{"id":3031,"date":"2022-07-15T14:30:18","date_gmt":"2022-07-15T12:30:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/?p=3031"},"modified":"2026-03-04T15:45:25","modified_gmt":"2026-03-04T14:45:25","slug":"16-neiden-vardo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/?p=3031","title":{"rendered":"16 &#8211; Neiden > Vard\u00f8 (km 5260 &#8211; km 5787)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n        <div id=\"map_ol3js_1\"\n       class=\"osm-map-container undefined\"\n             data-map_name=\"undefined\"\n             data-map=\"map_ol3js_1\"\n             data-autoshow=\"no\"\n             style=\"width:100%;\n                    max-width:100%;\n                    height:450px;\n                    display:block;\n                    overflow:hidden;\n                    border:thin solid blue;\">\n          <div id=\"map_ol3js_1_popup\" class=\"ol-popup\">\n            <a href=\"#\" id=\"map_ol3js_1_popup-closer\" class=\"ol-popup-closer\"><\/a>\n            <div id=\"map_ol3js_1_popup-content\"><\/div>\n          <\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    \n\n\t\t\t\t<script type=\"text\/javascript\">\n          translations['openlayer'] = \"open layer\";\n          translations['openlayerAtStartup'] = \"open layer at startup\";\n          translations['generateLink'] = \"link to this map with opened layers\";\n          translations['shortDescription'] = \"short description\";\n          translations['generatedShortCode'] = \"to get a text control link paste this code in your wordpress editor\";\n          translations['closeLayer'] = \"close layer\";\n          translations['cantGenerateLink'] = \"put this string in the existing map short code to control this map\";\n\t\t\t  <\/script>\n\n\n\t\t\t  <script type=\"text\/javascript\">\n\t\t\t  vectorM['map_ol3js_1'] = [];\n\t        \n        var raster = getTileLayer(\"osm\",\"NoKey\");\t\t\t\n\n\t\t\t  var map_ol3js_1 = new ol.Map({\n\t\t\t\tinteractions: ol.interaction.defaults.defaults({mouseWheelZoom:false}),\n\t\t\t\tlayers: [raster],\n\t\t\t\ttarget: \"map_ol3js_1\",\n\t\t\t\tview: new ol.View({\n\t\t\t\t  center: ol.proj.transform([6.378,58.213], \"EPSG:4326\", \"EPSG:3857\"),\n\t\t\t\t  zoom: 9\n\t\t\t\t})\n\t\t\t  });\n\t\t\t  \n    var style_map_ol3js_1_0 = {\n      \"Point\": [new ol.style.Style({\n\n          image: new ol.style.Icon({\n            anchor: [0.5, 41],\n            anchorXUnits: \"fraction\",\n            anchorYUnits: \"pixels\",\n            opacity: 0.75,\n            src: \"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/osm\/icons\/mic_red_pinother_02.png\"\n          })\n      })],\n\n      \"LineString\": [new ol.style.Style({\n        stroke: new ol.style.Stroke({\n          color: \"red\",\n          width: 8\n        })\n      })],\n      \"MultiLineString\": [new ol.style.Style({\n        stroke: new ol.style.Stroke({\n          color: \"red\",\n          width: 4\n        })\n      })]\n    };\n\t\t  var vectorL0 = new ol.layer.Vector({\n\t\t\t\tsource: new ol.source.Vector({\n\t\t\t\turl:\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/GPX\/GPX16.gpx\",\n\t\t\t\tformat: new ol.format.GPX({\n\t\t\t\t\textractStyles: false\n\t\t\t\t})\n\t\t\t}),\n\t\t\tzIndex: 92,\n\t\t\tstyle: function(feature, resolution) {return style_map_ol3js_1_0[feature.getGeometry().getType()];}\n\t\t  });\n\t\t  map_ol3js_1.addLayer(vectorL0);\n      var extension1 = ol.extent.createEmpty();\n      var curZoom1 = map_ol3js_1.getView().getZoom();\n\n      map_ol3js_1.getLayers().forEach(function(layer){\n         if(!layer.get(\"id\")) {     \n            layer.once(\"change\", function(e){\n               ol.extent.extend(extension1, (layer.getSource().getExtent()));\n               map_ol3js_1.getView().fit(extension1, {padding: [50, 50, 50, 50]});\n            });\n         }\n      });\n\n    \naddControls2Map(map_ol3js_1,0,1,3,0,5,6,7,0,1);\nosm_addPopupClickhandler(map_ol3js_1,  \"map_ol3js_1\"); \nosm_addMouseHover(map_ol3js_1); <\/script>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:30px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Cet \u00e9pisode commence \u00e0 Neiden, petit village de Norv\u00e8ge, juste apr\u00e8s la fronti\u00e8re finlandaise o\u00f9 nous avons pass\u00e9 quelques jours au camping pour recharger les batteries.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Jeudi 16 Juin, nous partons \u00e0 l\u2019assaut du Varanger. Les compteurs, enclench\u00e9s \u00e0 Boidans (dans le diois) \u00e0 la date du 10 F\u00e9vrier, indiquent aujourd\u2019hui 5300 km. Apr\u00e8s l\u2019\u00e9quinoxe de printemps \u00e0 Br\u00eame en famille et avec les oies sauvages, nous visons \u00e0 pr\u00e9sent le solstice d\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 sur la r\u00e9gion la plus septentrionale du parcours, dans un condens\u00e9 de biotopes unique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le Varanger est la derni\u00e8re des p\u00e9ninsules qui d\u00e9coupent la c\u00f4te de la Norv\u00e8ge dans la mer de Barents. Le pr\u00e9cieux biotope de toundra arctique, \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur des terres, accueille un grand nombre d\u2019oiseaux pendant la p\u00e9riode de reproduction. Une des particularit\u00e9s de cette p\u00e9ninsule r\u00e9side dans le fait que le fjord est un des rares orient\u00e9s \u00e0 l\u2019Est, et peu profond. Cela en fait une place de choix pour un grand nombres d\u2019esp\u00e8ces, comme les canards arctiques, et les alcid\u00e9s (famille des pingouins et apparent\u00e9s). C\u2019est une destination pris\u00e9e par les ornithologues pour assister \u00e0 l\u2019hivernage des milliers d\u2019eiders et autres esp\u00e8ces, et au printemps pour l\u2019arriv\u00e9e des migrateurs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous sommes maintenant si proches d\u2019une de nos plus importantes \u00e9tapes du voyage que l\u2019on oublie dans l\u2019excitation la pluie, les 6 degr\u00e9s du thermom\u00e8tre, et les contingences t\u00e9l\u00e9phoniques (nous sommes priv\u00e9s de forfait depuis le 11 Juin). Nous sommes plus que par\u00e9s pour affronter ces conditions, en \u00ab&nbsp;tenue danoise&nbsp;\u00bb, la tenue de pluie int\u00e9grale qui avait fait ses preuves en Avril, dans les temp\u00eates de gr\u00eale et de neige sur la c\u00f4te Ouest du Danemark. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous descendons le cours de la rivi\u00e8re N\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4m\u00f6joki (prononcer \u00ab\u00a0n\u00e8h\u00e8t\u00e8meu-joki\u00a0\u00bb) jusqu\u2019\u00e0 la franchir six kilom\u00e8tres plus loin pour amorcer une mont\u00e9e jusqu\u2019\u00e0 un curieux b\u00e2timent blanc qui domine la vall\u00e9e. Bien trop couverts pour cette premi\u00e8re c\u00f4te, nous sommes soulag\u00e9s d&rsquo;y faire une pause et laissons nos v\u00e9los contre un banc de l\u2019entr\u00e9e. Notre curiosit\u00e9 d\u2019architectes pour ce b\u00e2timent contemporain, nous pousse \u00e0 ouvrir la porte du mus\u00e9e des Samis. Nous y d\u00e9couvrons la riche culture de ce peuple : leur savoir-faire, l\u2019artisanat, leur spiritualit\u00e9, leur langue, etc. Apr\u00e8s tant de pression ext\u00e9rieure sur leur territoire depuis le Moyen-\u00e2ge, l\u2019activit\u00e9 intense des missionnaires chr\u00e9tiens \u00e0 partir du 17\u00e8me si\u00e8cle, et la progressive uniformisation culturelle venue d&rsquo;ailleurs&nbsp;; ce peuple autochtone ancestral est aujourd&rsquo;hui r\u00e9duit \u00e0 peu de chose. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"3053\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_330.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3053\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_330.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_330-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_330-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_330-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_330-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">1<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"3054\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_544.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3054\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_544.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_544-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_544-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_544-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_544-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">2<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"3055\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_630.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3055\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_630.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_630-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_630-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_630-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_630-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">3<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"3056\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_664.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3056\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_664.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_664-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_664-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_664-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_664-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">4<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"3057\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_709.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3057\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_709.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_709-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_709-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_709-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_709-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">5<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"3058\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_734.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3058\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_734.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_734-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_734-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_734-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_184824_734-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">6<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"inherit-container-width wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<p><strong>1- <\/strong>hame\u00e7ons en os <strong>2- <\/strong>graphie Sami <strong>3-<\/strong> flotteur de filet de p\u00eache en \u00e9corce de bouleau <strong>4-<\/strong> pi\u00e8ces de jeu<strong> 5-<\/strong> r\u00e9cipient en \u00e9corce de bouleau <strong>6- <\/strong>chronologie de la disparition du territoire Sami<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>On reprend les v\u00e9los l&rsquo;esprit mitig\u00e9. Cette visite nous produit le m\u00eame \u00e9merveillement que \u00ab\u00a0Nunavik\u00a0\u00bb, une tr\u00e8s belle exposition de 2016 \u00e0 Grenoble, sur les inuits. Le fil de l&rsquo;exposition termine malheureusement \u00e0 l&rsquo;identique : par le constat d\u00e9solant de l&rsquo;extinction culturelle, toujours pour les m\u00eames raisons. On progresse difficilement, coup de p\u00e9dale apr\u00e8s coup de p\u00e9dale, avec le vent de face et le froid qui passe \u00e0 travers les fermetures \u00e9clair. Nous prenons une pause sur une aire de repos o\u00f9 sont stationn\u00e9s des ornithologues, longue-vue d\u00e9ploy\u00e9e, et gros objectif photo braqu\u00e9 sur un busard chassant en vol chaloup\u00e9 sur les marais.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Plus loin, la route est creus\u00e9e dans un granit noir brillant de pluie, \u00e0 la fa\u00e7on d\u2019une porte initiatique qui ouvre sur un nouveau monde. Nos yeux se remplissent des vastes \u00e9tendues rocheuses et de plaines humides, bord\u00e9es de montagnes aux flancs \u00e9croul\u00e9s, o\u00f9 subsistent des n\u00e9v\u00e9s et jaillissent des cascades. On trouve des similitudes avec les massifs de chez nous, les rennes rempla\u00e7ant les vaches des alpages. Et au bout d&rsquo;un virage, \u00e0 l\u2019horizon, nous apercevons les plateaux bleut\u00e9s du Varanger&#8230;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180600-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3105\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180600-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180600-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180600-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180600-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180600-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180600-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180611-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3108\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180611-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180611-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180611-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180611-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180611-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180611-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">   <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180633-1-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3110\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180633-1-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180633-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180633-1-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180633-1-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180633-1-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180633-1-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Une Buse pattue vole en surplace au fond du fjord de Bug\u00f8y, notre premier contact avec la mer. Le terrain est escarp\u00e9 et les surfaces enherb\u00e9es et plates qui paraissent id\u00e9ales pour bivouaquer sont en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 des zones humides. Au terme de trois tentatives, dont une o\u00f9 Marine ach\u00e8ve de tremper ses chaussures, nous plantons la tente au bord d\u2019une piste, sur un \u00e9largissement en graviers \u00e0 l\u2019abri du vent, bien fatigu\u00e9s. La pluie tombe quelques instants plus tard, nous prenons le repas \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur et nous endormons comme des canards, la t\u00eate dans le duvet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_182229-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3147\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_182229-scaled.jpg 1920w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_182229-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_182229-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_182229-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220616_182229-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">   <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>La fatigue de la veille prolonge notre sommeil jusqu\u2019\u00e0 9h30. C\u2019est rarissime dans notre rythme de cyclo-voyageurs, toujours pr\u00eats \u00e0 d\u00e9camper tr\u00e8s t\u00f4t. Un pick-up s\u2019arr\u00eate devant la tente, la vitre se baisse, et un homme s\u2019y accoude&nbsp;: \u00ab&nbsp;Hey guys&nbsp;! Where are you from&nbsp;?&nbsp;\u00bb. Il s\u2019esclaffe quand on lui r\u00e9pond qu\u2019on est venus de France avec nos petits v\u00e9los. Il les montre du doigt, interloqu\u00e9. \u00ab&nbsp;You-are-crazy&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb dit-il en d\u00e9tachant bien chaque mot. Il repart tout sourire en nous faisant un geste de la main dans son r\u00e9troviseur. Ce n\u2019est pas la premi\u00e8re fois qu\u2019on nous prend pour des fous, mais \u00e7a nous amuse. Petits points sur la carte que nous sommes, nous traversons des prairies brout\u00e9es par des troupeaux de rennes, et des chaos de blocs gigantesques. Du haut de l\u2019un d\u2019entre eux, nous distinguons de mieux en mieux notre futur terrain d\u2019exploration. L\u2019horizon est sombre mais les plateaux enneig\u00e9s du Varanger s\u2019en d\u00e9tachent dans cette faible lumi\u00e8re. Cascades, lacs, roches noires, v\u00e9g\u00e9tation rabougrie caract\u00e9risent cette travers\u00e9e. Le vent froid nous pousse vers un abribus pour reprendre des forces \u00e0 la hauteur de la bifurcation qui m\u00e8ne \u00e0 Bug\u00f8ynes. L\u2019abri a manifestement servi de pissoti\u00e8re\u2026 mais cela n\u2019a pas d\u2019importance. Sans nous en rendre compte, nous venons de franchir le symbolique 70\u00e8me degr\u00e9 de latitude Nord. On s\u2019en souviendra&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180651-1-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3106\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180651-1-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180651-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180651-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180651-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180651-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180651-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180647-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3107\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180647-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180647-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180647-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180647-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180647-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180647-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>On ne compte plus les bus et les caravanes qui ralentissent sur ce croisement, install\u00e9s \u00e0 m\u00eame le sol sur une couverture de survie parsem\u00e9e de notre bazar. Un des v\u00e9hicules nous tape \u00e0 l\u2019oeil, c\u2019est un camion kaki que nous retrouvons \u00e0 l\u2019aire de repos suivante. Gabriel s\u2019avance, curieux, vers ce magnifique Iveco Magirus tout terrain, et entame la discussion avec le chauffeur. Il ne tarde pas \u00e0 nous inviter \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur, sa femme pr\u00e9pare d\u00e9j\u00e0 deux caf\u00e9s suppl\u00e9mentaires et des cookies. Nous passons une bonne heure en compagnie de ce couple de retrait\u00e9s allemands baroudeurs, dans la chaleur de l\u2019habitacle, avec vue sur le fjord du Varanger et les \u00e9levages de saumons. Depuis qu\u2019ils se connaissent, ils n\u2019ont jamais perdu une occasion de passer leur vacances \u00e0 voyager 4&#215;4, surtout en Afrique. Cette rencontre nous remplit de joie et d\u2019envies de nouveaux projets d\u2019itin\u00e9rance. Ils nous d\u00e9passent plus loin avec des klaxon d\u2019encouragement dans une belle c\u00f4te.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1901\" data-id=\"2840\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220617_165208-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2840\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220617_165208-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220617_165208-300x223.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220617_165208-1024x760.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220617_165208-768x570.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220617_165208-1536x1140.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220617_165208-2048x1520.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"> <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>La route touche le fjord, dans la anse de Gandvik et nous roulons maintenant avec la mer \u00e0 tribord. Nous apercevons les premiers pygargues \u00e0 queue blanche juste apr\u00e8s. Que demander de plus comme signe de bienvenue, que cet \u00e9norme rapace embl\u00e9matique de la Norv\u00e8ge&nbsp;? Nous avons tout juste le temps d\u2019arr\u00eater nos v\u00e9los pour les photographier avant de les voir dispara\u00eetre derri\u00e8re le relief.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1678\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180753-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2723\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180753-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180753-2-300x197.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180753-2-1024x671.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180753-2-768x503.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180753-2-1536x1007.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180753-2-2048x1343.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pygargue \u00e0 queue blanche<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180746-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2722\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180746-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180746-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180746-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180746-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180746-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180746-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  Pygargue \u00e0 queue blanche<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180763-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2724\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180763-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180763-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180763-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180763-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180763-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180763-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190167-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2748\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190167-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190167-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190167-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190167-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190167-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190167-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190163-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2746\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190163-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190163-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190163-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190163-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190163-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190163-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190172-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2749\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190172-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190172-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190172-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190172-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190172-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190172-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190178-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2751\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190178-2.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190178-2-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190178-2-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190178-2-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190178-2-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Pour ce soir, nous \u00e9lisons domicile sur le versant Nord du fjord du Varanger en contrebas de la route \u00e0 Sorbemej\u00e4rvi, juste en face d\u2019un petit \u00eelot de granit rose. En scrutant l\u2019autre rive, bien plus habit\u00e9e, on essaie de rep\u00e9rer les points de passage \u00e0 venir. Nous arrimons la tente avec la totalit\u00e9 des haubans par pr\u00e9caution, et le sommeil nous rattrape dans les claquements de toile. En pleine nuit (mais en plein jour), Marine se l\u00e8ve et observe les effets de lumi\u00e8re \u00e9blouissants \u00e0 la surface de la mer. Les Harles bi\u00e8vres et Eiders \u00e0 duvet ont constitu\u00e9 un dortoir sur la berge abrit\u00e9e du petit \u00eelot. Ils ont disparu le lendemain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180782-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2728\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180782-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180782-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180782-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180782-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180782-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180782-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180778-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2727\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180778-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180778-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180778-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180778-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180778-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180778-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180689-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2720\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180689-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180689-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180689-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180689-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180689-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180689-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180767-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2725\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180767-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180767-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180767-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180767-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180767-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180767-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Samedi 18 Juin marque le moment o\u00f9 nous passons sur le versant Sud du fjord. Il fait froid et nuageux. Nous avan\u00e7ons doucement en raison d\u2019arr\u00eats photo fr\u00e9quents (on devrait l\u2019indiquer sur une plaque \u00e0 l\u2019arri\u00e8re de nos v\u00e9los d\u2019ailleurs !). Hirondelles de rivage, mouettes pygm\u00e9es, Huitriers pie dans le delta de la Nyelva puis brochette de pygargues quelques tours de roue plus loin\u2026 Un oiseau sombre se pose au sol et replie prestement ses ailes. C\u2019est un Labbe parasite&nbsp;! Nous stoppons nos montures pour tenter une approche discr\u00e8te et rapporter des photos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190145-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3099\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190145-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190145-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190145-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190145-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190145-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190145-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Labbe parasite<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1685\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190103-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2742\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190103-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190103-300x197.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190103-1024x674.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190103-768x505.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190103-1536x1011.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190103-2048x1348.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180835-2-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2736\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180835-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180835-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180835-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180835-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1180835-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Labbe parasite   <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Petit d\u00e9tour de la route principale \u00e0 Karlebotn o\u00f9 nous avons rep\u00e9r\u00e9 un abri sur la carte. On y d\u00e9jeune prot\u00e9g\u00e9s du vent, tournant le dos \u00e0 la plage d\u00e9gag\u00e9e par la mar\u00e9e. Plusieurs pygargues sont dress\u00e9s sur les rochers et des Huitriers pie crient en vol au-dessus des maisons du village. Nous encha\u00eenons avec la r\u00e9serve de Varangerbotn, \u00ab&nbsp;au fond-du-fond&nbsp;\u00bb du fjord. Malheureusement, des travaux de terrassement en cours ne nous permettent pas de faire de belles observations si ce n\u2019est un Combattant vari\u00e9 tout seul, et cinq pygargues pos\u00e9s au loin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2001\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220618_162857-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3102\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220618_162857-1.jpg 2001w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220618_162857-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220618_162857-1-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220618_162857-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220618_162857-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220618_162857-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2001px) 100vw, 2001px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Pause ravitaillement dans la sup\u00e9rette du coin, au carrefour des routes du Cap Nord et celle du Varanger. Ce sont nos premi\u00e8res courses en Norv\u00e8ge, et les prix sont si \u00e9lev\u00e9s qu\u2019on se demande bien combien de temps on arrivera \u00e0 rester dans ce pays&nbsp;! Les prix ont quasiment doubl\u00e9 par rapport \u00e0 la Finlande. Nous franchissons officiellement le panneau \u00ab&nbsp;Varanger&nbsp;\u00bb, non sans fiert\u00e9, et gagnons une aire de repos tout confort pour la nuit. Nous plantons la tente en contrebas, le plus discr\u00e8tement possible et observons \u00e0 mar\u00e9e basse, un couple d\u2019Huitriers pie suivis de leur prog\u00e9niture tout en duvet. Les adultes d\u00e9posent de petits mollusques devant les petits qui se pr\u00e9cipitent pour les avaler. Les parents sont en alerte au moindre d\u00e9rangement&nbsp;: les Go\u00e9lands, les chiens, les promeneurs, les p\u00eacheurs du soir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190243-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2752\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190243-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190243-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190243-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190243-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190243-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190243-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190318-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2758\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190318-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190318-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190318-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190318-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190318-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190318-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Huitriers pie<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190299-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2756\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190299-2.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190299-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190299-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190299-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190299-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190299-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Le lendemain, \u00e0 mar\u00e9e haute, les adultes sont toujours l\u00e0. On est rassur\u00e9s de voir les deux petits sortir leur t\u00eate des cailloux quelques instants plus tard. Au moment de reprendre la route, il commence \u00e0 pleuvoir&nbsp;: on refait chauffer de l\u2019eau, bien \u00e0 l\u2019abri. Un 4&#215;4 Defender s\u2019arr\u00eate sur le parking. Un couple en sort rapidement, avec un chien en laisse. Il vient directement vers nous, la queue battante. \u00ab&nbsp;Elle veut juste dire bonjour&nbsp;\u00bb, semble s\u2019excuser sa ma\u00eetresse&nbsp;\u00bb. \u00ab&nbsp;Aucun probl\u00e8me&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb. La chienne est aussit\u00f4t lib\u00e9r\u00e9e et nous nous retrouvons avec une adorable \u00ab\u00a0Nala\u00a0\u00bb dans les pattes. Nous rentrons ainsi en contact avec Hege, et son compagnon Sidney avec qui nous prolongeons longuement notre caf\u00e9 en parlant de nos projets de voyage respectifs. Nous passons un excellent moment en leur compagnie puis nous les retrouvons plus tard devant l\u2019\u00e9glise de Nesseby, situ\u00e9e sur une presqu\u2019\u00eele qui se trouve \u00eatre une petite r\u00e9serve naturelle. Une \u00e9trange ossature est dress\u00e9e sur le bord de la baie. On remarquera ces s\u00e9choirs \u00e0 poissons, tout au long de l\u2019unique route du Varanger.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190388-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2760\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190388-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190388-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190388-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190388-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190388-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190388-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Les v\u00e9los charg\u00e9s intriguent les visiteurs&nbsp;: un norv\u00e9gien tr\u00e8s enthousiaste, un couple de hollandais \u00e0 qui Marine fait une petite initiation ornithologique, et des alsaciens naturalistes venus en camping-car. C\u2019est la premi\u00e8re journ\u00e9e o\u00f9 l\u2019on discute avec autant de monde, la saison commence. Une heure plus tard, nous partons explorer la r\u00e9serve. Le crachin ne nous emp\u00eache pas de l\u2019arpenter \u00e0 pied et d\u2019observer \u00e0 la longue-vue les oiseaux \u00e0 mar\u00e9e basse&nbsp;: une vingtaine de barges rousses, des tadornes de Belon, des grands gravelots, des eiders \u00e0 duvet\u2026 le temps s\u2019est l\u00e9g\u00e8rement am\u00e9lior\u00e9 mais l\u2019on s\u2019est refroidis pendant le pique-nique. Dans ces cas-l\u00e0, la meilleure chose \u00e0 faire est de p\u00e9daler.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>On roule jusqu\u2019\u00e0 notre prochain lieu pour la nuit. Mais la r\u00e9serve de Mortensnes est interdite aux campeurs, et pour cause, c\u2019est un ancien \u00e9tablissement des Samis, sanctuaris\u00e9 en mus\u00e9e en plein air. Il faut donc pousser un peu plus loin. Ce qui semble \u00eatre une ancienne aire de repos reconquise par la v\u00e9g\u00e9tation, condamn\u00e9e aux voitures par de gros foss\u00e9s, fait parfaitement l\u2019affaire. Elle est surplomb\u00e9e par des m\u00e9galithes pos\u00e9s en \u00e9quilibre tels des dolmens. On s\u2019en rapproche, en marchant sur des d\u00e9bris de pierre effrit\u00e9s qui crissent comme de la vaisselle cass\u00e9e sous nos pas. Marine se perche sur le plus gros bloc. La vue donne le vertige, au-dessus d\u2019une falaise qui tombe \u00e0 pic dans la mer. Au moment de \u00ab&nbsp;d\u00eener&nbsp;\u00bb (c\u2019est un grand mot quand on parle de couscous-pois chiches-sauce curry dans des gamelles en inox), nous entendons le chant d\u2019une dr\u00f4le de grive. Inspection aux jumelles, c\u2019est un Merle \u00e0 plastron&nbsp;! Il se repose plusieurs fois sur le m\u00eame arbuste, ce qui nous d\u00e9cide \u00e0 faire un petit aff\u00fbt photo derri\u00e8re un caillou, non concluant. C\u2019est une esp\u00e8ce de merle avec un croissant blanc sur la poitrine, que l\u2019on observe chez nous en montagne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"760\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3148\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220619_191113-1-760x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3148\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220619_191113-1-760x1024.jpg 760w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220619_191113-1-223x300.jpg 223w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220619_191113-1-768x1034.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220619_191113-1-1140x1536.jpg 1140w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220619_191113-1-1520x2048.jpg 1520w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220619_191113-1-scaled.jpg 1901w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3149\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220619_212241-1-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3149\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220619_212241-1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220619_212241-1-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220619_212241-1-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220619_212241-1-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220619_212241-1-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190473-1-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3151\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190473-1-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190473-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190473-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190473-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190473-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190473-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>R\u00e9veil dans les nuages par dix petits degr\u00e9s au-dessus de z\u00e9ro. Les moustiques attaquent quand m\u00eame, pr\u00e9cipitant notre d\u00e9part en direction de Vads\u00f8. Nous faisons une halte de rep\u00e9rage dans un camping o\u00f9 nous pr\u00e9voyons de nous replier au cas o\u00f9 la grosse pluie annonc\u00e9e dans quelques jours se confirmerait. Pause ravitaillement o\u00f9 les prix sont moins prohibitifs qu\u2019\u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e du fjord, ouf&nbsp;! A la sortie du supermarch\u00e9 un cycliste norv\u00e9gien nous aborde. Visage \u00e9maci\u00e9, iris glacial, large sourire. Nous faisons la connaissance avec l\u2019organisateur de Offroad Finnmark, la plus grande course de VTT au monde. 700 km d\u2019une traite (avec deux longues pauses obligatoires n\u00e9anmoins), dans une r\u00e9gion montagneuse tout au Nord de la Norv\u00e8ge. Avis aux fous de VTT (on pense \u00e0 Simon d\u2019Espinasse !), les inscriptions sont ouvertes. \u00ab&nbsp;Vous pourriez y arriver, bien s\u00fbr, mais pas dans les temps&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb nous lance-t-il, amus\u00e9. Les premiers y parviennent en une soixantaine d\u2019heures. On ne tiendrait pas longtemps avec nos v\u00e9los D\u00e9cathlon des ann\u00e9es 90 qui supportent d\u00e9j\u00e0 mal les pistes su\u00e9doises\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous revenons du magasin avec les p\u00e2tisseries \u00e0 la cr\u00e8me que nous avions tant appr\u00e9ci\u00e9es lors d\u2019un pr\u00e9c\u00e9dent voyage en Norv\u00e8ge (de Oslo \u00e0 Bergen \u00e0 v\u00e9lo en 2018). Est-ce qu\u2019on irait pas faire \u00ab&nbsp;fika&nbsp;\u00bb avec \u00e7a \u00e0 l\u2019observatoire du port de Vads\u00f8, au bout de la jet\u00e9e&nbsp;? Nous avons gard\u00e9 de la Su\u00e8de cette habitude qui consiste \u00e0 partager dans l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi un instant g\u00e2teau-caf\u00e9 pour discuter. A vrai dire, on pr\u00e9f\u00e8re se donner plusieurs occasions dans une m\u00eame journ\u00e9e&nbsp;: c\u2019est le principe du Multi-Fika.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190515-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2773\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190515-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190515-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190515-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190515-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190515-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190515-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190518-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2774\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190518-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190518-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190518-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190518-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190518-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190518-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-4 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3222\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220620_153250-2-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3222\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220620_153250-2-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220620_153250-2-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220620_153250-2-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220620_153250-2-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220620_153250-2-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3221\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220620_153818-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3221\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220620_153818-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220620_153818-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220620_153818-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220620_153818-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220620_153818-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous poursuivons la route en direction de Ekker\u00f8y, que nous voulons visiter le lendemain car une belle journ\u00e9e de soleil est annonc\u00e9e pour le solstice d\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9. On p\u00e9dale plus que pr\u00e9vu car les possibilit\u00e9s de bivouac sont rares. Les abords sont escarp\u00e9s, les champs sont cl\u00f4tur\u00e9s. On effraie les moutons, de plus en plus nombreux pr\u00e8s de la route. Ils ne bougent pas quand une voiture passe, en revanche, les v\u00e9los inqui\u00e8tent imm\u00e9diatement les brebis et leurs agneaux puis d\u00e9guerpissent dans un mouvement de panique collectif. Premi\u00e8re tentative infructueuse sur des p\u00e2tures jonch\u00e9es d\u2019\u00e9normes bosses d\u2019herbe, deuxi\u00e8me tentative au pied d\u2019un tas de cailloux pas tr\u00e8s engageant, puis une troisi\u00e8me sur une terrasse naturelle o\u00f9 les sardines ne s\u2019enfoncent pas d&rsquo;un pouce. Nous trouvons finalement le lieu id\u00e9al, en balcon sur la mer. Contre une petite falaise aux strates bien dessin\u00e9es et sur un tapis d\u2019empetrum dont les fruits noirs t\u00e2chent les genoux au moment de planter la tente. Marine descend remplir une bouteille dans le plan d\u2019eau en contrebas. Un Grand gravelot s\u2019approche d\u2019elle avec des cris d\u2019alarme. Elle rebrousse chemin, les petits ne doivent pas \u00eatre loin pour qu\u2019il s\u2019agite comme cela.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190622-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2777\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190622-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190622-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190622-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190622-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190622-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190622-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190630-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2779\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190630-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190630-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190630-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190630-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190630-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190630-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190645-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2782\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190645-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190645-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190645-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190645-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190645-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190645-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190637-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2781\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190637-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190637-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190637-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190637-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190637-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190637-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>21 Juin, jour du solstice d\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9, il fait tr\u00e8s beau. Nous sommes assis au soleil pr\u00e8s de la tente, et des cris de Chevalier gambette se rapprochent. On les entendait hier pr\u00e8s du petit plan d\u2019eau de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la route. Quelques instants plus tard, les cris sont plus forts et nous voyons surgir la t\u00eate de deux \u00e9chassiers du caillou contre lequel nous avions trouv\u00e9 un pare-vent. On se fige, le mug de caf\u00e9 fumant \u00e0 la main, et ne sachant que faire. Prendre l\u2019appareil photo et risquer de les faire fuir, ou bien rester immobiles&nbsp;? On laisse passer le couple devant nous. Ils traversent la piste et rejoignent tranquillement la petite falaise tout en poussant continuellement des cris. Gabriel va chercher en gestes lents l\u2019appareil photo rest\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur, et se poste derri\u00e8re un bloc de pierre. Aux cris des adultes r\u00e9pondent de timides sifflements. Ils ont des poussins&nbsp;! Deux minuscules boules de duvet ternes courent maladroitement en direction de leurs parents. On comprend que les adultes les guident par leurs cris pour les emmener quelque part. Ils ob\u00e9issent avec application, et franchissent difficilement les obstacles que les adultes enjambent de leurs longues pattes orange vif. Ceux-ci s\u2019envolent en quelques coups d\u2019ailes en haut de la petite falaise, cinq ou six m\u00e8tres plus haut. Ils continuent de crier du haut de la corniche et les petits commencent alors une escalade ambitieuse. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-5 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2785\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190709-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2785\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190709-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190709-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190709-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190709-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190709-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190709-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2784\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190684-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2784\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190684-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190684-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190684-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190684-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190684-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190684-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3150\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190713-3-1-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3150\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190713-3-1-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190713-3-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190713-3-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190713-3-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190713-3-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190713-3-1.jpg 1999w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>On les voit glisser sur les cailloux, tomber, rouler pattes en l\u2019air et recommencer assid\u00fbment. Les adultes redescendent r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement comme pour les encourager puis se perchent de nouveau en criant au-dessus d\u2019eux. \u00ab&nbsp;Ils ne vont jamais y arriver&nbsp;\u00bb, souffle Gabriel en se retournant vers Marine. On a envie de leur indiquer un passage bien plus simple,&nbsp;l\u00e0-bas, \u00e0 gauche : la petite falaise se r\u00e9duit jusqu\u2019au sol dans le virage de la piste, une dizaine de m\u00e8tres plus loin. La sc\u00e8ne se r\u00e9p\u00e8te plusieurs fois, jusqu\u2019\u00e0 ce que les parents changent d\u2019itin\u00e9raire, ils partent sur la droite o\u00f9 la falaise est encore plus haute et raide. Ce n\u2019est qu\u2019au bout d\u2019une bonne heure, qu\u2019ils finissent par trouver le bon passage et les cris disparaissent derri\u00e8re le relief. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>C\u2019est souvent le matin au sortir de la tente, que les observations les plus belles ont lieu. Nous sommes discrets, silencieux, et la tente ressemble \u00e0 un gros caillou parmi d\u2019autres. Pour la plupart des photos d\u2019oiseaux, surtout les passereaux (petits oiseaux de la taille d\u2019un moineau), nous attendons qu\u2019ils se rapprochent plut\u00f4t que d\u2019aller vers eux. Nous les photographions \u00e0 cinq ou six pas de distance, sans camouflage, g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement assis par terre au moment des repas. On quitte ce bivouac plein de gratitude pour cette famille de chevaliers gambettes, \u00e0 qui l\u2019on souhaite de faire une belle migration de retour vers le Sud&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La r\u00e9serve de Ekker\u00f8y est \u00e0 moins de dix kilom\u00e8tres. Nous atteignons la presqu\u2019\u00eele par une longue langue de sable blanc, prot\u00e9geant au Sud une anse \u00e0 l\u2019eau turquoise. Les familles d\u2019Eiders \u00e0 duvet avec leurs petits, les Harles bi\u00e8vres et les Sternes arctiques sont les premiers oiseaux \u00e0 nous accueillir dans ce petit port. Nous laissons les v\u00e9los \u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e de la r\u00e9serve, n\u2019emportant avec nous que nos paires de jumelles, la longue-vue, l\u2019enregistreur sonore et l\u2019appareil photo. M\u00eame si la falaise n\u2019est qu\u2019\u00e0 six cents m\u00e8tres, on a toujours une petite appr\u00e9hension lorsque l\u2019on abandonne nos v\u00e9los sans surveillance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-6 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2791\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190754-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2791\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190754-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190754-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190754-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190754-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190754-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190754-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3153\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190745-2-1-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3153\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190745-2-1-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190745-2-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190745-2-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190745-2-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190745-2-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190745-2-1.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Eiders \u00e0 duvet<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3154\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190732-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3154\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190732-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190732-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190732-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190732-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190732-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>La rumeur de la colonie de mouettes tridactyles nous parvient avec le vent, puis l\u2019odeur de poisson m\u00eal\u00e9e aux fientes nous saute aux narines, \u00ab&nbsp;\u00e7a fait partie du jeu&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb nous dit quelqu\u2019un qui revient du pied de la falaise en faisant mine de se pincer le nez. On s\u2019avance \u00e0 notre tour, et levons la t\u00eate \u00e9bahis. \u00ab&nbsp;Combien de milliers&nbsp;?&nbsp;\u00bb. Des dizaines de milliers d\u2019oiseaux accroch\u00e9s \u00e0 la falaise voltigent au-dessus de nos t\u00eates dans un tumulte assourdissant. C\u2019est presque intimidant, on se sent \u00e9trangers au pied de leur ville \u00e0 \u00e9tages.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 wp-block-gallery-7 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2799\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190852-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2799\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190852-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190852-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190852-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190852-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190852-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190852-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Falaise d&rsquo;Ekkeroy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" data-id=\"2795\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190790-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2795\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190790-3.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190790-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190790-3-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190790-3-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190790-3-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190790-3-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1706\" data-id=\"2797\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190823-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2797\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190823-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190823-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190823-2-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190823-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190823-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190823-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2798\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190845-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2798\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190845-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190845-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190845-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190845-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190845-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190845-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>On reconna\u00eet les nids les plus anciens aux strates de nouveaux mat\u00e9riaux apport\u00e9s aux nidifications successives. En effet les mouettes tridactyles sont des oiseaux tr\u00e8s fid\u00e8les \u00e0 leur nid, qu\u2019elles r\u00e9utilisent et entretiennent de saison en saison. Les nids deviennent parfois si hauts, qu\u2019ils tombent, et tout est \u00e0 refaire. Elles pr\u00e9f\u00e8rent d\u2019ailleurs dans ce cas s\u2019approprier celui d\u2019un autre couple, ce qui provoque des bagarres. La plupart des nids contiennent des poussins tout en duvet gris, l&rsquo;air penaud. Certains battent des ailes et commencent \u00e0 prendre beaucoup de place dans cette cuvette d\u2019herbes, de terre et d\u2019algues s\u00e8ches. Gabriel en voit tomber un sous ses yeux. Dans sa chute, il cogne les roches, roule et se retrouve quasiment \u00e0 ses pieds. La petite boule grise met un certain temps pour recouvrer ses esprits, et se met imm\u00e9diatement en qu\u00eate d\u2019un abri dans un trou \u00e0 l\u2019ombre. Les poussins sont nidicoles, c\u2019est \u00e0 dire qu\u2019il restent au nid jusqu\u2019\u00e0 devenir autonome. Les parents le nourriront-ils en dehors du nid qu\u2019il ne retrouvera plus jamais&nbsp;? Ou terminera-t-il dans le bec d\u2019un Faucon de gerfaut&nbsp;? Cette question pr\u00e9occupe encore Gabriel quelques jours plus tard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Quelques guillemots de Tro\u00efl sont visibles au large dans la longue-vue, on verra s\u00fbrement beaucoup de ces petits alcid\u00e9s (famille des pingouins) noir et blanc plus tard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sur le retour, s\u00e9ance photo o\u00f9 Gabriel se fait intimider par une sterne qui vient voler \u00e0 un m\u00e8tre au-dessus de son casque de v\u00e9lo. Il \u00e9tait pourtant rest\u00e9 sur la chauss\u00e9e o\u00f9 passent les voitures. Elle n&rsquo;a pas d\u00fb appr\u00e9cier la tenue de cycliste. Les photos sont floues mais explicites&#8230;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-8 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3157\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190945-2-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3157\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190945-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190945-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190945-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190945-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190945-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3158\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190950-2-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3158\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190950-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190950-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190950-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190950-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190950-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Le mauvais temps se confirme pour demain, nous d\u00e9cidons d\u2019un repli au camping, une trentaine de kilom\u00e8tres en arri\u00e8re. On exp\u00e9die cette portion d\u00e9j\u00e0 travers\u00e9e, sans pause, avec le vent dans le dos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous passons la journ\u00e9e du Mercredi \u00e0 nous reposer et laisser passer le gros \u00e9pisode pluvieux. Marine fait tout de m\u00eame une petite vir\u00e9e \u00e0 v\u00e9lo jusqu\u2019au phare du port, \u00e0 l\u2019observatoire de la rivi\u00e8re juste \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9, puis en haut du village pour observer les oiseaux en fin de journ\u00e9e. Vestre Jakobselv est \u00e0 la limite de la derni\u00e8re zone de for\u00eat du Varanger, avant les c\u00f4tes rocailleuses et la toundra arctique, derni\u00e8re \u00ab&nbsp;chance&nbsp;\u00bb pour observer des pics mais sans succ\u00e8s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Jeudi 23 Juin, nous sommes r\u00e9veill\u00e9s t\u00f4t car la chaleur dans la tente est vite insupportable. On s\u2019installe deux chaises devant la laverie pour prendre le petit d\u00e9jeuner. C\u2019est un lieu de passage strat\u00e9gique o\u00f9 nous faisons de belles rencontres. Un homme moustachu aux yeux clairs remplit la cuve de son camping-car: c\u2019est un retrait\u00e9 belge qui vient ici depuis quarante ans pour p\u00eacher le saumon \u00e0 la mouche, en \u00e9t\u00e9. Il nous apprend \u00e9norm\u00e9ment de choses sur cette pratique et son contexte&nbsp;: parasites, maladies, probl\u00e8mes dus aux esp\u00e8ces introduites, inconv\u00e9nients de l\u2019\u00e9levage, techniques de p\u00eache, d\u00e9sinfection du mat\u00e9riel, d\u00e9clarations de capture, r\u00e9glementation juridique\u2026 Les r\u00e8gles sont tr\u00e8s strictes&nbsp;: il faut s\u2019acquitter \u00e0 la journ\u00e9e un \u00ab&nbsp;permis de p\u00eacher&nbsp;\u00bb d\u2019environ trente euros, une redevance qui permet de capturer un saumon pas plus, dans un maximum de quatre par saison en respectant des crit\u00e8res de genre et de taille bien pr\u00e9cis (faute de quoi ils doivent \u00eatre rel\u00e2ch\u00e9s). Le Saumon atlantique <em>Salmo salar, <\/em>est une esp\u00e8ce sauvage \u00ab&nbsp;anadrome&nbsp;\u00bb, un joli mot pour d\u00e9signer le fait qu\u2019il passe une partie de sa vie dans l\u2019eau de mer, et vient se reproduire dans l\u2019eau douce des rivi\u00e8res qu\u2019ils remontent jusqu\u2019\u00e0 leur lieu de naissance. Une migration aller-retour de plusieurs milliers de kilom\u00e8tres, fascinante, autant que celle des oiseaux&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Il ach\u00e8ve de remplir ses r\u00e9servoirs et nous invite \u00e0 le rejoindre dans l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi \u00e0 la rivi\u00e8re pour nous montrer la p\u00eache \u00e0 la mouche. Il man\u0153uvre avec son camping-car pour faire demi-tour, le stoppe puis ressort et revient vers nous. Il nous tend des chocolats belges et des filets pr\u00e9par\u00e9s et congel\u00e9s, du lieu noir, p\u00each\u00e9 quelques jours plus t\u00f4t au phare du village.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190494-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2771\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190494-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190494-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190494-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190494-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190494-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1190494-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous prolongeons le caf\u00e9 au soleil en attendant que la lessive se termine. Arrive un magnifique 4&#215;4 d\u2019exploration blanc, que nous avions d\u00e9j\u00e0 aper\u00e7u la veille. Tiens, une plaque d\u2019immatriculation fran\u00e7aise\u2026 Gabriel aborde le conducteur qui sort de la r\u00e9ception du camping. Nous discutons avec Jean-Marc, photographe naturaliste, fin connaisseur du Varanger et de son avifaune, et \u00e9changeons sur les oiseaux observ\u00e9s et les coins les plus propices \u00e0 l\u2019observation de telle ou telle esp\u00e8ce. Il nous propose de nous emmener voir des Chouettes \u00e9pervi\u00e8res cet apr\u00e8s-midi. Nous d\u00e9jeunons rapidement sur le pouce et nous pr\u00e9parons pour partir en excursion avec lui.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>C\u2019est leur cris qui nous aident \u00e0 les localiser dans un premier temps. Ce sont des jeunes, perch\u00e9s sur des branches et qui attendent le ravitaillement par un adulte. Un des petits tient dans ses serres un rongeur ensanglant\u00e9, on distingue qu\u2019il en a m\u00eame sur le bec. L\u2019adulte ne tarde pas \u00e0 faire une apparition. Notre pr\u00e9sence n\u2019a pas l\u2019air de les inqui\u00e9ter. Nous faisons de tr\u00e8s belles observations, \u00ab&nbsp;Comme en plein documentaire animalier&nbsp;!\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-9 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2812\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200125-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2812\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200125-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200125-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200125-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200125-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200125-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200125-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2811\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200104-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2811\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200104-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200104-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200104-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200104-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200104-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200104-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2807\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200013-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2807\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200013-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200013-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200013-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200013-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200013-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200013-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2809\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200072-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2809\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200072-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200072-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200072-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200072-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200072-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200072-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-caption wp-element-caption\">Chouettes \u00e9pervi\u00e8res juv\u00e9niles<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>De retour au camping, nous enfourchons de nouveau les v\u00e9los pour partir cette fois en direction de la rivi\u00e8re et tenter de retrouver notre bienfaiteur belge. Sur ses conseils, nous remontons le cours d\u2019eau \u00e0 pied jusqu\u2019aux \u00e9chelles \u00e0 saumon, des am\u00e9nagements artificiels qui les aident \u00e0 franchir les ressauts difficiles, et faciliter ainsi leur reproduction. Nous luttons contre les moustiques dans ces sous bois de bouleaux et de foug\u00e8res vert fluo. Les Bergeronnettes grises font des provisions d\u2019insectes chass\u00e9s au dessus de l\u2019eau pour rassasier leur nich\u00e9e. Les Gobemouches gris se lancent aussi dans le vide pour en attraper et retournent \u00e0 leur poste dans le talus. Deux Buses pattues semblent ne pas tol\u00e9rer notre pr\u00e9sence car elles viennent cercler au-dessus de nous depuis l\u2019autre rive. Nous faisons demi-tour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le p\u00eacheur Belge (nous n\u2019avons malheureusement pas \u00e9chang\u00e9 nos pr\u00e9noms) se trouve dans le delta de la rivi\u00e8re, \u00e0 l\u2019endroit o\u00f9 elle s\u2019\u00e9largit sur des bancs de graviers peu profonds. Il est dans l\u2019eau jusqu\u2019aux genoux, lan\u00e7ant r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement dans un geste souple la \u00ab&nbsp;mouche&nbsp;\u00bb fix\u00e9e au bout du fil de soie. \u00ab&nbsp;Les saumons ne gobent pas la mouche par faim, car ils je\u00fbnent pendant leur effort, mais plut\u00f4t par agressivit\u00e9&nbsp;\u00bb, nous avait-il appris le matin-m\u00eame. Nous \u00e9changeons du haut de la berge mais il faut mettre les mains en porte-voix pour se comprendre. Soudain, \u00ab&nbsp;Hop, \u00e7a mord&nbsp;! Vous me portez chance, c\u2019est un gros&nbsp;!\u00bb. Commence alors une lutte d\u2019un bon quart d\u2019heure pour remonter la ligne et le rapprocher de lui tout doucement. \u00abC\u2019est un gros&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb r\u00e9p\u00e8te-t-il plusieurs fois, la canne courb\u00e9e par le poids et la puissance du poisson. La sc\u00e8ne arr\u00eate des curieux qui tentent comme nous d\u2019essayer de voir \u00e0 quoi ressemble le sp\u00e9cimen. On ne distingue que quelques reflets dans l\u2019eau sombre. Le p\u00eacheur parvient \u00e0 l\u2019amener jusqu\u2019\u00e0 ses pieds, il s\u2019accroupit pour inspecter sa prise, aussi longue que sa cuisse, et la rel\u00e2che aussit\u00f4t en ayant pris soin de lui retirer l\u2019hame\u00e7on de la joue. Le p\u00eacheur reprend son souffle, \u00e9puis\u00e9, les bras tendus en appui sur les genoux fl\u00e9chis. Le poisson p\u00e8se une quinzaine de kilos d\u2019apr\u00e8s lui, et plus de 70 cm de long, taille au-del\u00e0 de laquelle ils doivent \u00eatre remis en libert\u00e9. \u00ab&nbsp;J\u2019aurais pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9 qu\u2019il se d\u00e9fasse tout seul. S\u2019il avait \u00e9t\u00e9 plus petit, je vous en aurais bien donn\u00e9 une part&nbsp;! Vous m\u2019avez port\u00e9 chance pour ma premi\u00e8re sortie de la saison, Merci !&nbsp;\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video\"><video height=\"738\" style=\"aspect-ratio: 554 \/ 738;\" width=\"554\" controls src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/20220623_191649.mp4\"><\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Quelle journ\u00e9e&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vers 22 heures un grand b\u00fbcher est enflamm\u00e9 sur la place du camping, c\u2019est le jour de la \u00ab&nbsp;midsommar&nbsp;\u00bb, la f\u00eate de l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 en Scandinavie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vendredi 24 Juin, le feu fume encore. Carole et et \u00c9lie, deux ornithologues fran\u00e7ais rencontr\u00e9s au camping, nous font part de leur excursion \u00e0 Horn\u00f8ya, la petite \u00eele en face de Vard\u00f8, o\u00f9 nous avons h\u00e2te d\u2019aller. Une autre cycliste, Kirsten, est aussi sur le d\u00e9part. Nous la retrouvons sur la route quelques kilom\u00e8tres plus loin, apr\u00e8s de multiples pauses. La premi\u00e8re \u00e0 la sortie du village pour un Phragmite des joncs, la deuxi\u00e8me pour remplir notre r\u00e9servoir d\u2019essence (pour le r\u00e9chaud), et la troisi\u00e8me pour un gros ravitaillement en vue d\u2019organiser la fin du s\u00e9jour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200157-1-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3159\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200157-1-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200157-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200157-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200157-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200157-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200157-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Phragmite des joncs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200192-1-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3160\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200192-1-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200192-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200192-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200192-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200192-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200192-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous pr\u00e9voyons cette fois-ci assez pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment nos \u00e9tapes, en fonction des pr\u00e9visions m\u00e9t\u00e9o et des vents annonc\u00e9s, afin de mettre toutes les chances de notre c\u00f4t\u00e9s pour de bonnes conditions lors de la visite d\u2019Horn\u00f8ya. En chemin, nous nous arr\u00eatons sur un \u00e9tang recommand\u00e9 par Jean-Marc pour observer les phalaropes \u00e0 bec \u00e9troits. D\u2019adorables petits oiseaux tournant sur eux-m\u00eames en qu\u00eate d\u2019insectes \u00e0 la surface de l\u2019eau. Mais que fait donc cet homme en combinaison compl\u00e8te dans l\u2019eau glaciale au milieu des oiseaux\u00a0? Les phalaropes ne semblent pas lui pr\u00eater attention tant ses gestes sont lents pour rentrer dans l&rsquo;eau. Il est ensuite quasiment immobile pour les capturer en photo. Nous n&rsquo;\u00e9tions pas aussi proches que lui pour les observer mais assez pour appr\u00e9cier leur profil d\u00e9licat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-10 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2817\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200283-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2817\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200283-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200283-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200283-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200283-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200283-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200283-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1706\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2819\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200287-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2819\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200287-2-scaled.jpg 1706w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200287-2-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200287-2-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200287-2-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200287-2-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200287-2-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1706px) 100vw, 1706px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2820\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200296-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2820\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200296-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200296-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200296-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200296-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200296-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200296-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"1715\" data-id=\"2824\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200303-scaled-e1656951742971.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2824\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200303-scaled-e1656951742971.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200303-scaled-e1656951742971-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200303-scaled-e1656951742971-1019x1024.jpg 1019w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200303-scaled-e1656951742971-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200303-scaled-e1656951742971-768x772.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200303-scaled-e1656951742971-1529x1536.jpg 1529w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>En fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, nous atteignons un endroit dans la toundra recommand\u00e9 \u00e0 distance par Laurent M. et dont le potentiel est confirm\u00e9 par Jean-Marc. Nous devrions avoir de bonnes chances d\u2019y voir des labbes \u00e0 longue-queue. Pour y acc\u00e9der, nous empruntons une piste, assez raide pour qu\u2019elle nous oblige \u00e0 pousser les v\u00e9los. Elle m\u00e8ne sur un plateau d\u00e9gag\u00e9 \u00e0 la v\u00e9g\u00e9tation rase, typique de la toundra. Quelques bouleaux nains torsad\u00e9s subsistent cependant, aux abords d\u2019un premier \u00e9tang o\u00f9 nous installons la longue-vue. Le vent fort ne nous \u00e9pargne pas pour autant les moustiques. Nous observons un couple de Macreuses noires, et un autre d\u2019Hareldes bor\u00e9ales. Quelques phalaropes barbotent dans les branchages immerg\u00e9s. Elles picorent d\u2019invisibles insectes \u00e0 la surface de l\u2019\u00e9corce.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-11 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2831\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200414-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2831\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200414-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200414-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200414-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200414-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200414-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200414-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Phalarope \u00e0 bec \u00e9troit <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2830\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200353-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2830\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200353-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200353-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200353-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200353-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200353-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200353-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Hareldes bor\u00e9ales<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2826\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200322-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2826\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200322-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200322-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200322-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200322-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200322-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200322-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous poursuivons plus loin sur la piste, au-del\u00e0 du plan d\u2019eau, pour chercher un bivouac \u00e0 l\u2019abri du vent. Quelques enrochements saillants constitueront nos pare-vents pour la nuit. Les sardines ne s\u2019enfoncent pas beaucoup mais l\u2019on parvient \u00e0 les ins\u00e9rer de biais, quasiment \u00e0 l\u2019horizontale, entre les racines des bouleaux rampants, \u00e0 la mani\u00e8re d\u2019une aiguille dans une \u00e9toffe. Le ciel se charge de nuages sombres et les effets de lumi\u00e8re qui apparaissent au moindre rayon sont magnifiques. Marine s\u2019\u00e9loigne du campement pour mieux observer les labbes parasites en contrebas. L\u2019un d\u2019entre eux au sol, se rel\u00e8ve inquiet et mime une aile cass\u00e9e, une strat\u00e9gie pour attirer le pr\u00e9dateur loin de sa nich\u00e9e. C\u2019est un signe que Marine est trop proche, elle revient lentement sur ses pas. Deux Tournepierres \u00e0 collier poursuivent un Labbe parasite de forme claire, de la m\u00eame esp\u00e8ce que le sombre mais pr\u00e9sentant un plumage bicolore contrast\u00e9. Les Traquets motteux s\u2019agitent et quatre Hareldes bor\u00e9ales passent furtivement dans l\u2019air pour changer de plan d\u2019eau. Le soir, une grosse averse nous contraint \u00e0 manger dans la tente. Dans la nuit, un Hibou des marais file au dessus de la toundra dans un vol ample et silencieux. Le lagop\u00e8de des saules fait retentir son toussotement dans notre sommeil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-12 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2891\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200466-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2891\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200466-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200466-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200466-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200466-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200466-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200466-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2892\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200471-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2892\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200471-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200471-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200471-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200471-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200471-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200471-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Tournepierre \u00e0 collier <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2890\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200460-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2890\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200460-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200460-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200460-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200460-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200460-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200460-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2971\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210674-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2971\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210674-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210674-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210674-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210674-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210674-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210674-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Labbe parasite (forme sombre)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2974\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210691-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2974\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210691-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210691-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210691-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210691-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210691-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210691-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Labbes parasites (formes claires)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2888\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200456-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2888\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200456-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200456-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200456-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200456-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200456-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200456-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2889\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200458-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2889\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200458-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200458-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200458-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200458-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200458-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200458-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2838\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200455-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2838\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200455-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200455-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200455-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200455-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200455-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200455-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2837\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200454-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2837\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200454-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200454-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200454-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200454-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200454-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200454-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2836\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200452-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2836\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200452-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200452-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200452-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200452-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200452-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200452-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2835\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200447-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2835\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200447-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200447-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200447-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200447-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200447-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200447-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2832\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200427-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2832\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200427-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200427-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200427-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200427-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200427-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200427-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Samedi 25 Juin. Nous savourons le petit d\u00e9jeuner dans ce coin sauvage. Les labbes fendent l\u2019air au-dessus de nos t\u00eates. Deux d\u2019entre eux pr\u00e9sentent une queue bien plus longue que celle des labbes parasite. \u00ab&nbsp;Les labbes \u00e0 longue-queue&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb. Nous n\u2019en verront pas plus que cette apparition\u2026 Dommage, nous n\u2019avons m\u00eame pas le temps de mettre les jumelles dessus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous retournons au plan d\u2019eau de la veille, qui refl\u00e8te cette fois-ci un ciel bleu \u00e9clatant lav\u00e9 de tout nuage. Les phalaropes sont toujours l\u00e0, et un nouvel oiseau vient d\u2019arriver. Il plonge et refait surface tout pr\u00e8s de nous. C\u2019est un Plongeon catmarin, son plumage est remarquable&nbsp;: des stries noires et blanches tr\u00e8s graphiques et fines dans la nuque, et une gorge rubis sous le bec. Il a un port de t\u00eate bien diff\u00e9rent du Plongeon arctique que nous avions beaucoup observ\u00e9 en Su\u00e8de. Il secoue la t\u00eate, g\u00ean\u00e9 par les insectes et replonge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 wp-block-gallery-13 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1706\" data-id=\"2896\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200542-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2896\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200542-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200542-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200542-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200542-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200542-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200542-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2895\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200540-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2895\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200540-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200540-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200540-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200540-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200540-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200540-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Plongeon catmarin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2894\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200534-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2894\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200534-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200534-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200534-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200534-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200534-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200534-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Plongeon catmarin <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2893\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200513-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2893\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200513-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200513-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200513-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200513-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200513-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200513-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Phalarope \u00e0 bec \u00e9troit <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous reprenons notre chemin et observons un beau m\u00e2le de Bruant lapon, occup\u00e9 \u00e0 collecter des insectes dans son bec. Nous retrouvons l\u2019asphalte et filons plein Nord, sur une portion que l\u2019on appelle \u00ab\u00a0la route \u00e0 pygargues\u00a0\u00bb, faute de retenir les noms des lieux dits. Nous d\u00e9jeunons pr\u00e8s d\u2019un pont enjambant une rivi\u00e8re se d\u00e9versant dans le fjord. Les bancs de sables sont parcourus de grands gravelots, b\u00e9casseaux variables, de petits limicoles. L\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi le paysage change, tout en roches, falaises, n\u00e9v\u00e9s et v\u00e9g\u00e9tation rare. Gabriel y trouve des similitudes avec certains paysages islandais. Nous sommes suivis par un convoi de camping-cars, que nous laissons passer au moment de bifurquer \u00e0 gauche pour emprunter une autre piste qui s\u2019enfonce vers l\u2019int\u00e9rieur des terres. On en compte quinze \u00e0 la suite !<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-14 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2907\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200659-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2907\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200659-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200659-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200659-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200659-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200659-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200659-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2908\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200671-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2908\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200671-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200671-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200671-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200671-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200671-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200671-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2906\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200644-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2906\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200644-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200644-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200644-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200644-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200644-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200644-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Grand gravelot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2905\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200634-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2905\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200634-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200634-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200634-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200634-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200634-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200634-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">B\u00e9casseau sanderling<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2904\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200613-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2904\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200613-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200613-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200613-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200613-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200613-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200613-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2903\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200610-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2903\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200610-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200610-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200610-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200610-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200610-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200610-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2902\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200603-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2902\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200603-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200603-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200603-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200603-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200603-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200603-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2901\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200597-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2901\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200597-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200597-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200597-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200597-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200597-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200597-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2900\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200590-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2900\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200590-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200590-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200590-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200590-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200590-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200590-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pygargue \u00e0 queue blanche <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1706\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2899\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200564-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2899\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200564-2-scaled.jpg 1706w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200564-2-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200564-2-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200564-2-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200564-2-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200564-2-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1706px) 100vw, 1706px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2898\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200562-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2898\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200562-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200562-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200562-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200562-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200562-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200562-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Jean-Marc nous a recommand\u00e9 un secteur, en fronti\u00e8re du parc national o\u00f9 des barges rousses nichent. Nous faisons plusieurs pauses pour scanner aux jumelles les endroits propices. Un point roux sur fond de pierrier gris nous confirme que nous sommes au bon endroit. Mais comment le voir de plus pr\u00e8s&nbsp;? Nous tentons une approche en contournant largement la zone et utilisons la topographie du terrain pour ne pas se faire rep\u00e9rer. Rat\u00e9, nous sommes d\u00e9masqu\u00e9s&nbsp;! L\u2019oiseau vient \u00e0 nous alors que nous sommes encore \u00e0 une bonne centaine de m\u00e8tres de son habitat. Nous sommes assis, immobiles, et chose \u00e9tonnante, ce m\u00e2le de Barge rousse se rapproche encore&nbsp;! Une belle s\u00e9ance d\u2019observation que nous \u00e9courtons, car il est manifestement d\u00e9rang\u00e9 par notre pr\u00e9sence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-15 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2911\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200819-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2911\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200819-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200819-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200819-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200819-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200819-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200819-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">M\u00e2le de Barge rousse <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous montons le camp plus loin, apr\u00e8s avoir \u00e9tudi\u00e9 la direction du vent et consult\u00e9 les pr\u00e9visions. Pendant que Marine part jusqu\u2019\u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e du Parc, Gabriel arpente les talus enneig\u00e9s pour prendre en photo des sizerins blanch\u00e2tres, des pluviers dor\u00e9s, et un m\u00e2le de Bruant lapon qui s\u2019est pos\u00e9 juste devant lui, le temps d\u2019une rafale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-16 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2920\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200965-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2920\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200965-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200965-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200965-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200965-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200965-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200965-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Bruant lapon, m\u00e2le <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2919\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200933-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2919\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200933-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200933-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200933-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200933-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200933-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200933-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pluvier dor\u00e9 <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2916\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200891-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2916\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200891-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200891-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200891-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200891-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200891-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200891-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Sizerin blanch\u00e2tre<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2918\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200919-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2918\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200919-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200919-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200919-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200919-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200919-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200919-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Sizerin blanch\u00e2tre<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>La quantit\u00e9 de moustiques qui appara\u00eet soudainement nous fait innover dans les strat\u00e9gies de protection&nbsp;: on d\u00e9cide de manger en marchant&nbsp;! On referme la tente et on entend quelque part les B\u00e9cassines des marais et la B\u00e9cassine sourde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vers deux heures du matin, le vent fait claquer le double-toit si fort que nous sommes r\u00e9veill\u00e9s en sursaut. Le vent a bascul\u00e9 et la tente est tr\u00e8s mal orient\u00e9e pour r\u00e9sister au vent. Gabriel replace et tend le haubanage mais ce n\u2019est pas suffisant&nbsp;: les arceaux subissent une flexion dangereuse. Nous consultons inquiets les pr\u00e9visions m\u00e9t\u00e9o (et m\u00eame la fiche technique de la tente, sur le site de Decathlon). Aucune de ces informations n\u2019est rassurante. Marine se rendort tout de m\u00eame, Gabriel veille et finit par la r\u00e9veiller \u00e0 trois heures. \u00ab&nbsp;Il faut d\u00e9monter la tente, on ne peut pas risquer de casser les arceaux&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb. Marine grommelle quelque chose mais s\u2019ex\u00e9cute, les yeux gonfl\u00e9s de sommeil. On comprime nos affaires rapidement dans les sacoches, et d\u00e9montons notre maison, en faisant appel \u00e0 la notion de voile \u00ab&nbsp;au vent&nbsp;\/ sous le vent&nbsp;\u00bb, pour tirer des avantages du vent dans les man\u0153uvres. Les rafales nous poussent sans que nous ayons besoin de p\u00e9daler sur la piste de graviers, m\u00eame sur du faux-plat. Nous prenons quand m\u00eame le temps de photographier un Courlis corlieu avant de rejoindre un abri. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200990-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2923\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200990-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200990-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200990-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200990-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200990-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1200990-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Courlis corlieu<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous trouvons refuge contre une cabane. Le soleil est d\u00e9j\u00e0 haut. Il y a du vent sur les quatre fa\u00e7ades. S\u2019il avait fait moins froid, nous serions bien rest\u00e9s assis \u00e0 terminer notre nuit. Nous d\u00e9lib\u00e9rons rapidement&nbsp;: il faut p\u00e9daler pour se r\u00e9chauffer&nbsp;! Un Lagop\u00e8de des saules d\u00e9colle \u00e0 notre passage dans la descente. Le vent nous vient de babord, et c\u2019est justement la direction que l\u2019on doit prendre\u2026 On lutte pour arriver, dix kilom\u00e8tres plus loin, \u00e0 un abri bus parfaitement orient\u00e9. Marine s\u2019endort. Le vent se calme \u00e0 peine, mais nous devons respecter notre planning serr\u00e9, il faut repartir. Quelques limicoles&nbsp;\u00e9gayent notre progression dans ces \u00e9l\u00e9ments contraires : des chevaliers gambettes (tr\u00e8s communs et bruyants), des chevaliers sylvains (plus discrets), et des combattants vari\u00e9s (un vol de plusieurs m\u00e2les et un jeune pos\u00e9). Nous arrivons \u00e9puis\u00e9s au port de Kiberg o\u00f9 un bel observatoire en bois nous attend. Nous avons tout le loisir d\u2019y observer les mouettes tridactyles nichant sur les fen\u00eatres des b\u00e2timents portuaires d\u00e9saffect\u00e9s, et un couple de barges rousses dans le sable. En fin de journ\u00e9e, apr\u00e8s une c\u00f4te \u00e9prouvante, nous faisons une autre visite \u00ab&nbsp;archi&nbsp;\u00bb dans un nouvel observatoire des m\u00eames architectes que le pr\u00e9c\u00e9dent, cette fois-ci en belv\u00e9d\u00e8re sur Vard\u00f8.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-17 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2932\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210313-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2932\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210313-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210313-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210313-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210313-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210313-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210313-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Barges rousses<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2931\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210294-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2931\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210294-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210294-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210294-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210294-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210294-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210294-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">couple de barges rousses<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2926\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210107-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2926\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210107-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210107-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210107-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210107-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210107-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210107-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Combattant vari\u00e9 <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2924\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210065-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2924\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210065-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210065-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210065-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210065-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210065-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210065-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Chevaliers sylvains <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-18 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2941\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210401-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2941\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210401-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210401-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210401-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210401-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210401-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210401-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2940\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210397-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2940\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210397-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210397-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210397-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210397-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210397-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210397-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2938\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210367-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2938\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210367-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210367-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210367-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210367-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210367-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210367-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2936\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210353-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2936\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210353-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210353-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210353-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210353-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210353-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210353-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2935\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210350-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2935\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210350-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210350-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210350-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210350-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210350-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210350-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2933\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210341-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2933\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210341-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210341-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210341-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210341-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210341-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210341-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2939\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210379-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2939\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210379-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210379-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210379-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210379-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210379-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210379-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2934\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210343-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2934\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210343-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210343-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210343-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210343-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210343-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210343-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Lundi 27 Juin. Nous pr\u00e9parons notre \u00e9quipement en vue de rejoindre Vard\u00f8. Gilet fluo et phares, pour affronter le tunnel sous-marin de trois kilom\u00e8tres de long, qui relie l\u2019\u00eele au continent. Un boyau sombre, glacial et humide, qui vous emm\u00e8ne 88 m\u00e8tres sous le niveau de la mer, dans un vrombissement de turbines de ventilation effrayant. Une exp\u00e9rience terrifiante en v\u00e9lo, aussit\u00f4t oubli\u00e9e, car on tombe sous le charme de cette ville particuli\u00e8rement photog\u00e9nique. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-19 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2944\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210414-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2944\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210414-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210414-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210414-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210414-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210414-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210414-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2943\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210411-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2943\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210411-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210411-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210411-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210411-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210411-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210411-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Mouettes tridactyles<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2942\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210402-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2942\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210402-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210402-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210402-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210402-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210402-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210402-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous n\u2019avons pas pr\u00e9vu de nous attarder mais nous discutons un moment avec Kirsten que nous retrouvons devant l\u2019office du tourisme \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de son v\u00e9lo, et un ancien coureur cycliste normand \u00e0 qui on d\u00e9taille notre \u00e9quipement et notre mode d\u2019itin\u00e9rance. Nous partons vite faire les provisions dont nous avons besoin pour les deux jours suivants. Les sacoches bien remplies, nous reprenons le tunnel&nbsp;: un kilom\u00e8tre et demi en descente, et autant en mont\u00e9e bien raide. Heureusement pour nous qu\u2019il n\u2019est pas tr\u00e8s fr\u00e9quent\u00e9. Nous prenons la direction de Hamninberg, le dernier village du bout de la route du Varanger. Le vent est dans notre dos cette fois-ci, les kilom\u00e8tres sont moins \u00e9prouvants que la veille.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-20 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2959\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210568-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2959\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210568-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210568-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210568-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210568-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210568-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210568-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2958\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210563-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2958\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210563-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210563-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210563-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210563-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210563-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210563-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2956\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210540-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2956\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210540-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210540-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210540-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210540-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210540-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210540-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Oie de la toundra<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2955\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210526-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2955\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210526-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210526-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210526-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210526-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210526-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210526-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2954\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210523-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2954\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210523-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210523-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210523-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210523-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210523-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210523-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2953\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210512-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2953\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210512-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210512-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210512-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210512-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210512-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210512-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2952\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210501-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2952\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210501-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210501-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210501-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210501-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210501-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210501-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2951\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210499-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2951\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210499-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210499-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210499-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210499-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210499-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210499-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2950\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210477-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2950\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210477-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210477-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210477-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210477-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210477-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210477-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2949\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210465-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2949\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210465-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210465-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210465-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210465-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210465-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210465-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2948\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210446-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2948\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210446-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210446-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210446-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210446-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210446-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210446-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2947\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210434-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2947\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210434-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210434-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210434-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210434-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210434-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210434-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2946\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210429-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2946\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210429-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210429-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210429-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210429-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210429-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210429-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2945\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210425-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2945\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210425-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210425-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210425-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210425-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210425-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210425-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Les paysages sont de plus en plus beaux. L\u2019unique itin\u00e9raire c\u00f4tier traverse des paysages min\u00e9raux fabuleux. C\u2019est impressionnant. Arriv\u00e9e \u00ab&nbsp;au bout du monde&nbsp;\u00bb en milieu d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi malgr\u00e9 nos pauses photos tr\u00e8s fr\u00e9quentes et le relief accident\u00e9. Nous sommes maintenant au point le plus septentrional de notre parcours. \u00ab&nbsp;Ouais&nbsp;!!!&nbsp;\u00bb On f\u00eate \u00e7a avec un fika au bunker d\u00e9labr\u00e9 de la pointe d\u2019Hamninberg. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-21 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1708\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2963\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210590-scaled-e1656841344161.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2963\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210590-scaled-e1656841344161.jpg 1708w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210590-scaled-e1656841344161-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210590-scaled-e1656841344161-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210590-scaled-e1656841344161-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210590-scaled-e1656841344161-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210590-scaled-e1656841344161-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1708px) 100vw, 1708px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2962\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210587-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2962\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210587-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210587-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210587-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210587-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210587-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210587-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2961\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210582-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2961\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210582-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210582-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210582-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210582-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210582-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210582-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2960\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210576-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2960\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210576-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210576-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210576-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210576-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210576-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210576-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Le vent du Sud est annonc\u00e9 pour demain, on l\u2019aura en pleine face pour revenir \u00e0 Vard\u00f8\u2026 C\u2019est pourquoi nous ne nous attardons pas longtemps et repartons dans l\u2019autre sens pour bivouaquer \u00e0 mi-chemin. \u00ab&nbsp;Pause ornitho&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb d\u00e9cr\u00e8te Marine quelques kilom\u00e8tres plus loin. Un pipit s\u2019est pos\u00e9 sur les cailloux clairs du bord de la route. C\u2019est un Pipit \u00e0 gorge rousse, sans doute une femelle, une chenille dans le bec.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-22 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2965\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210600-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2965\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210600-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210600-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210600-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210600-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210600-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210600-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2964\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210595-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2964\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210595-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210595-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210595-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210595-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210595-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210595-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3162\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210623-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3162\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210623-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210623-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210623-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210623-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210623-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pipit \u00e0 gorge rousse <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>On h\u00e9site \u00e0 s\u2019arr\u00eater pr\u00e8s de la r\u00e9serve de Sandfjord rep\u00e9r\u00e9e \u00e0 l\u2019aller, mais nous la d\u00e9passons, dans l\u2019id\u00e9e de r\u00e9duire notre \u00e9tape du lendemain. C\u2019\u00e9tait peut-\u00eatre une erreur, car le prochain terrain propice ne sera trouv\u00e9 qu\u2019au 87\u00e8me kilom\u00e8tre de la journ\u00e9e, le double de ce qu\u2019on pensait faire. Malgr\u00e9 tout, ce petit replat au pied d\u2019un abri sous roche ne manque pas de charme. Il fait entre six et sept degr\u00e9s, Marine claque des dents en plantant la tente, il faut se pr\u00e9parer quelque chose de chaud. Pas de bol, le r\u00e9chaud ne s\u2019allume pas\u2026 on mange froid, d\u00e9pit\u00e9s et fatigu\u00e9s. On s\u2019endort d\u2019un coup avec le ressac.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-23 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2970\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210659-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2970\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210659-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210659-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210659-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210659-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210659-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210659-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3163\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210641-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3163\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210641-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210641-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210641-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210641-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210641-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3164\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210637-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3164\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210637-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210637-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210637-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210637-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210637-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3165\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210634-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3165\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210634-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210634-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210634-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210634-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210634-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Mardi 28 Juin. Lever devant la mer. On a eu du mal \u00e0 le trouver ce bivouac, alors on en profite ce matin. Pause lessive dans le torrent juste apr\u00e8s. Le vent est tr\u00e8s fort de face, mais nous ne le subissons pas autant qu\u2019hier, cela nous permet au contraire de progresser lentement et mieux observer des pluviers dor\u00e9s et des b\u00e9casseaux variables.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-24 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3166\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210690-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3166\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210690-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210690-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210690-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210690-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210690-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pluvier dor\u00e9 <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3167\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210695-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3167\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210695-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210695-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210695-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210695-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210695-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">B\u00e9casseau variable <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3168\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210686-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3168\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210686-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210686-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210686-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210686-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210686-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">B\u00e9casseau variable <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous d\u00e9jeunons \u00e0 l\u2019abri de la r\u00e9serve naturelle (encore un joli projet des architectes de Biotope) et profitons de l\u2019endroit pour nettoyer \u00e0 fond le r\u00e9chaud. Au terme d\u2019une heure de d\u00e9montage, inspection et nettoyage. il remarche comme neuf. Il fait le bruit d\u2019une fus\u00e9e pr\u00eate \u00e0 d\u00e9coller et chauffe rapidement l\u2019eau du caf\u00e9 que l\u2019on a pas pu prendre ce matin. Nous n\u2019avons pas d\u2019autre objectif aujourd\u2019hui que celui de rejoindre Vard\u00f8 ce soir, afin d\u2019\u00eatre sur place pour embarquer vers Horn\u00f8ya \u00e0 neuf heures le lendemain. Apr\u00e8s un arr\u00eat dans le port de Svartnes sur le continent \u00e0 scruter les larid\u00e9s, le passage du tunnel est maintenant une simple formalit\u00e9. On prend le temps de fl\u00e2ner autour du port et de prendre quelques photos avec la lumi\u00e8re du soir&nbsp;: lumi\u00e8re crue, fresques sur les murs, vieux chalutiers, b\u00e2timents \u00e0 l\u2019abandon\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-25 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3169\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220278-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3169\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220278-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220278-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220278-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220278-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220278-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3170\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220289-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3170\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220289-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220289-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220289-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220289-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220289-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3171\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210815-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3171\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210815-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210815-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210815-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210815-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210815-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2979\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210811-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2979\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210811-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210811-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210811-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210811-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210811-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210811-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2985\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210837-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2985\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210837-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210837-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210837-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210837-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210837-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210837-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2978\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210804-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2978\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210804-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210804-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210804-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210804-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210804-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210804-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2984\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210833-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2984\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210833-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210833-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210833-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210833-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210833-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210833-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2986\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210840-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2986\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210840-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210840-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210840-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210840-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210840-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210840-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2982\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210829-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2982\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210829-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210829-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210829-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210829-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210829-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210829-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3172\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220300-1-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3172\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220300-1-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220300-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220300-1-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220300-1-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220300-1-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220300-1-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3173\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210832-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3173\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210832-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210832-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210832-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210832-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210832-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Mercredi 29 Juin, journ\u00e9e chaude. Trop chaude. On a pas fait 5700 kilom\u00e8tres vers le Nord pour retrouver des canicules, non mais. On embarque en T-shirt sur la navette d\u2019Horn\u00f8ya, laissant nos v\u00e9los charg\u00e9s sur le quai. La travers\u00e9e dure une dizaine de minutes jusqu\u2019au ponton au pied d\u2019une grande falaise dans l\u2019ombre. Nos yeux s\u2019habituent \u00e0 mesure que l\u2019on approche, pour distinguer dans la roche les silhouettes des milliers de guillemots entass\u00e9s. L\u2019odeur et le vacarme de la colonie sont saisissants. \u00c7a vole dans tous les sens entre la mer et la falaise dans un joyeux festival. Les guillemots de Tro\u00efl s\u2019\u00e9lancent toutes pattes dehors vers l\u2019eau. Les macareux moines sortent la t\u00eate de leur terrier avec leur petit air timide. Les Cormorans hupp\u00e9s claquent du bec \u00e0 notre passage. Les pingouins torda se dorent paisiblement au soleil. Des quantit\u00e9s de mouettes tridactyles nous regardent de haut. Quelques guillemots de Brunnich, ont \u00e9lu domicile tout en haut sur la corniche. Les photographes d\u00e9gainent leur grand t\u00e9l\u00e9objectif, ne sachant plus o\u00f9 donner de la t\u00eate. Comme nous. On se sent compl\u00e8tement submerg\u00e9s, \u00e9trangers, presque oppress\u00e9s par la proximit\u00e9 avec autant d\u2019oiseaux. Un Cormoran hupp\u00e9 nichant sous l\u2019escalier d\u2019acc\u00e8s \u00e0 la partie haute de l\u2019\u00eele pince toutes les chaussures qui se pr\u00e9sentent devant son nid. Le pauvre, il n\u2019a pas choisi le meilleur endroit. La falaise passe progressivement au soleil, et l\u00e0 c\u2019est le coup de chaud. Notre seul refuge \u00e0 l\u2019ombre est le phare, au sommet de l\u2019\u00eele o\u00f9 nous nous rafra\u00eechissons avant de redescendre lentement, de pause photo en pause photo, jusqu\u2019au ponton.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-26 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3175\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220228-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3175\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220228-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220228-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220228-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220228-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220228-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3174\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210885-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3174\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210885-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210885-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210885-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210885-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210885-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pipit maritime<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3176\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220155-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3176\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220155-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220155-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220155-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220155-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220155-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Guillemots de Tro\u00efl<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3177\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220239-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3177\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220239-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220239-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220239-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220239-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220239-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Cormorans hupp\u00e9s <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3178\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220233-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3178\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220233-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220233-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220233-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220233-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220233-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3180\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220082-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3180\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220082-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220082-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220082-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220082-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220082-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Macareux moine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3179\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220068-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3179\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220068-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220068-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220068-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220068-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220068-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Macareux moine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3182\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220067-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3182\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220067-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220067-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220067-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220067-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220067-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Macareux moine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3184\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220088-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3184\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220088-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220088-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220088-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220088-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220088-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Traquet motteux <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3183\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220103-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3183\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220103-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220103-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220103-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220103-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220103-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">cyclopith\u00e8que<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3181\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220187-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3181\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220187-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220187-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220187-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220187-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220187-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3186\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220123-1-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3186\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220123-1-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220123-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220123-1-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220123-1-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220123-1-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220123-1-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Go\u00e9lands argent\u00e9s<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3187\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220220-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3187\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220220-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220220-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220220-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220220-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220220-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3188\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220031-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3188\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220031-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220031-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220031-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220031-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220031-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Guillemot de Tro\u00efl<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3185\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220182-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3185\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220182-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220182-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220182-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220182-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220182-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3189\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220078-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3189\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220078-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220078-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220078-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220078-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220078-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Macareux moine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3190\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210944-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3190\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210944-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210944-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210944-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210944-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210944-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Guillemot de Tro\u00cfl<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3194\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210954-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3194\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210954-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210954-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210954-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210954-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210954-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Macareux moine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3196\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210970-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3196\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210970-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210970-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210970-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210970-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210970-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Macareux moine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3198\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210991-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3198\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210991-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210991-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210991-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210991-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210991-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Guillemots de Tro\u00efl<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3195\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220014-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3195\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220014-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220014-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220014-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220014-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220014-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pingouin torda <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3191\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220142-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3191\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220142-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220142-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220142-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220142-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220142-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Macareux moine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3192\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220177-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3192\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220177-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220177-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220177-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220177-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220177-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Hornoya<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3193\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210943-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3193\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210943-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210943-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210943-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210943-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210943-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Guillemot de Tro\u00efl<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3197\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210941-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3197\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210941-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210941-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210941-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210941-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210941-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Guillemot de Tro\u00efl <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2996\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210940-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2996\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210940-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210940-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210940-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210940-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210940-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210940-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Guillemot de Tro\u00efl et Pingouin torda <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"2995\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210935-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2995\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210935-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210935-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210935-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210935-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210935-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210935-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pingouin torda <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"2994\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210926-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2994\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210926-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210926-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210926-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210926-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210926-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210926-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Hornoya<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3199\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210862-1-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210862-1-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210862-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210862-1-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210862-1-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210862-1-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210862-1-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Guillemots de Tro\u00efl <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3200\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210866-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3200\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210866-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210866-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210866-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210866-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210866-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3202\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210870-1-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3202\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210870-1-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210870-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210870-1-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210870-1-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210870-1-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210870-1-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3201\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210894-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3201\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210894-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210894-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210894-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210894-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210894-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Macareux moine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3205\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220036-1-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3205\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220036-1-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220036-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220036-1-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220036-1-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220036-1-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220036-1-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3203\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210901-1-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3203\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210901-1-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210901-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210901-1-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210901-1-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210901-1-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210901-1-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pingouin torda <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3209\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210856-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3209\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210856-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210856-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210856-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210856-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210856-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous repartons d\u2019Horn\u00f8ya des oiseaux pleins la t\u00eate. Un peu plus, et l\u2019on faisait une indigestion de guillemots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A notre retour, nos v\u00e9los sur le quais attirent les curieux. On discute longtemps avec un p\u00e8re et son fils venus de Suisse, particuli\u00e8rement admiratifs de notre aventure. Au moment de rejoindre notre bivouac, nous rencontrons Hannu, un \u00ab&nbsp;bike birder&nbsp;\u00bb finlandais. C\u2019est ainsi que l\u2019on d\u00e9signe les ornithos \u00e0 v\u00e9lo. Hannu s\u2019est lanc\u00e9 un d\u00e9fi de \u00ab&nbsp;Green list&nbsp;\u00bb&nbsp;: observer un maximum d\u2019esp\u00e8ces d\u2019oiseaux sans utiliser de moteur pour se d\u00e9placer. Il est venu jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Vard\u00f8 depuis le Sud de la Finlande. Lui aussi a cherch\u00e9 la fameuse Mouette de Ross dans le port, sans succ\u00e8s. Cette mouette de Sib\u00e9rie, rare visiteuse sur ces c\u00f4tes, a \u00e9t\u00e9 aper\u00e7ue quelques jours auparavant et la rumeur s\u2019est rapidement \u00e9tendue \u00e0 tous les ornithologues du coin. On \u00e9change nos coordonn\u00e9es et on lui souhaite bonne continuation en enfourchant nos v\u00e9los. Une minute plus tard, il nous siffle et fait signe de revenir. \u00ab&nbsp;Il y a un Grand labbe dans le port, venez voir&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb. Ce qui ressemble \u00e0 un \u00e9norme b\u00e9b\u00e9 go\u00e9land marron dans le bassin du port est en effet un sp\u00e9cimen du plus grand des labbes. En arri\u00e8re plan, deux jeunes filles en maillot de bain sautent dans l\u2019eau du port. Nous, on est en doudoune, et on commence \u00e0 se refroidir s\u00e9rieusement. Quel est donc le secret du m\u00e9tabolisme des norv\u00e9giens&nbsp;?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Comme la veille, nous \u00e9lisons domicile pr\u00e8s du parking d\u2019une des pointes Nord de la ville. On prend bien soin d\u2019orienter la tente correctement en fonction des pr\u00e9visions de vent. C\u2019est notre derni\u00e8re nuit sur les terres du Varanger.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-27 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3207\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210812-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3207\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210812-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210812-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210812-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210812-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1210812-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Notre nuit est interrompue par la bascule de vent annonc\u00e9e vers deux heures du matin. On se r\u00e9veille et constatons que la tente est bien arrim\u00e9e. On se rendort.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La seule contrainte en cette journ\u00e9e du 30 Juin est de faire un ravitaillement avant d\u2019embarquer \u00e0 17h00 \u00e0 bord du bateau de croisi\u00e8re Hurtigruten qui nous t\u00e9l\u00e9portera sur la c\u00f4te Ouest de la Norv\u00e8ge, au Sud de Troms\u00f8. Nous tenons \u00e9galement \u00e0 faire la visite du m\u00e9morial de Steilneset, collaboration entre Louise Bourgeois et Peter Zumthor. On devrait arriver \u00e0 caser tout cela dans une journ\u00e9e sans p\u00e9dalage. Direction le port, qui est devenu notre QG, pour prendre notre petit d\u00e9jeuner devant l\u2019office du tourisme. Notre id\u00e9e initiale \u00e9tait d\u2019arriver t\u00f4t pour y prendre un douche (on n\u2019en a pas pris depuis une semaine) mais il y a d\u00e9j\u00e0 de l\u2019attente et on apprend qu\u2019elle co\u00fbte pas moins de cinq euros par personne. Tant pis, on attendra ce soir dans le bateau. On reprend place sur notre banc avec un thermos d\u2019eau chaude. Le brouillard fait dispara\u00eetre le clocher et les radars sph\u00e9riques de l\u2019\u00eele dans la p\u00e2leur du ciel. Au loin arrive un dr\u00f4le de personnage \u00e0 la d\u00e9marche nonchalante&nbsp;: tongues, jeans, les bras d\u00e9nud\u00e9s d\u00e9passant d\u2019une fine veste sans manche, bouclettes longues grisonnantes sous un chapeau de cowboy avec des plumes \u00e9pingl\u00e9es, appareil photo sur l\u2019\u00e9paule. On a pourtant bien perdu vingt degr\u00e9s par rapport \u00e0 hier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-28 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3204\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220304-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3204\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220304-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220304-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220304-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220304-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220304-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Mouettes tridactyles <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Il passe devant nous et va s\u2019accroupir au milieu des sternes en alerte qui volent autour de lui. On croise son regard quand il revient. On le salue bri\u00e8vement et il r\u00e9pond en espagnol&nbsp;: \u00ab&nbsp;Je ne comprends rien ici, je ne parle pas l\u2019anglais&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb. Marine poursuit dans sa langue et son visage s\u2019illumine. Il met une main \u00e0 plat sur son c\u0153ur, au-dessus de la dent de f\u00e9lin en pendentif \u00ab&nbsp;Je suis Paco, enchant\u00e9, et vous&nbsp;?\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Paco est guide nature autodidacte et tient une ferme dans la r\u00e9gion de S\u00e9ville. Il est ici en invit\u00e9 par des clients qu\u2019il a guid\u00e9s par le pass\u00e9 chez lui en Espagne. Il est appel\u00e9 par son groupe. Il revient quelques minutes plus tard avec un \u00e9norme jambon sec dans les bras, et s\u2019installe avec nous. \u00ab&nbsp;Vous savez quoi&nbsp;? Vous m\u2019avez plu, je vais vous faire go\u00fbter du vrai jambon.&nbsp;\u00bb. Il grimace aussit\u00f4t quand Gabriel lui apprend qu\u2019il est v\u00e9g\u00e9tarien. On explose de rire, lui aussi. \u00ab&nbsp;Tiens, je te coupe quand m\u00eame un tout petit bout&nbsp;\u00bb, dit-il en sortant la lame du fond du sac en plastique. Marine engloutit les tranches que Paco lui tend toutes les cinq secondes, comme pour alimenter la conversation. On \u00e9change nos coordonn\u00e9es, on ira s\u00fbrement dans sa r\u00e9gion un jour, peut-\u00eatre bien \u00e0 v\u00e9lo d\u2019ailleurs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-29 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3206\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220279-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3206\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220279-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220279-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220279-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220279-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220279-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3210\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220284-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3210\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220284-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220284-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220284-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220284-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220284-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous partons visiter le m\u00e9morial de Steilneset qui comm\u00e9more le triste Proc\u00e8s des sorci\u00e8res de Vard\u00f8 o\u00f9 91 personnes ont \u00e9t\u00e9 ex\u00e9cut\u00e9es pour sorcellerie au 17\u00e8me si\u00e8cle. On pose les v\u00e9los contre la cl\u00f4ture du champ attenant et montons dans ce long couloir de toile tendue, suspendu dans le vide par une ossature qui rappelle celle des s\u00e9choirs \u00e0 poissons. On ressort assez boulevers\u00e9s par cette installation qui t\u00e9moigne une fois de plus des d\u00e9g\u00e2ts engendr\u00e9s par les pens\u00e9es cloisonn\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-30 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3211\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_120103-1-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3211\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_120103-1-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_120103-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_120103-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_120103-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_120103-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_120103-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3212\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_115648-1-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3212\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_115648-1-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_115648-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_115648-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_115648-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_115648-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_115648-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-31 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3208\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220296-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3208\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220296-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220296-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220296-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220296-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220296-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>On rejoint nos v\u00e9los. Mais l\u2019un des deux est couch\u00e9 contre la cl\u00f4ture et semble int\u00e9resser les chevaux mass\u00e9s autour du guidon. \u00ab&nbsp;Mince, ils ont trouv\u00e9 la r\u00e9serve de pommes \u00e0 l\u2019avant&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb Marine repousse le museau de celui qui est en train de m\u00e2cher le sac \u00e0 dos qui les contient. Il tape du sabot comme pour r\u00e9clamer son dessert. Au prix du kilo en Norv\u00e8ge, on est bien d\u00e9\u00e7us de lui c\u00e9der le sac de fruits r\u00e9duits en compote. Pour une fois qu\u2019on laissait nos v\u00e9los sans crainte\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-32 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3213\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_121641-1-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3213\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_121641-1-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_121641-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_121641-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_121641-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_121641-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_121641-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3214\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_122155-1-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3214\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_122155-1-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_122155-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_122155-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_122155-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_122155-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220630_122155-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous passons ensuite une bonne partie de notre temps dans la salle d\u2019attente du port pour r\u00e9organiser nos sacoches en vue de l\u2019embarquement. Vers 16h30, la corne de brume du bateau annonce son entr\u00e9e \u00e0 Vard\u00f8&#8230;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-33 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"3215\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220307-2-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3215\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220307-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220307-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220307-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220307-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220307-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Bye bye Varanger ! Merci pour ces beaux souvenirs ! On reviendra, c&rsquo;est d\u00e9j\u00e0 une certitude&#8230;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>Un grand merci \u00e0 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jeanmarc.lustrat\">Jean-Marc L<\/a>., notre bonne \u00e9toile du Varanger et Laurent M. de la <a href=\"https:\/\/auvergne-rhone-alpes.lpo.fr\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">LPO<\/a>, pour nous avoir guid\u00e9s \u00e0 distance \u00e0 travers ce merveilleux terrain de d\u00e9couverte pour les ornithos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>O\u00f9 voir les oiseaux au Varanger : <a href=\"http:\/\/www.varanger.net\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">varanger.net<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>l&rsquo;atelier d&rsquo;architectes-ornithos de Vard\u00f8 : <a href=\"https:\/\/www.biotope.no\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">biotope.no<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Cet \u00e9pisode commence \u00e0 Neiden, petit village de Norv\u00e8ge, juste apr\u00e8s la fronti\u00e8re finlandaise o\u00f9 nous avons pass\u00e9 quelques jours au camping pour recharger les batteries. Jeudi 16 Juin, nous partons \u00e0 l\u2019assaut du Varanger. Les compteurs, enclench\u00e9s \u00e0 Boidans (dans le diois) \u00e0 la date du 10 F\u00e9vrier, indiquent aujourd\u2019hui 5300 km. Apr\u00e8s l\u2019\u00e9quinoxe [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3031","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3031","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3031"}],"version-history":[{"count":139,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3031\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8838,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3031\/revisions\/8838"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3031"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=3031"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=3031"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}