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2425\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_248.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_248-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_248-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_248-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_248-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"2427\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_302.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2427\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_302.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_302-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_302-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_302-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_302-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"2428\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_343.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2428\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_343.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_343-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_343-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_343-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_343-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2448\" height=\"2448\" data-id=\"2464\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_122702735-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2464\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_122702735-2.jpg 2448w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_122702735-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_122702735-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_122702735-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_122702735-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_122702735-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220607_122702735-2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2448px) 100vw, 2448px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1079\" data-id=\"2426\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_281.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2426\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_281.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_281-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_281-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_281-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220608_185118_281-768x767.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le chemin du retour est d\u00e9tremp\u00e9 et il faut choisir les bons cailloux pour ne pas s\u2019enfoncer dans le sol mou. On plaisante avec des histoires de sables mouvants en visant les zones qui nous paraissent s\u00fbres. Notre progression se fait ainsi \u00e0 grandes enjamb\u00e9es jusqu\u2019\u00e0 rejoindre la for\u00eat sous le chant des Pipits spioncelles. Nous prenons une pause pour boire dans la rivi\u00e8re, car nous avons laiss\u00e9 la gourde dans le sac de Gabriel. Encore quelques kilom\u00e8tres \u00e0 la suivre et nous retrouvons le<em> laavu<\/em>. Un groupe de trois personnes, jumelles autour du cou, sont install\u00e9es sur les bancs de l\u2019abri. Ces ornithologues attendent un signe du Pic tridactyle qui a \u00e9t\u00e9 observ\u00e9 dans les parages il y a quelques jours. Marine est d\u00e9sol\u00e9e d\u2019apprendre que deux Lagop\u00e8des des alpes on \u00e9t\u00e9 observ\u00e9s l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi m\u00eame par ces derniers. \u00ab&nbsp;Au sommet, et en habits d\u2019hiver, tout blancs&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">10 degr\u00e9s dans la tente ce Mercredi 8 Juin. Gabriel va mieux, excellente nouvelle \u00e0 laquelle on ajoute le passage des 5000 km \u00e0 la hauteur de Saariselk\u00e4. Nous stoppons notre convoi pour laisser passer des rennes devant nous. C\u2019est incroyable de les observer traverser \u00e0 leur rythme pour aller brouter en face. Proverbe de cervid\u00e9&nbsp;:\u00ab&nbsp;Le lichen est toujours plus savoureux de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170908-2-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2392\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170908-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170908-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170908-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170908-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170908-2-2048x1366.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Changement brutal d\u2019ambiance, nous sommes suivis par un camping-car un peu insistant derri\u00e8re nous, dans une c\u00f4te. Malgr\u00e9 le peu de visibilit\u00e9, il d\u00e9cide de nous doubler imprudemment, nous tendant au passage un beau doigt d\u2019honneur, d\u2019une main frip\u00e9e \u00e0 la chevali\u00e8re brillante. Nous sommes tous les trois constern\u00e9s, d\u2019autant que la plaque d\u2019immatriculation suisse \u00e9tait jusque-l\u00e0 gage de courtoisie et sympathie sur la route. Dans une descente entre Saariselka et Ivalo, Gabriel crie en anglais \u00ab&nbsp;regardez, la rivi\u00e8re coule vers le Nord&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb. Nous avons d\u00e9pass\u00e9 un point culminant, maintenant nous descendons avec les cours d\u2019eau, vers la Mer de Barents. Le Varanger est \u00e0 port\u00e9e de p\u00e9dales. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-7 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1651\" data-id=\"2391\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170889-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2391\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170889-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170889-300x194.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170889-1024x661.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170889-768x495.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170889-1536x991.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170889-2048x1321.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1742\" data-id=\"2380\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170643-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2380\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170643-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170643-300x204.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170643-1024x697.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170643-768x523.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170643-1536x1045.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170643-2048x1393.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1641\" data-id=\"2379\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170642-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2379\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170642-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170642-300x192.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170642-1024x656.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170642-768x492.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170642-1536x984.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170642-2048x1312.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ravitaillement \u00e0 Ivalo en vue de pr\u00e9parer quelque chose de sp\u00e9cial pour f\u00eater les 5000 kilom\u00e8tres au prochain abri rep\u00e9r\u00e9 par Gabriel. Nous quittons la E75 et au bout de 3 km de piste poussi\u00e9reuse, nous arrivons sur une petite mise \u00e0 l\u2019eau o\u00f9 une famille occupe d\u00e9j\u00e0 le <em>laavu<\/em>. Nous faisons connaissance avec un couple atypique&nbsp;: une femme au teint aussi clair que ses cheveux, accord\u00e9oniste passionn\u00e9e de jazz manouche ayant fait des stages \u00e0 Besan\u00e7on (en France !), et un kirghize au sourire \u00e9maill\u00e9 d\u2019une dent en or, dresseur de chevaux dans un cirque. Leur trois enfants aux yeux brid\u00e9s courent partout, se vaporisent du Fanta dans la bouche, puis carbonisent de la guimauve au-dessus des flammes. Ils n\u2019ont pas r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 p\u00eacher du poisson ce soir, il faut venir plus t\u00f4t d\u2019apr\u00e8s eux. Apr\u00e8s leur d\u00e9part, nous grillons \u00e0 notre tour notre repas de f\u00eate. \u00c9pis de ma\u00efs et pommes de terres \u00e0 la braise, sauce yaourt et petits oignons frais. Un d\u00e9lice&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-8 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1688\" data-id=\"2381\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170662-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2381\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170662-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170662-300x198.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170662-1024x675.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170662-768x506.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170662-1536x1013.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170662-2048x1350.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1676\" data-id=\"2383\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170664-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2383\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170664-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170664-300x196.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170664-1024x670.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170664-768x503.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170664-1536x1005.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170664-2048x1340.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2389\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170855-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2389\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170855-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170855-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170855-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170855-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170855-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170855-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2384\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170672-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2384\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170672-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170672-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170672-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170672-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170672-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170672-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170672-2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1670\" data-id=\"2386\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170761-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2386\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170761-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170761-300x196.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170761-1024x668.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170761-768x501.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170761-1536x1002.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170761-2048x1336.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le lendemain matin, c\u2019est au tour d\u2019Alexandra de se sentir mal. Impossible d\u2019avaler quoi que ce soit&nbsp;; elle passera la journ\u00e9e dans sa tente \u00e0 se reposer et boire du th\u00e9 vert. Nous d\u00e9montons tout de m\u00eame la n\u00f4tre par discr\u00e9tion et pr\u00e9voyons un programme charg\u00e9 pour cette belle journ\u00e9e sous le soleil. Nouvelle coupe de cheveux pour Gabriel (avec les ciseaux de cuisine), s\u00e9ance photo du lac et de sa petite \u00eele, observations des oiseaux, pique-nique sur la plage, sieste, d\u00eener tous les deux dans la fum\u00e9e du feu&nbsp;: une vraie journ\u00e9e de vacances o\u00f9 nos jambes nous remercient. Cette fois-ci nous avons pu observer de tr\u00e8s pr\u00e8s les M\u00e9sanges lapones, venues se nourrir dans le pin derri\u00e8re nous pendant notre pique-nique. Gabriel a contourn\u00e9 les arbres pour chercher son appareil photo et s\u2019est ensuite confondu avec un tronc, l\u2019appareil braqu\u00e9 sur les petits oiseaux. Une des m\u00e9sanges est venue se poser \u00e0 moins d\u2019un m\u00e8tre au-dessus de sa t\u00eate, si pr\u00e8s qu\u2019il redoutait une fiente de sa part sur l\u2019objectif&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-9 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2385\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170728-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2385\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170728-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170728-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170728-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170728-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170728-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170728-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170728-2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Chevalier aboyeur<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2180\" height=\"2179\" data-id=\"2388\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170828-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2388\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170828-2.jpg 2180w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170828-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170828-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170828-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170828-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170828-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170828-2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2180px) 100vw, 2180px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pinson du Nord<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1560\" data-id=\"2390\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170873-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2390\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170873-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170873-2-300x183.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170873-2-1024x624.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170873-2-768x468.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170873-2-1536x936.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170873-2-2048x1248.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Harle hupp\u00e9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1700\" data-id=\"2382\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170663-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2382\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170663-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170663-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170663-1024x680.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170663-768x510.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170663-1536x1020.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170663-2048x1360.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2251\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220609_160815-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2251\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220609_160815-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220609_160815-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220609_160815-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220609_160815-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220609_160815-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220609_160815-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">M\u00e9sange lapone<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vendredi 10 Juin, la temp\u00e9rature baisse. La journ\u00e9e de repos pour Alexandra a \u00e9t\u00e9 b\u00e9n\u00e9fique et nous sommes tous les trois de nouveau sur nos v\u00e9los, en route pour Inari. Les successions de lacs parsem\u00e9s de blocs de granit \u00e9merg\u00e9s, nous font penser au c\u00f4tes du Finist\u00e8re, en Bretagne. Alexandra nous dit \u00ab&nbsp;la route est si belle, il faut qu\u2019on prenne une photo au prochain lac&nbsp;!\u00bb. Pause suivante, nous rencontrons un groupe de personnes contemplant le paysage. Un homme en chemise \u00e0 carreaux et bretelles, courb\u00e9 par l\u2019\u00e2ge, nous demande d\u2019o\u00f9 l\u2019on vient et ajoute aussit\u00f4t&nbsp;: \u00ab&nbsp;Moi, je suis d\u2019ici&nbsp;\u00bb. Nous entamons la conversation, et au bout d\u2019un moment, il fait l\u2019aller-retour au coffre de sa voiture et revient avec un livre dans les mains. Ce sont ses m\u00e9moires, illustr\u00e9es de ses dessins \u00e0 l\u2019encre et de photos d\u2019un autre si\u00e8cle. Cet homme a connu une brillante carri\u00e8re d\u2019ing\u00e9nieur civil, et a travaill\u00e9 en Indon\u00e9sie, en Egypte, en Iran. Aventurier audacieux, il a navigu\u00e9 en cano\u00eb des Iles Lofoten (Norv\u00e8ge) jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Inari&nbsp;! Sur une des pages qu\u2019il feuillette pour nous, on le reconna\u00eet, jeune, faire face aux machines pr\u00eates \u00e0 abattre une for\u00eat. C\u2019est ainsi que nous avons bri\u00e8vement aper\u00e7u ce qu\u2019est devenu apr\u00e8s tant d\u2019aventures Harald Helander, activiste finlandais ayant quitt\u00e9 sa carri\u00e8re pour revenir \u00e0 ses racines et se d\u00e9dier \u00e0 la protection du patrimoine naturel de Laponie. Parmi ses luttes&nbsp;: les anciennes for\u00eats de Laponie, le R\u00e9servoir de Vuoto, et la lac d\u2019Inari, le plus grand au-del\u00e0 du cercle polaire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-10 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2440\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_231625_953-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2440\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_231625_953-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_231625_953-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_231625_953-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_231625_953-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_231625_953-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_231625_953-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_231625_953-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1007\" height=\"1007\" data-id=\"2438\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_230549_876.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2438\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_230549_876.webp 1007w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_230549_876-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_230549_876-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_230549_876-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1007px) 100vw, 1007px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"2439\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_230549_918.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2439\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_230549_918.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_230549_918-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_230549_918-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_230549_918-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220610_230549_918-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"512\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_132437-1024x512.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2448\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_132437-1024x512.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_132437-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_132437-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_132437-1536x768.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_132437-2048x1024.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le paysage d\u00e9file sous nous roues&nbsp;: de plus en plus d\u2019enrochements et d\u2019espaces d\u00e9gag\u00e9s, sans arbres. On croise beaucoup de rennes avant d\u2019arriver au pied d\u2019une grande tour d\u2019observation ornithologique. L\u2019escalier d\u2019acc\u00e8s \u00e0 la tour en bois est raide et vertigineux. En haut, un homme est d\u00e9j\u00e0 en place avec sa longue-vue, les yeux dans les jumelles qu\u2019il baisse \u00e0 notre arriv\u00e9e. \u00ab&nbsp;Any interesting birds&nbsp;?&nbsp;\u00bb s\u2019enquiert Marine. Il lui dresse la liste des esp\u00e8ces observ\u00e9es avec un accent tr\u00e8s anglais et lui demande en retour si le Durbec des sapins et le Bruant rustique font partie de celles qu\u2019on a observ\u00e9es. \u00ab&nbsp;Pas encore&nbsp;\u00bb. Puis il nous montre quelques photos prises pendant son s\u00e9jour en Finlande en digiscopie (appareil photo coupl\u00e9 \u00e0 la longue-vue)&nbsp;: un \u00e9lan, des Jaseurs bor\u00e9aux, un m\u00e2le de Bruant nain, des Sizerins flamm\u00e9s\u2026 On entend justement les sizerins se rapprocher&nbsp;! Un peu plus tard, nous observons une femelle de Busard des roseaux longer une ligne d\u2019arbre entre deux eaux. Et c\u2019est la f\u00eate pour les B\u00e9cassines des marais. Elles sont nombreuses \u00e0 danser dans le ciel ce soir. Leur chor\u00e9graphie&nbsp;? Un vol en zigzag pour prendre de la hauteur suivi d\u2019un piqu\u00e9 qui fait vibrer les plumes de la queue&nbsp;; ce qui produit un son chevrotant que l\u2019on pourrait assimiler \u00e0 celui d\u2019un gros insectes. \u00ab&nbsp;Brrzzzzzz&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-11 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1939\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2400\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180202-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180202-2-scaled.jpg 1939w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180202-2-227x300.jpg 227w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180202-2-776x1024.jpg 776w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180202-2-768x1014.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180202-2-1164x1536.jpg 1164w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180202-2-1551x2048.jpg 1551w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1939px) 100vw, 1939px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1970\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2393\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170912-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2393\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170912-2-scaled.jpg 1970w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170912-2-231x300.jpg 231w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170912-2-788x1024.jpg 788w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170912-2-768x998.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170912-2-1182x1536.jpg 1182w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170912-2-1576x2048.jpg 1576w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1970px) 100vw, 1970px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2396\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170944-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2396\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170944-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170944-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170944-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170944-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170944-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170944-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170944-2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Sizerin flamm\u00e9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2399\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180190-3-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2399\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180190-3-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180190-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180190-3-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180190-3-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180190-3-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180190-3-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180190-3-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">B\u00e9cassine des marais<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1751\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2397\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170977-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2397\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170977-2-scaled.jpg 1751w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170977-2-205x300.jpg 205w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170977-2-700x1024.jpg 700w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170977-2-768x1123.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170977-2-1050x1536.jpg 1050w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170977-2-1401x2048.jpg 1401w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1751px) 100vw, 1751px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1765\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2395\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170927-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2395\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170927-scaled.jpg 1765w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170927-207x300.jpg 207w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170927-706x1024.jpg 706w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170927-768x1114.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170927-1059x1536.jpg 1059w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170927-1412x2048.jpg 1412w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1765px) 100vw, 1765px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1677\" data-id=\"2394\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170914-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170914-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170914-300x196.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170914-1024x671.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170914-768x503.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170914-1536x1006.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170914-2048x1341.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-12 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2409\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180327-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2409\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180327-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180327-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180327-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180327-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180327-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180327-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180327-2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2408\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180326-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2408\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180326-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180326-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180326-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180326-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180326-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180326-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180326-2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous installons le camp \u00e0 proximit\u00e9, derri\u00e8re une haie d\u2019arbres, \u00e0 l\u2019abri des regards. Gabriel est r\u00e9veill\u00e9 \u00e0 plusieurs reprises par un oiseau qu\u2019il ne reconna\u00eet pas. Il se l\u00e8ve trois \u00e0 quatre fois pour aller le voir car il chante tout pr\u00e8s de la tente. Le matin, en faisant sa toilette, il r\u00e9ussit \u00e0 le prendre en photo. C\u2019est le Bruant des roseaux, que l\u2019on renomme \u00ab&nbsp;Bruyant&nbsp;\u00bb des roseaux pour avoir chant\u00e9 \u00e0 tue-t\u00eate de 23h \u00e0 6h du matin. Il est temps de plier. Derni\u00e8re ascension \u00e0 la tour d\u2019observation avant le d\u00e9part. Apr\u00e8s quelques kilom\u00e8tres, nous nous trouvons \u00e0 une bifurcation cruciale&nbsp;: nous quittons enfin la route E75 (que nous suivons depuis deux semaines) et empruntons maintenant la route 92 en direction de Kirkenes, ville du Sud du Varanger. C\u2019est un itin\u00e9raire secondaire, sans commerce avant la zone frontali\u00e8re, \u00e0 trois jours de v\u00e9lo. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-13 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2398\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170994-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2398\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170994-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170994-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170994-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170994-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170994-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170994-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1170994-2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Bruant des roseaux<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1822\" data-id=\"2441\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_111432-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2441\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_111432-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_111432-300x214.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_111432-1024x729.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_111432-768x547.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_111432-1536x1093.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_111432-2048x1458.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2443\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_203855-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2443\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_203855-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_203855-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_203855-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_203855-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_203855-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_203855-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_203855-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1318\" data-id=\"2442\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_190539-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2442\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_190539-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_190539-300x154.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_190539-1024x527.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_190539-768x395.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_190539-1536x791.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220611_190539-2048x1055.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ce soir, nous devrons utiliser le filtre \u00e0 eau pour la premi\u00e8re fois, \u00e0 d\u00e9faut d\u2019avoir pu trouver un point d\u2019eau potable. Le bivouac que nous trouvons est sur le bord d\u2019un lac pr\u00e8s de Pekkala. Il fait encore assez chaud pour que Alexandra et Marine osent une baignade, puis nous nous retrouvons pr\u00e8s du r\u00e9chaud. La piste qui m\u00e8ne \u00e0 notre campement est jonch\u00e9e de crottes d\u2019\u00e9lan&nbsp;: en verra-t-on cette nuit&nbsp;? Nous entendons bri\u00e8vement le chant de la B\u00e9cassine sourde avant de nous coucher.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-14 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2403\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180268-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2403\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180268-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180268-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180268-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180268-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180268-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180268-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180268-2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Jaseur bor\u00e9al<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2404\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180281-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2404\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180281-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180281-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180281-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180281-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180281-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180281-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">M\u00e9sange lapone<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2402\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180234-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2402\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180234-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180234-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180234-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180234-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180234-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180234-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180234-2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">M\u00e9sange lapone<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dimanche 12 Juin, il a plu dans la nuit. Nous visons le camping de N\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4m\u00f6, \u00e0 71 km. Grosse journ\u00e9e sous la pluie, un vrai crachin breton qui transporte Gabriel dans ses souvenirs de vacances dans le Morbihan chez ses grand-parents. On p\u00e9dale vite, avec une chose en t\u00eate&nbsp;: arriver au camping et prendre une douche chaude.&nbsp;Nous atteignons N\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4m\u00f6 en fin de journ\u00e9e, mais l\u2019on s\u2019arr\u00eate en premier faire quelques courses en vue d\u2019un bon repas. La sup\u00e9rette est extraordinaire, un vrai lieu de vie o\u00f9 l\u2019on prend le caf\u00e9 et o\u00f9 l\u2019on vend de tout&nbsp;: du po\u00eale \u00e0 bois aux pi\u00e8ces de motoneige, de la viande de renne s\u00e9ch\u00e9e aux raquettes anti-moustique. Nous suivons les panneaux signalant le camping, trop contents d\u2019arriver. Mais c\u2019est \u00e9trange, le signe \u00ab&nbsp;caravane&nbsp;\u00bb est barr\u00e9 sur les panneaux et le lieu est d\u00e9sert\u2026 La r\u00e9ception est ferm\u00e9e, nous sommes tous les trois d\u00e9pit\u00e9s car nous avons compris que ce camping n\u2019existe plus. Pas de douche ce soir. Une femme sort de l\u2019int\u00e9rieur du b\u00e2timent les bras charg\u00e9s de caisses de pelotes de laine. Elle nous lance froidement \u00ab&nbsp;ferm\u00e9 le weekend&nbsp;\u00bb et ne s\u2019arr\u00eate m\u00eame pas. Nous envisageons le plan B&nbsp;: retourner en arri\u00e8re sur le terrain d\u2019une vieille maison abandonn\u00e9e, aper\u00e7ue 3 km en amont. Pendant notre repas, les moustiques s\u2019invitent par centaines. C\u2019est la premi\u00e8re fois qu\u2019ils sont aussi nombreux \u00e0 nous attaquer et nous ne tardons pas \u00e0 nous r\u00e9fugier dans les tentes. A l\u2019int\u00e9rieur de la moustiquaire, nous sommes maintenant guett\u00e9s par une centaine de paires d\u2019yeux, attir\u00e9 par notre chaleur. Nous nous endormons dans le bourdonnement des nuages de moustiques. Le lendemain matin, nous \u00e9courtons notre caf\u00e9 car ils sont trop virulents.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-15 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2453\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_193652-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_193652-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_193652-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_193652-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_193652-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_193652-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_193652-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_193652-2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2449\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_133747-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2449\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_133747-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_133747-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_133747-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_133747-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_133747-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_133747-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_133747-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1703\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2405\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180288-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2405\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180288-2-scaled.jpg 1703w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180288-2-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180288-2-681x1024.jpg 681w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180288-2-768x1154.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180288-2-1022x1536.jpg 1022w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180288-2-1362x2048.jpg 1362w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1703px) 100vw, 1703px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1691\" data-id=\"2411\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180334-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2411\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180334-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180334-300x198.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180334-1024x676.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180334-768x507.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180334-1536x1014.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180334-2048x1352.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1699\" data-id=\"2412\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180343-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2412\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180343-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180343-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180343-1024x680.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180343-768x510.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180343-1536x1020.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180343-2048x1360.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1661\" data-id=\"2406\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180293-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2406\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180293-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180293-300x195.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180293-1024x665.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180293-768x498.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180293-1536x997.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180293-2048x1329.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1689\" data-id=\"2407\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180295-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2407\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180295-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180295-300x198.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180295-1024x675.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180295-768x507.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180295-1536x1013.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1180295-2048x1351.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" data-id=\"2470\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220612_161037619-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2470\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220612_161037619-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220612_161037619-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220612_161037619-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220612_161037619-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220612_161037619-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/PXL_20220612_161037619-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"2454\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_210823_031.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2454\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_210823_031.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_210823_031-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_210823_031-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_210823_031-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/IMG_20220612_210823_031-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Lundi 13 Juin. Aujourd\u2019hui nous f\u00eatons deux \u00e9v\u00e9nements&nbsp;: le passage de la fronti\u00e8re norv\u00e9gienne et l\u2019anniversaire d\u2019Alexandra&nbsp;! S\u00e9ance photo sur cette ligne imaginaire mat\u00e9rialis\u00e9e par un passage anti-b\u00e9tail et des panneaux en plusieurs langues. Nous posons nos sacoches 9km plus loin, au premier camping norv\u00e9gien de Neiden. Les trois cyclistes se pr\u00e9cipitent alors \u00e0 la douche et sur la machine \u00e0 laver. Nous passons un dernier apr\u00e8s-midi ensemble, car Alexandra reprend la route vers 20h, en direction de Kirkenes o\u00f9 elle prendra le bateau jusqu\u2019au Cap Nord. En ce qui nous concerne, nous y resterons 3 nuits pour prendre le temps de r\u00e9diger nos deux \u00e9pisodes finlandais et reprendre des forces avant la P\u00e9ninsule du Varanger.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1655309942455-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2522\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1655309942455-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1655309942455-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1655309942455-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1655309942455-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/1655309942455-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Le ciel est magnifique au-dessus du Kota, les petits cumulus sont de bonne augure pour le reste de la journ\u00e9e. Nous roulons assez vite et croisons quelques rennes, avant de voir au loin deux silhouettes famili\u00e8res arr\u00eat\u00e9es au bord de la route&nbsp;: des cyclistes-\u00e0-sacoches&nbsp;! Un couple en voyage de noces, de Berlin aussi, qui font [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2489","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2489","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2489"}],"version-history":[{"count":43,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2489\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8587,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2489\/revisions\/8587"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2489"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2489"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2489"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}