{"id":3275,"date":"2022-07-21T18:22:41","date_gmt":"2022-07-21T16:22:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/?p=3275"},"modified":"2024-07-30T17:20:17","modified_gmt":"2024-07-30T15:20:17","slug":"18-finnsnes-reipa-km-5787-km-6293","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/?p=3275","title":{"rendered":"18 &#8211; Finnsnes > Reip\u00e5 (km 5787 &#8211; km 6293)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n        <div id=\"map_ol3js_1\"\n       class=\"osm-map-container undefined\"\n             data-map_name=\"undefined\"\n             data-map=\"map_ol3js_1\"\n             style=\"width:100%;\n                    max-width:100%;\n                    height:450px;\n                    display:block;\n                    overflow:hidden;\n                    border:thin solid blue;\">\n          <div id=\"map_ol3js_1_popup\" class=\"ol-popup\">\n            <a href=\"#\" id=\"map_ol3js_1_popup-closer\" class=\"ol-popup-closer\"><\/a>\n            <div id=\"map_ol3js_1_popup-content\"><\/div>\n          <\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    \n\n\t\t\t\t<script type=\"text\/javascript\">\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['openlayer'] = \"open layer\";\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['openlayerAtStartup'] = \"open layer at startup\";\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['generateLink'] = \"link to this map with opened layers\";\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['shortDescription'] = \"short description\";\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['generatedShortCode'] = \"to get a text control link paste this code in your wordpress editor\";\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['closeLayer'] = \"close layer\";\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['cantGenerateLink'] = \"put this string in the existing map short code to control this map\";\n\t\t\t  <\/script>\n\n\n\t\t\t  <script type=\"text\/javascript\">\n\t\t\t  vectorM['map_ol3js_1'] = [];\n\t        \n        var raster = getTileLayer(\"osm\",\"NoKey\");\t\t\t\n\n\t\t\t  var map_ol3js_1 = new ol.Map({\n\t\t\t\tinteractions: ol.interaction.defaults.defaults({mouseWheelZoom:false}),\n\t\t\t\tlayers: [raster],\n\t\t\t\ttarget: \"map_ol3js_1\",\n\t\t\t\tview: new ol.View({\n\t\t\t\t  center: ol.proj.transform([6.378,58.213], \"EPSG:4326\", \"EPSG:3857\"),\n\t\t\t\t  zoom: 9\n\t\t\t\t})\n\t\t\t  });\n\t\t\t  \n    var style0 = {\n      \"Point\": [new ol.style.Style({\n\n          image: new ol.style.Icon({\n            anchor: [0.5, 41],\n            anchorXUnits: \"fraction\",\n            anchorYUnits: \"pixels\",\n            opacity: 0.75,\n            src: \"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/osm\/icons\/mic_red_pinother_02.png\"\n          })\n      })],\n\n      \"LineString\": [new ol.style.Style({\n        stroke: new ol.style.Stroke({\n          color: \"red\",\n          width: 8\n        })\n      })],\n      \"MultiLineString\": [new ol.style.Style({\n        stroke: new ol.style.Stroke({\n          color: \"red\",\n          width: 4\n        })\n      })]\n    };\n\t\t  var vectorL0 = new ol.layer.Vector({\n\t\t\t\tsource: new ol.source.Vector({\n\t\t\t\turl:\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/GPX\/GPX18.gpx\",\n\t\t\t\tformat: new ol.format.GPX({\n\t\t\t\t\textractStyles: false\n\t\t\t\t})\n\t\t\t}),\n\t\t\tzIndex: 92,\n\t\t\tstyle: function(feature, resolution) {return style0[feature.getGeometry().getType()];}\n\t\t  });\n\t\t  map_ol3js_1.addLayer(vectorL0);\n      var extension1 = ol.extent.createEmpty();\n      var curZoom1 = map_ol3js_1.getView().getZoom();\n\n      map_ol3js_1.getLayers().forEach(function(layer){\n         if(!layer.get(\"id\")) {     \n            layer.once(\"change\", function(e){\n               ol.extent.extend(extension1, (layer.getSource().getExtent()));\n               map_ol3js_1.getView().fit(extension1, {padding: [50, 50, 50, 50]});\n            });\n         }\n      });\n\n    \naddControls2Map(map_ol3js_1,0,1,3,0,5,6,7,0,1);\nosm_addPopupClickhandler(map_ol3js_1,  \"map_ol3js_1\"); \nosm_addMouseHover(map_ol3js_1); <\/script>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous retrouvons sur la route une v\u00e9g\u00e9tation abondante et fleurie, contrastant avec l\u2019ambiance de la toundra arctique. M\u00eame nos oreilles ne sont plus habitu\u00e9es aux chants d\u2019oiseaux forestiers, il faut r\u00e9-\u00e9talonner notre perception&nbsp;! L\u2019atmosph\u00e8re est lourde d\u2019humidit\u00e9 chaude, \u00e7a sent l\u2019orage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220511-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3311\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220511-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220511-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220511-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220511-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220511-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous nous arr\u00eatons au camping de Senja pour une pause de quelques jours le temps d&rsquo;\u00e9crire l&rsquo;\u00e9pisode du Varanger (publi\u00e9 avec un mois de d\u00e9calage, on s\u2019en excuse!). On pensait rattraper notre retard de sommeil mais on ne s&rsquo;est pas vraiment repos\u00e9s \u00e0 vrai dire. Il fallait voir Gabriel qui tombait de fatigue, mais ne pouvait ni faire la sieste dans la tente \u00e0 50\u00b0C, ni s&rsquo;\u00e9taler \u00e0 l&rsquo;ombre sans \u00eatre attaqu\u00e9 par les taons (bizarrement, Marine ne les attire pas). Malgr\u00e9 les prix exorbitants des campings (25\u20ac par nuit pour planter sa tente), la douche est payante. Il faut alors ruser avec la technique de la r\u00e9serve d\u2019eau chaude prise sur les mitigeurs des lavabos avant de s\u2019enfermer dans la cabine. On \u00e9chafaude une th\u00e9orie selon laquelle les douches des campings seraient aliment\u00e9es par deux r\u00e9servoirs diff\u00e9rents&nbsp;: le premier pr\u00e9chauff\u00e9 pour les bons clients, et le deuxi\u00e8me sp\u00e9cialement r\u00e9frig\u00e9r\u00e9, voire tout droit sorti de l\u2019eau de fonte des glaciers, de quoi vous sortir les oursins des poches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220702_210907-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3401\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220702_210907-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220702_210907-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220702_210907-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220702_210907-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220702_210907-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220702_210907-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Dimanche 3 juillet, c\u2019est l\u2019anniversaire de Gabriel&nbsp;! Une journ\u00e9e pourtant studieuse o\u00f9 nous essayons de rattraper le retard que nous prenons sur la r\u00e9daction de notre aventure. On \u00e9crit jusqu\u2019\u00e0 22 heures, et autant le lendemain, entre la cuisine tr\u00e8s fr\u00e9quent\u00e9e et la tente en surchauffe, mais cela ne suffit pas \u00e0 finaliser l\u2019\u00e9pisode du Varanger. On essaiera de le terminer en route\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous sommes surpris par l\u2019afflux de touristes. Il est tel, que la direction nous apprend qu\u2019ils refuseront probablement des clients \u00e0 partir de la mi-Juillet. On redoute la fr\u00e9quentation dans l\u2019archipel des Lofoten, destination touristique tr\u00e8s pris\u00e9e vers laquelle on se dirige en plein pic de vacanciers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>5 Juillet, nous parcourons l\u2019int\u00e9rieur de l\u2019\u00eele de Senja en direction du ferry de Gryllefjord, en T-shirt pour la premi\u00e8re fois (du voyage!) par grand beau temps. Paysages idylliques avec la mer au pied des montagnes. Seul b\u00e9mol, et grande nouveaut\u00e9 de ce nouveau biotope&nbsp;: les insectes&nbsp;! Les taons et les mouches nous poursuivent sans merci. Mais nous avons trouv\u00e9 une parade&nbsp;: acc\u00e9lerer&nbsp;! Les mouches nous \u00ab&nbsp;l\u00e2chent&nbsp;\u00bb \u00e0 partir de 15 km\/h mais c\u2019est une autre affaire pour les taons qui voyagent gratuitement sur nos sacoches, et volent aussi vite que nous p\u00e9dalons. Nous n\u2019arrivons \u00e0 les semer qu\u2019\u00e0 partir de 25 km\/h, \u00e0 l\u2019occasion des descentes. En revanche dans les mont\u00e9es, on se fait mordre, et nos r\u00e9flexes de d\u00e9fense nous font parfois perdre l\u2019\u00e9quilibre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3402\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220705_105606-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3402\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220705_105606-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220705_105606-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220705_105606-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220705_105606-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220705_105606-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220705_105606-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3312\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220515-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3312\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220515-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220515-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220515-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220515-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220515-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220515-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3313\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220517-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3313\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220517-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220517-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220517-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220517-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220517-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220517-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3314\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220520-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3314\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220520-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220520-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220520-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220520-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220520-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220520-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"3468\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210898-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3468\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210898-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210898-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210898-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210898-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210898-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210898-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210898-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Un convoi ininterrompu de v\u00e9hicules nous annonce que nous arrivons \u00e0 destination. L\u2019acc\u00e8s au ferry de Gryllefjord est embouteill\u00e9 par les camping car, les vans et les voitures \u00e0 caravanes. Les premiers ont dormi sur le parking du ferry pour pouvoir embarquer \u00e0 coup s\u00fbr. C\u2019est le sort qui attend les plus \u00e9loign\u00e9s dans la file d\u2019attente. Nous, cyclistes sommes exempt\u00e9s non seulement d\u2019attente mais en plus c\u2019est gratuit. Nous avons un petit plaisir coupable \u00e0 passer devant tout ce monde, toutes ces personnes qui nous ont doubl\u00e9s auparavant. C\u2019est un peu la m\u00eame sensation que de retrouver une voiture au feu rouge en ville. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous passons deux ou trois heures \u00e0 attendre (nous n\u2019avions pas bien compris les horaires) assis \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 d\u2019une bande de trois motards. Trois coll\u00e8gues allemands de la m\u00eame usine pr\u00e8s de Hanovre, s\u2019alimentant d&rsquo;apr\u00e8s eux quasiment uniquement de chocolat et de bi\u00e8re. Ils ont \u00ab&nbsp;fait&nbsp;\u00bb le Cap Nord en une dizaine de jours et sont d\u00e9j\u00e0 sur le retour. Ils nous donnent des conseils pour obtenir des bi\u00e8res pas ch\u00e8res en Norv\u00e8ge, que l\u2019on \u00e9coute d\u2019une oreille. L\u2019impression d\u2019\u00eatre noy\u00e9s \u00e0 la masse des touristes qui ne sont l\u00e0 que pour quelques semaines, et qui ont br\u00fbl\u00e9 beaucoup de carburant pour venir, nous laisse une certaine amertume.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le ferry ouvre sa grande gueule et nous engloutit en premier, petits cyclistes et pi\u00e9tons. Nous retrouvons \u00e0 bord du bateau Jannis et Jenny avec leur petite Frida, un couple de Kiel en Allemagne, rencontr\u00e9s au camping pr\u00e9c\u00e9dent. Co\u00efncidence extraordinaire, nous avons une connaissance en commun&nbsp;: le couple en Iveco 4&#215;4 magirus rencontr\u00e9 au Varanger&nbsp;! Il s\u2019\u00e9taient crois\u00e9s dans un atelier m\u00e9canique sp\u00e9cialis\u00e9 dans la r\u00e9gion de Flensburg en Allemagne. Jannis a l\u2019oeil pour rep\u00e9rer les baleines, il vient nous pr\u00e9venir qu\u2019il y en a une \u00e0 l\u2019arri\u00e8re du bateau, mais nous arrivons trop tard pour l\u2019apercevoir, dommage. C\u2019est une r\u00e9gion o\u00f9 nous avons toutes nos chances d\u2019en rencontrer. Quelques Guillemots de Tro\u00efl et Macareux moines forment de petits points \u00e0 la surface d\u2019une mer d\u2019huile et nous arrivons \u00e0 Andenes. Le calme avant la temp\u00eate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3315\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220526-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3315\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220526-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220526-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220526-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220526-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220526-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220526-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3316\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220530-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3316\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220530-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220530-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220530-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220530-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220530-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220530-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3317\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220536-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3317\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220536-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220536-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220536-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220536-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220536-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220536-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3319\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220541-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3319\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220541-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220541-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220541-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220541-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220541-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220541-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3318\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220539-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3318\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220539-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220539-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220539-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220539-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220539-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220539-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"760\" data-id=\"3405\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_223656-1024x760.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3405\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_223656-1024x760.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_223656-300x223.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_223656-768x570.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_223656-1536x1140.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_223656-2048x1520.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Ce soir des rafales violentes sont annonc\u00e9es et nous regardons la carte pour trouver un bivouac abrit\u00e9 du vent, suite aux mauvaises exp\u00e9riences pr\u00e9c\u00e9dentes. La nuit est tr\u00e8s agit\u00e9e malgr\u00e9 la protection d\u2019un grand talus au pied d\u2019une falaise faisant rempart au vent. La pluie s\u2019est invit\u00e9e, le temps change tr\u00e8s rapidement, comme en montagne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3320\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220545-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3320\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220545-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220545-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220545-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220545-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220545-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220545-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>6 Juillet, nous p\u00e9dalons jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Bleik et son petit port de p\u00eache. La plage de sable blanc de la r\u00e9serve naturelle fait face \u00e0 une ile de forme conique, refuge d\u2019une colonie de pr\u00e8s de 80 000 Macareux moine. En pla\u00e7ant les jumelles dessus, on voit les oiseaux virevolter tels une nu\u00e9e d\u2019abeille autour d\u2019une ruche.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-4 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"3321\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220559-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3321\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220559-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220559-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220559-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220559-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220559-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220559-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3322\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220578-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3322\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220578-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220578-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220578-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220578-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220578-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220578-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1637\" height=\"2000\" data-id=\"3323\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220581-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3323\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220581-2.jpg 1637w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220581-2-246x300.jpg 246w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220581-2-838x1024.jpg 838w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220581-2-768x938.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220581-2-1257x1536.jpg 1257w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1637px) 100vw, 1637px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>L\u2019apr\u00e8s midi est tr\u00e8s humide, nous roulons sous la pluie jusqu\u2019\u00e0 une aire de repos qui s\u2019av\u00e8re ferm\u00e9e et tr\u00e8s expos\u00e9e au vent. On nous d\u00e9panne gentiment d\u2019un litre d\u2019eau et on nous indique un endroit plus propice \u00e0 moins d\u2019un kilom\u00e8tre. \u00ab&nbsp;Vous verrez, la plage est prot\u00e9g\u00e9e, et il semble qu\u2019il y ait d\u00e9j\u00e0 des tentes install\u00e9es l\u00e0-bas&nbsp;\u00bb. On prend notre courage \u00e0 deux pattes et on se remet \u00e0 p\u00e9daler sous la pluie. La plage est effectivement prot\u00e9g\u00e9e mais les emplacements plats sont d\u00e9j\u00e0 pris par d\u2019autres cyclos. Nous prenons place sur le parking en amont, entre les camping-cars. Nous avons \u00e0 peine commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 planter la tente qu\u2019un magnifique camion Iveco blanc fait son apparition devant nous. Nous rencontrons Sandrine et Christophe, deux nomades qui habitent depuis deux ans dans leur v\u00e9hicule et travaillent \u00e0 bord et \u00e0 distance. Nous sommes invit\u00e9s \u00ab&nbsp;au chaud&nbsp;\u00bb et re\u00e7us comme des rois pour un ap\u00e9ro partag\u00e9 prolong\u00e9 jusqu\u2019\u00e0 minuit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le lendemain, nous devons attendre que la pluie se calme pour tout plier. A 14h, nous donnons l\u2019assaut, apr\u00e8s un dernier (tr\u00e8s bon) caf\u00e9 avec nos h\u00f4tes. Le vent est de travers, la pluie ne cesse pas de toute la journ\u00e9e. La vue est bouch\u00e9e, nous ne pourrons pas prendre le joli d\u00e9tour que nous conseillaient Christophe et Sandrine. On a froid, on parle peu car on ne s\u2019entend pas avec le vent, et on avance, chacun concentr\u00e9 sur sa propre gestion des \u00e9l\u00e9ments. Nous trouvons refuge sous le pont de Risoyhamn. Tout ruisselle, il pleut sans discontinuer jusqu\u2019au lendemain matin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220707_183225-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3406\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220707_183225-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220707_183225-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220707_183225-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220707_183225-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220707_183225-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Dans la nuit, nous avons \u00e9chang\u00e9 avec un couple de voyageurs qui se trouvent \u00e0 7km de notre pont. Nous \u00e9tions entr\u00e9s en contact avec Amande et Vincent au mois d\u2019Avril, lorsqu\u2019ils faisait halte chez les m\u00eames h\u00f4tes que nous au mois de Mars, \u00e0 D\u00fcmmer see en Allemagne. Nous les rejoignons en fin de matin\u00e9e dans leur maison de location. Nous faisons la connaissance de leur petite famille&nbsp;: Louison et Gabin, 3 et 5 ans. C\u2019est aussi l\u2019occasion de prendre une pr\u00e9cieuse douche chaude et de partager un repas ensemble.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>On repart en v\u00e9lo, sous le crachin norv\u00e9gien. Puis la pluie s\u2019arr\u00eate et un jeune Courlis corlieu appara\u00eet dans le foss\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-5 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3325\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220588-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3325\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220588-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220588-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220588-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220588-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220588-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220588-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3326\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220608-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3326\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220608-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220608-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220608-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220608-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220608-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220608-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3328\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220614-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3328\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220614-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220614-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220614-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220614-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220614-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220614-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>La pluie reprend de plus belle et nous d\u00e9cidons d&rsquo;\u00e9courter l&rsquo;\u00e9tape \u00e0 Forfjord pour limiter les d\u00e9g\u00e2ts. La tente est plant\u00e9e quelques minutes avant que le grain qui blanchit le paysage nous atteigne finalement. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-6 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3410\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220708_195544-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3410\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220708_195544-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220708_195544-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220708_195544-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220708_195544-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220708_195544-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3411\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220709_081342-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3411\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220709_081342-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220709_081342-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220709_081342-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220709_081342-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220709_081342-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Arriv\u00e9s \u00e0 Sortland le 9 juillet, nous faisons un ravitaillement et un changement de pneu pour Marine. C\u2019est le troisi\u00e8me pneu que nous changeons, les \u00ab&nbsp;marathon plus&nbsp;\u00bb de Schwalbe ont manifestement un d\u00e9faut qui provoque des hernies. Gabriel avait d\u00fb en changer deux fois en Allemagne et au Danemark, raison pour laquelle Marine transportait un pneu neuf \u00ab\u00a0au cas o\u00f9\u00a0\u00bb depuis le d\u00e9but de la Su\u00e8de.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous \u00e9tablissons le bivouac dans un petit jardin public \u00e0 l\u2019abri des regard au niveau du pont de Stokmarknes, en surplomb du port et de curieuses sculptures de granit poli.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-7 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3332\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220639-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3332\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220639-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220639-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220639-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220639-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220639-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220639-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3330\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220631-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3330\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220631-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220631-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220631-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220631-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220631-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220631-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220641-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3333\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220641-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220641-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220641-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220641-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220641-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220641-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"720\" height=\"960\" data-id=\"3413\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220709_172152.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3413\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220709_172152.jpg 720w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220709_172152-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Dimanche 10 Juillet, Marine n\u2019est pas en forme ce matin. La nuit \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 du pont n\u2019a pas \u00e9t\u00e9 reposante. Trop bruyante\u2026 Nous rentrons officiellement sur l\u2019archipel des Lofoten par le ferry de Melbu \u00e0 Fiskeb\u00f8l. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La fatigue des derniers jours nous fait choisir l\u2019itin\u00e9raire le plus direct et nous prenons les raccourcis d\u00e8s que possible, pour \u00e9courter l\u2019\u00e9pisode Lofoten. Trop touristique pour nous. Le contraste est vraiment important avec le Varanger, o\u00f9 nous \u00e9tions tranquilles, avec les oiseaux, et dans les grands espaces.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-8 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3334\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220645-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3334\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220645-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220645-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220645-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220645-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220645-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220645-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3335\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220648-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3335\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220648-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220648-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220648-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220648-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220648-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220648-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Sur la route, chaque croisement avec un camping-car, accentue notre malaise. On a pourtant connu des p\u00e9riodes avec beaucoup de trafic routier, dans les zones urbaines ou les grands axes. Mais cette fr\u00e9quentation est diff\u00e9rente, ce ne sont pas des \u00ab&nbsp;locaux&nbsp;\u00bb et il y a quelque chose d\u2019irritant \u00e0 partager l\u2019espace avec ces v\u00e9hicules imposants, qui doublent sans prendre en consid\u00e9ration leur encombrement. C\u2019est un peu comme quand on en sue pour arriver au sommet d\u2019une montagne et que l\u2019on d\u00e9couvre stup\u00e9faits que l\u2019endroit est envahi par des groupes mont\u00e9s en voiture sortant les bi\u00e8res de la glaci\u00e8re. A consid\u00e9rer les choses de cette mani\u00e8re, nous nous rendons compte que nous cr\u00e9ons de la frustration, et que ces pens\u00e9es n\u00e9gatives nous mettent des \u0153ill\u00e8res. Nous r\u00e9alisons que la fatigue et le mauvais temps y sont pour beaucoup. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210882-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3466\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210882-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210882-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210882-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210882-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210882-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210882-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Heureusement, le 11 juillet, nous avons quelques \u00e9claircies. Nous sillonnons la r\u00e9gion dans des paysages de moyenne montagne qui nous rappellent les massifs autour de Grenoble. C\u2019est un peu comme parcourir les sommets du Beaufortain ou de l\u2019Oisans, depuis une piste cyclable sans difficult\u00e9 sportive, avec une mer bleue au pied des falaises. On comprend le succ\u00e8s de cet itin\u00e9raire cyclable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-9 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3336\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220662-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3336\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220662-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220662-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220662-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220662-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220662-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220662-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3337\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220676-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3337\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220676-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220676-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220676-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220676-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220676-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220676-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3338\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220682-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3338\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220682-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220682-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220682-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220682-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220682-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220682-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3339\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220693-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3339\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220693-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220693-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220693-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220693-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220693-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220693-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3340\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220700-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3340\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220700-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220700-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220700-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220700-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220700-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220700-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3341\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220709-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3341\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220709-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220709-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220709-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220709-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220709-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220709-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous d\u00e9passons les 6000 kilom\u00e8tres au compteur&nbsp;dans cette belle r\u00e9gion et par grand soleil&nbsp;! Nos c\u0153urs se sont r\u00e9chauff\u00e9s et le moral est remont\u00e9 en fl\u00e8che&nbsp;! Nous faisons halte dans un camping pour prendre une douche comme cela se pratique parfois, moyennant quelques couronnes. Mais c\u2019\u00e9tait sans prendre en compte l\u2019effet Lofoten&nbsp;! \u00ab&nbsp;Si vous voulez juste prendre juste la douche, c\u2019est 75 couronnes par personne.\u00bb <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Soixante quinze couronnes. Pour un jeton de cinq minutes. Par personne. Soit sept euros cinquante. Gabriel n\u2019en revient pas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00ab&nbsp;Sept euros cinquante, tu te rends compte, c\u2019est le prix d\u2019un bo bun chez Christian&nbsp;\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00ab&nbsp;Sept euros cinquante, tu te rends compte, c\u2019est le prix d\u2019une margarita chez Fabio&nbsp;\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Et ainsi de suite pendant toute la mont\u00e9e du col de Leknes\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous atterrissons pr\u00e8s de Kilan, dans une aire de retournement prot\u00e9g\u00e9e du vent par des talus en contrebas d\u2019un grand marais. La surface est d\u00e9tremp\u00e9e, couverte d\u2019orchid\u00e9es et nous plantons la tente sur l\u2019herbe d\u00e9j\u00e0 couch\u00e9e par de pr\u00e9c\u00e9dents occupants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-10 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3331\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220638-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3331\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220638-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220638-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220638-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220638-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220638-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220638-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3342\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220726-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3342\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220726-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220726-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220726-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220726-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220726-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220726-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Mardi 12 Juillet. Gabriel rentre en h\u00e2te dans la tente prendre l\u2019appareil photo et r\u00e9veille Marine&nbsp;: \u00ab&nbsp;Y a la poule des marais, le truc des saules en haut&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb. Nous avions effectivement rep\u00e9r\u00e9 des crottes de Lagop\u00e8de des saules la veille. S\u00e9ance photo d\u2019un adulte qui rameute ses deux petits loin des cyclopith\u00e8ques, sur fond de deux Courlis corlieu perch\u00e9s sur leur caillou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-11 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3343\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220737-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3343\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220737-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220737-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220737-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220737-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220737-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220737-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Lagop\u00e8de des saules <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3344\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220749-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3344\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220749-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220749-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220749-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220749-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220749-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220749-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3346\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220806-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3346\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220806-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220806-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220806-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220806-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220806-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220806-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3417\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_702-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3417\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_702-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_702-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_702-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_702-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_702.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3418\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_230-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3418\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_230-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_230-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_230-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_230-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_230.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Courlis corlieu <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3416\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_509-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3416\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_509-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_509-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_509-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_509-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_211451_509.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Courlis corlieu <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous p\u00e9dalons vers le Sud, \u00e0 la recherche d\u2019un camping, car nous en avons grandement besoin. Les deux seuls que nous trouvons sur notre route sont soit trop chers, soit complets (m\u00eame pour un emplacement de tente). Qu\u2019\u00e0 cela ne tienne, nous ferons notre lessive et notre toilette dans le prochain ruisseau, au pied d\u2019une grande falaise \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9cart de la circulation. Un endroit calme avec toutes les facilit\u00e9s, qui vaut tous les campings du monde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-12 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3348\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220813-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3348\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220813-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220813-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220813-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220813-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220813-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220813-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3349\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220826-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3349\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220826-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220826-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220826-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220826-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220826-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220826-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3350\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220840-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3350\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220840-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220840-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220840-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220840-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220840-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220840-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3351\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220841-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3351\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220841-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220841-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220841-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220841-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220841-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220841-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-13 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3432\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_140918-1-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3432\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_140918-1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_140918-1-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_140918-1-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_140918-1-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_140918-1-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3433\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_144553-3-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3433\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_144553-3-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_144553-3-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_144553-3-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_144553-3-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_144553-3-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3434\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_123645-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3434\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_123645-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_123645-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_123645-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_123645-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_123645-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Tout propres et satisfaits, nous \u00e9tablissons le bivouac du 12 Juillet dans un petit amphith\u00e9\u00e2tre de pierre s\u00e8che en belv\u00e9d\u00e8re sur la mer, \u00e0 l\u2019abri du vent et de la pluie annonc\u00e9s. L\u2019horizon se noircit, la brise se rapproche \u00e0 vue d\u2019oeil. Nous profitons de ces derniers moments de calme pour manger sur les gradins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-14 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"3467\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210874-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210874-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210874-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210874-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210874-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210874-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210874-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1658395210874-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"3435\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_170511-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3435\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_170511-scaled.jpg 1920w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_170511-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_170511-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_170511-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220712_170511-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>On prenait tranquillement notre couscous dos \u00e0 la mer quand Gabriel a dit \u00ab&nbsp;dis-donc, pour avoir une chance de voir des baleines, faudrait peut-\u00eatre se donner la peine de changer de sens pour regarder la mer&nbsp;!\u00bb Et l\u00e0 \u2026 \u00ab&nbsp;Pfffff&nbsp;\u00bb le souffle et le dos d&rsquo;un rorqual ! Une fraction de seconde, et \u00e0 vingt m\u00e8tres de la falaise, un instant magique. On a attendu qu&rsquo;il refasse surface, mais bien trop loin pour la photo. Probablement un Petit rorqual, mais sans certitude : on est compl\u00e8tement novices en c\u00e9tac\u00e9s ! Une esp\u00e8ce encore chass\u00e9e en Norv\u00e8ge\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mercredi 13 Juillet. Nous avons d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de quitter les Lofoten en passant par les derni\u00e8res \u00eeles de l\u2019archipel plut\u00f4t que de rejoindre le continent tout de suite. Le ferry nous emm\u00e8ne \u00e0 V\u00e6r\u00f8y en deux heures, gratuitement, et toujours avec la priorit\u00e9 sur les v\u00e9hicules motoris\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-15 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3353\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220860-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3353\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220860-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220860-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220860-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220860-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220860-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220860-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3355\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220879-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3355\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220879-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220879-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220879-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220879-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220879-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220879-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3356\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220890-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3356\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220890-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220890-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220890-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220890-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220890-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220890-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"3357\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220892-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3357\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220892-scaled.jpg 1707w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220892-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220892-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220892-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220892-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220892-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3358\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220893-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3358\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220893-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220893-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220893-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220893-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220893-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220893-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3359\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220897-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3359\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220897-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220897-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220897-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220897-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220897-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220897-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous explorons l\u2019\u00eele jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Nordland sur la fa\u00e7ade la plus expos\u00e9e au vent. Des rafales \u00e0 d\u00e9corner des rennes. Cela ne nous emp\u00eachera pas d\u2019observer quelques phoques qui jouent \u00e0 cache-museau sous l\u2019eau, pr\u00e8s des rochers de la plage. Ils semblent nous regarder avec curiosit\u00e9, apparaissant et disparaissant de la surface par intermittence. Une belle rencontre&nbsp;! <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-16 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3476\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_120342-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3476\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_120342-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_120342-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_120342-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_120342-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_120342-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3364\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220930-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3364\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220930-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220930-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220930-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220930-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220930-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220930-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3363\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220922-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3363\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220922-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220922-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220922-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220922-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220922-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220922-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3360\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220908-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3360\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220908-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220908-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220908-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220908-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220908-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220908-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3361\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220912-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3361\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220912-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220912-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220912-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220912-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220912-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220912-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3362\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220918-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3362\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220918-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220918-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220918-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220918-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220918-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220918-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3478\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_160332-1-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3478\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_160332-1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_160332-1-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_160332-1-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_160332-1-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_160332-1-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3477\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_134107-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3477\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_134107-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_134107-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_134107-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_134107-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220713_134107-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Manifestement, il est impossible de planter notre tente ici avec un tel vent. Nous rebroussons chemin vers le centre de l\u2019\u00eele. Petite halte et sieste r\u00e9paratrice au pied de l\u2019ancienne \u00e9glise, et c\u2019est reparti en sens inverse. Les cotes sont abruptes. On effectue sur V\u00e6r\u00f8y tout le d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 que l\u2019on a pas fait dans le reste de l\u2019archipel. Nous plantons la tente sous la pluie (\u00e7a devient notre quotidien), \u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e d\u2019un tunnel condamn\u00e9 \u00e0 la circulation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220714_213118-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3447\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220714_213118-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220714_213118-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220714_213118-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220714_213118-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220714_213118-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Lors d\u2019une \u00e9claircie, nous sortons de notre maison et constatons que tous les oiseaux du coin en font autant. Les Pipits farlouses reprennent le nourrissage de leur nich\u00e9e, les b\u00e9b\u00e9s traquets motteux r\u00e9clament la b\u00e9cqu\u00e9e, et les sizerins sizerinnent en coeur avec les Verdiers d\u2019Europe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-17 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3365\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220972-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3365\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220972-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220972-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220972-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220972-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220972-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220972-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pipit farlouse<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3369\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230027-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3369\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230027-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230027-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230027-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230027-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230027-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230027-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pipit farlouse <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3366\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220976-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3366\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220976-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220976-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220976-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220976-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220976-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220976-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Tarin des aulnes <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3367\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220984-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3367\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220984-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220984-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220984-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220984-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220984-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1220984-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Sizerin flamm\u00e9 <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3371\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230056-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3371\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230056-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230056-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230056-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230056-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230056-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230056-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pipit farlouse <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3373\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230071-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3373\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230071-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230071-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230071-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230071-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230071-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230071-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Traquet motteux, juv\u00e9nile <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3383\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230201-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3383\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230201-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230201-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230201-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230201-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230201-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230201-2-2048x1366.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Verdier d&rsquo;Europe <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>L\u2019\u00eele nous pla\u00eet&nbsp;: moins touristique (le prix du ferry pour les v\u00e9hicules serait une explication), une v\u00e9g\u00e9tation rase, des for\u00eats tr\u00e8s localis\u00e9es, falaises et pierriers abrupts. Certaines parties de l\u2019\u00eele ne sont accessibles qu\u2019\u00e0 pied ou en bateau. Comme le village de M\u00e5stad, village de p\u00eacheurs abandonn\u00e9 dans les ann\u00e9es 50. On d\u00e9cide de rester une nuit de plus sur l\u2019\u00eele pour randonner sur les sommets. Pas de bol, on est dans le brouillard au terme des 300 m\u00e8tres d\u2019ascension. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220714_160353-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3440\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220714_160353-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220714_160353-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220714_160353-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220714_160353-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220714_160353-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Cela aura eu le m\u00e9rite de r\u00e9veiller les muscles que l\u2019on ne sollicite plus \u00e0 v\u00e9lo. On se l\u00e8ve le lendemain tout courbatur\u00e9s. Nous prenons la direction du port et nous r\u00e9fugions dans la salle d\u2019attente car la pluie a repris de plus belle. Deux fran\u00e7ais occupent d\u00e9j\u00e0 l\u2019espace. Ils se pr\u00e9sentent comme des \u00ab&nbsp;habitants de la terre&nbsp;\u00bb et nous racontent tous leurs exploits de baroudeurs. Ils ont \u00ab&nbsp;fait&nbsp;\u00bb les Etats Unis, ils ont \u00ab&nbsp;fait&nbsp;\u00bb la Patagonie&#8230; La conversation s\u2019ouvre bri\u00e8vement vers nous&nbsp;: \u00ab&nbsp;Et vous, vous voyagez \u00e0 v\u00e9lo ? Nous on a fait la Corse de long en large, c\u2019\u00e9tait du grand n\u2019importe quoi&#8230;&nbsp;\u00bb. \u00ab&nbsp;Vous suivez les oiseaux&nbsp;? Nous on a vu des Macareux \u00e0 deux m\u00e8tres&nbsp;\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-18 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3374\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230095-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3374\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230095-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230095-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230095-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230095-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230095-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230095-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3375\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230104-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230104-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230104-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230104-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230104-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230104-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230104-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3377\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230133-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3377\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230133-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230133-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230133-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230133-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230133-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230133-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Curieusement, depuis que la p\u00e9riode touristique a commenc\u00e9, nous rencontrons \u00e9norm\u00e9ment de voyageurs qui nous racontent leurs aventures dans de longs monologues sans chercher l\u2019\u00e9change, juste une oreille attentive. Au final, est-ce qu\u2019on ne fait pas la m\u00eame chose en partageant notre voyage \u00e0 travers ces textes&nbsp;?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous appr\u00e9cions d\u2019autant plus les rencontres humaines o\u00f9 il y a du partage, comme c\u2019\u00e9tait le cas dans cet \u00e9pisode avec Sandrine et Christophe, Amande et Vincent, Janis et Jenny\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le voyage en ferry est synonyme de repos. Nous avons quatre heures devant nous avant d\u2019arriver \u00e0 Bod\u00f8 sur le continent. Ce n\u2019\u00e9tait pas calcul\u00e9, mais on \u00e9chappe par la m\u00eame occasion \u00e0 un gros \u00e9pisode pluvieux. Encore la pluie, toujours la pluie. On pr\u00e9f\u00e8re encore la neige et le froid, plus faciles \u00e0 g\u00e9rer en itin\u00e9rance, \u00e0 l\u2019humidit\u00e9 qui s\u2019empare de tout.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220715_150517-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3441\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220715_150517-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220715_150517-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220715_150517-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220715_150517-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220715_150517-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous bivouaquons sur les hauteurs de Bod\u00f8, pr\u00e8s d\u2019un grand parking au d\u00e9part d\u2019une randonn\u00e9e, au prix d\u2019une mont\u00e9e \u00e9puisante. Tout est tremp\u00e9. On plante en h\u00e2te la tente sous une grosse averse qui se d\u00e9clenche \u00e0 la deuxi\u00e8me sardine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>16 Juillet. R\u00e9veil sous la pluie, p\u00e9dalage sous la pluie, bivouac sous la pluie. Et de la casse sur le v\u00e9lo de Marine : un des oeillets de fixation du porte bagage arri\u00e8re s&rsquo;est dessoud\u00e9. Heureusement qu&rsquo;il y a un deuxi\u00e8me oeillet de disponible. Moyennant un nouveau r\u00e9glage du porte bagage, c&rsquo;est jouable. La m\u00eame avarie \u00e9tait survenue sur le v\u00e9lo de Gabriel en Su\u00e8de.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-19 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3444\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_162305-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3444\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_162305-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_162305-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_162305-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_162305-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_162305-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3445\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_162728-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3445\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_162728-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_162728-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_162728-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_162728-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_162728-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Deux bonnes nouvelles cependant :<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>1- on a r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 faire s\u00e9cher la tente pendant une fen\u00eatre de m\u00e9t\u00e9o tr\u00e8s courte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_131533-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3442\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_131533-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_131533-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_131533-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_131533-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_131533-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>2- on s\u2019est fait offrir un th\u00e9 par un propri\u00e9taire d\u2019h\u00f4tel ferm\u00e9 car r\u00e9quisitionn\u00e9 pour les r\u00e9fugi\u00e9s ukrainiens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_154407-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3443\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_154407-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_154407-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_154407-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_154407-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220716_154407-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>17 Juillet. Pluie ininterrompue. R\u00e9veil sous la pluie, pliage sous la pluie, p\u00e9dalage sous la pluie. D\u00e9jeuner dans un abribus color\u00e9 et bivouac dans un abri rep\u00e9r\u00e9 sur la carte&nbsp;: au bout d\u2019un chemin raide et glissant qui pr\u00e9c\u00e8de l\u2019\u00e9preuve d\u2019un marais spongieux, se trouve une pagode de m\u00e9ditation install\u00e9e sur la berge d\u2019un petit lac couvert de n\u00e9nuphars. Faute de place \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur, car le lieu est fr\u00e9quent\u00e9 par les randonneurs, nous dormons sous l\u2019avanc\u00e9e de toit. Nous faisons la connaissance de Sandra et Jens, deux courageux marcheurs au long cours, en direction du Cap Nord.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-20 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3379\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230142-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3379\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230142-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230142-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230142-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230142-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230142-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230142-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3380\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230146-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3380\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230146-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230146-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230146-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230146-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230146-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230146-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" data-id=\"3378\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230139-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3378\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230139-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230139-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230139-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230139-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230139-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/1230139-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3449\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220718_085918-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3449\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220718_085918-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220718_085918-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220718_085918-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220718_085918-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220718_085918-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3448\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_213219-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3448\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_213219-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_213219-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_213219-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_213219-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_213219-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3450\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_152614-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_152614-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_152614-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_152614-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_152614-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_152614-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3455\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_123735-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3455\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_123735-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_123735-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_123735-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_123735-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_123735-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3457\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_123729-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3457\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_123729-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_123729-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_123729-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_123729-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_123729-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3454\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_114809-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3454\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_114809-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_114809-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_114809-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_114809-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220717_114809-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Apr\u00e8s une bonne nuit, nous retraversons le marais d\u00e9tremp\u00e9 pour rejoindre la route. En ayant pris soin cette fois-ci de d\u00e9charger les v\u00e9los pour ne pas les salir dans la tourbe. Excellente nouvelle, la tente est s\u00e8che, et le camping o\u00f9 nous voulons nous arr\u00eater n\u2019est plus qu\u2019\u00e0 vingt kilom\u00e8tres&nbsp;! <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-21 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3453\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220719_190439-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220719_190439-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220719_190439-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220719_190439-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220719_190439-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220719_190439-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3452\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220719_185251-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220719_185251-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220719_185251-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220719_185251-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220719_185251-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220719_185251-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous arrivons ext\u00e9nu\u00e9s, et le prix s\u2019av\u00e8re plus cher qu\u2019annonc\u00e9 sur internet mais cela n\u2019a plus d\u2019importance. Les prix sont rarement tr\u00e8s clairs sur notre parcours en Norv\u00e8ge, que ce soit dans les supermarch\u00e9s ou dans les campings, un certain flou est entretenu sur le prix des choses (un brin aga\u00e7ant). Un groupe de 18 fran\u00e7ais arrive en d\u00e9but de soir\u00e9e. Ils ont \u00e9t\u00e9 refus\u00e9s dans les autres campings pour leur premi\u00e8re nuit en Norv\u00e8ge. On sympathise avec les organisateurs de cette excursion en scandinavie avec quinze adolescents de r\u00e9gion parisienne. La cuisine o\u00f9 nous nous \u00e9tions r\u00e9fugi\u00e9s est bond\u00e9e et bien anim\u00e9e tout \u00e0 coup. Ce soir c\u2019est Burger Kefta pour tout le monde. \u00ab&nbsp;comment on pr\u00e9pare les Kefta&nbsp;? Tu fais chauffer de l\u2019huile et t\u2019envoies. Toi tu coupes les oignons et on laisse propre derri\u00e8re, les gars&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb Cela transporte Gabriel dans les bons souvenirs de stages aux Gl\u00e9nans, \u00e0 encadrer des jeunes des banlieues d\u00e9favoris\u00e9es. \u00ab&nbsp;Ah la la, \u00e7a sent le Courtepaille ici, vas-y&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Apr\u00e8s une nuit r\u00e9paratrice, il est temps de se mettre au travail pour \u00e9crire. On extirpe l\u2019ordinateur de sa housse, on l\u2019allume\u2026 et mauvaise surprise&nbsp;: l\u2019\u00e9cran est cass\u00e9&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-22 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3458\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_193503-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3458\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_193503-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_193503-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_193503-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_193503-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_193503-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Probablement trop compress\u00e9 par les sangles de maintien des v\u00e9los pendant une travers\u00e9e de ferry\u2026 On r\u00e9dige cet \u00e9pisode tant bien que mal, avec un \u00e9cran qui se r\u00e9duit d\u2019heure en heure, progressivement gagn\u00e9 par les d\u00e9fauts d\u2019affichage. Nous ne pourrons probablement pas \u00e9crire le prochain article dans de bonnes conditions\u2026 Il nous reste encore les t\u00e9l\u00e9phones portables pour donner des nouvelles. Mais nous avons perdu l\u00e0 un pr\u00e9cieux outil qui nous permettait notamment de d\u00e9charger les photos et de g\u00e9rer correctement notre site. Quid de la suite&nbsp;?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mercredi 20 juillet. Nous attendons avec impatience la visite de Marine et Damien, deux cyclos qui voyagent depuis la Mayenne avec leurs deux chiens en carriole. Et pas des petits gabarits&nbsp;! Tr\u00e8s charg\u00e9s, avec tout le d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 de la c\u00f4te Ouest norv\u00e9gienne dans les pattes, ils ont \u00e9norm\u00e9ment de m\u00e9rite. On voit passer six cyclistes \u00e0 sacoches dans la matin\u00e9e, mais ce n\u2019est pas eux. Quand plus tard arrivent deux cyclos avec une remorque chacun, on les reconna\u00eet tout de suite&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-23 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3460\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_104938-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3460\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_104938-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_104938-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_104938-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_104938-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_104938-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3459\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_103949-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3459\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_103949-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_103949-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_103949-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_103949-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_103949-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3461\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_104923-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3461\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_104923-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_104923-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_104923-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_104923-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/IMG_20220720_104923-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>On partage un caf\u00e9 ensemble, ravis de se rencontrer et de s\u2019encourager pour la suite. On les regarde repartir sous la pluie, en leur souhaitant du soleil pour la visite des Lofoten. On pense tout bas au sort similaire qui nous attend demain matin.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Nous retrouvons sur la route une v\u00e9g\u00e9tation abondante et fleurie, contrastant avec l\u2019ambiance de la toundra arctique. M\u00eame nos oreilles ne sont plus habitu\u00e9es aux chants d\u2019oiseaux forestiers, il faut r\u00e9-\u00e9talonner notre perception&nbsp;! L\u2019atmosph\u00e8re est lourde d\u2019humidit\u00e9 chaude, \u00e7a sent l\u2019orage. Nous nous arr\u00eatons au camping de Senja pour une pause de quelques jours le [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3275","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3275","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3275"}],"version-history":[{"count":36,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3275\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8463,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3275\/revisions\/8463"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3275"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=3275"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=3275"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}