{"id":3498,"date":"2022-08-21T17:05:03","date_gmt":"2022-08-21T15:05:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/?p=3498"},"modified":"2024-07-30T17:41:49","modified_gmt":"2024-07-30T15:41:49","slug":"19-reipa-oppdal-km-6336-km-7079","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/?p=3498","title":{"rendered":"19 &#8211; Reip\u00e5 > Oppdal (km  6336 &#8211; km 7079)"},"content":{"rendered":"<link rel='stylesheet' id='osm-ol3-css-css' href='https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/osm\/js\/OL\/10.9.0\/ol.css?ver=10.9.0&#038;ver=7.0' media='all' \/>\n<link rel='stylesheet' id='osm-ol3-ext-css-css' href='https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/osm\/css\/osm_map_v3.css?ver=1.0.0&#038;ver=7.0' media='all' \/>\n<link rel='stylesheet' id='osm-map-css-css' href='https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/osm\/css\/osm_map.css?ver=1.0.0&#038;ver=7.0' media='all' \/>\n<script id=\"wp-polyfill-js\" 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Avec Marco et son v\u00e9lo \u00e0 courroie<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/07\/22 \u00c5gskardet -Sandnessj\u00f8en carri\u00e8re&nbsp;: 60km. <strong>L&rsquo;\u00e9lan de la carri\u00e8re<\/strong> <strong>aux hirondelles<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/07\/23 Sandnessj\u00f8en carri\u00e8re \u2013 Vega&nbsp;: 45km.<strong> L&rsquo;\u00eele des Oies cendr\u00e9es<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/07\/24 Vega \u2013 Horn&nbsp;: 28km. <strong>La c\u00f4te de fou pour arriver au bivouac<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/07\/25 Horn \u2013 Holm&nbsp;: 68km. <strong>Moins une avant l&rsquo;orage<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/07\/26 Holm \u2013 Kjelleidet Camping. <strong>Laissons passer le front<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/07\/27 Kjelleidet Camping \u2013 Lund&nbsp;: 66km. <strong>La clairi\u00e8re des chevreuils<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/07\/28 Lund \u2013 Bangsund : 70km. <strong>Des loutres et des Garrots \u00e0 \u0153il d\u2019or<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/07\/29 Bangsund \u2013 Ho\u00f8ya&nbsp;: 61km. <strong>Aire de baignade de luxe sur la p\u00e9ninsule<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/07\/30 Ho\u00f8ya \u2013 Hoseth&nbsp;: 31km <strong>Bivouac sur le lac de Leksdalvatnet avec les grues<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/07\/31 Hoseth \u2013 Lac Hoklingen&nbsp;: 57km.<strong> A c\u00f4t\u00e9 d&rsquo;un petit barrage<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/08\/01 Lac Hoklingen \u2013 Stavsj\u00f8en&nbsp;: 47km.<strong> Avec Rosy<\/strong> <strong>et Phil<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/08\/02 Stavsj\u00f8en \u2013 Eggkleiva&nbsp;: 59km. <strong>Changement de roue \u00e0 Trondheim<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/08\/03 Eggkleiva \u2013 Olskastet&nbsp;: 44km. <strong>Cabane refuge partag\u00e9e avec Joerg la fl\u00e8che<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/08\/04 Olskastet \u2013 Oppdal&nbsp;: 84km.<strong> \u00e0 la d\u00e9couverte du Dovrefjell<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pour ne pas&nbsp; briser la routine, en ce Jeudi 21 Juillet , nous reprenons la route sous la pluie au d\u00e9part de Reip\u00e5. Nous roulons jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 \u00d8rnes faire le ravitaillement et attendre le ferry. Nous avons quelques heures devant nous et on s&rsquo;essaie \u00e0 la maraude des poubelles du supermarch\u00e9. Nous avons appris&nbsp; depuis quelques mois (\u00e0 travers les r\u00e9seaux sociaux notamment) que c&rsquo;est une pratique courante chez les voyageurs \u00e0 v\u00e9lo. En Norv\u00e8ge cela prend tout son sens vu le prix exorbitant des produits frais (fruits, l\u00e9gumes, laitages). La veille, une \u00e9quipe de quatre cyclos -deux bretons partageant la route avec deux espagnols, nous avaient offert de belles bananes r\u00e9cup\u00e9r\u00e9es et nous racontent qu&rsquo;ils fouillent presque syst\u00e9matiquement les conteneurs . \u00ab&nbsp;Ils \u00e9taient sur le point de jeter un m\u00e8tre cube de bananes encore bonnes. On les en a d\u00e9barrass\u00e9s&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb. Les fruits sont l\u00e9g\u00e8rement tavel\u00e9s de brun, m\u00fbrs \u00e0 point et parfaits pour un go\u00fbter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Suite \u00e0 ces t\u00e9moignages, c&rsquo;est notre tour. A c\u00f4t\u00e9 du supermarch\u00e9 o\u00f9 nous venons de faire nos emplettes, nous avons rep\u00e9r\u00e9 des conteneurs contre une des fa\u00e7ades. Il suffirait de soulever le couvercle. \u00ab&nbsp;J&rsquo;y vais pendant que tu restes pr\u00e8s des v\u00e9los&nbsp;?&nbsp;\u00bb sugg\u00e8re Marine avec malice.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Trois bacs sont align\u00e9s dans une impasse sans fen\u00eatre. Le premier ne contient rien d&rsquo;int\u00e9ressant, de grands sacs plastiques. Marine soul\u00e8ve le deuxi\u00e8me&nbsp;: presque vide. Le troisi\u00e8me est compl\u00e8tement vide et Marine tourne les talons. Bredouille, elle rentre faire son rapport d&rsquo;\u00e9claireuse \u00e0 Gabriel qui y retourne pour faire un constat diff\u00e9rent. Il y a des fruits doivent juste \u00eatre lav\u00e9s, et en plus pleins de petits pains aux graines dans un sachet herm\u00e9tique,&nbsp;ainsi qu&rsquo;un grand pot de yaourt \u00e0 la vanille tout neuf. La date limite de consommation est proche mais nous importe peu&nbsp;: nous savons que les produits laitiers en indiquent une avec beaucoup de marge, et les temp\u00e9ratures sont correctes en ce moment pour ne pas d\u00e9t\u00e9riorer le contenu des poubelles. Nous emmenons notre butin un peu plus loin dans un abri en bois \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 du jardin d&rsquo;enfants. Comme des go\u00e9lands apr\u00e8s une trouvaille qu&rsquo;ils veulent soustraire \u00e0 la vue de leurs cong\u00e9n\u00e8res \u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220721_130602-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3609\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220721_130602-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220721_130602-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220721_130602-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220721_130602-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220721_130602-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le ferry nous t\u00e9l\u00e9porte jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 Vassdalvik, d&rsquo;o\u00f9 nous longeons la c\u00f4te d\u00e9coup\u00e9e de cette p\u00e9ninsule creus\u00e9e d&rsquo;un long fjord. Nous roulons \u00e0 la m\u00eame allure qu&rsquo;un autre cycliste aper\u00e7u dans le m\u00eame ferry. Un grand drapeau multicolore flotte derri\u00e8re son v\u00e9lo, portant l&rsquo;inscription \u00ab&nbsp;no war&nbsp;\u00bb. On le talonne pendant plusieurs kilom\u00e8tres puis on finit par s&rsquo;arr\u00eater dans une c\u00f4te difficile pour boire et retirer quelques \u00e9paisseurs. On est tous les trois essouffl\u00e9s et Marine dit en montrant la pente qui nous attend: \u00ab&nbsp;tu peux rajouter sur le drapeau&nbsp;: pas de guerre, et plus jamais de c\u00f4tes raides comme celle-ci&nbsp;!\u00bb. Ce n&rsquo;est que pendant la seconde travers\u00e9e en ferry que nous faisons connaissance avec Marco, de Suisse allemande et nous lui proposons d&rsquo;aller ensemble au bivouac que nous avons rep\u00e9r\u00e9 pour la nuit sur le bord du lac d&rsquo;\u00c5gvatnet. Nous \u00e9coutons avec envie le r\u00e9cit de Marco, salari\u00e9 d&rsquo;une usine de chimie, moins pr\u00e9occup\u00e9 par l&rsquo;id\u00e9e de faire carri\u00e8re que de voyager en itin\u00e9rance. Parti traverser les \u00c9tats-Unis d&rsquo;Est en Ouest \u00e0 pied pendant l&rsquo;ann\u00e9e du confinement, il garde un merveilleux souvenir de cette aventure hors du temps et nous donne quelques id\u00e9es&#8230; La soir\u00e9e est \u00e9court\u00e9e par la pluie qui s&rsquo;invite toujours quand on n&rsquo;en a pas envie. Heureusement que nous avions plant\u00e9 nos tentes rapidement en arrivant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220721_194000-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3793\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220721_194000-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220721_194000-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220721_194000-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220721_194000-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220721_194000-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220721_194000-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_132256-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3608\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_132256-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_132256-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_132256-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_132256-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_132256-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_123640-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3794\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_123640-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_123640-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_123640-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_123640-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_123640-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_123640-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Marco reste dans sa tente pour attendre que la pluie s&rsquo;arr\u00eate. Il nous salue en entrouvrant la fermeture \u00e9clair et nous souhaite bonne chance pour cette journ\u00e9e qui s&rsquo;annonce bien humide. On le retrouvera peut \u00eatre \u00e0 Jetvik, la prochaine gare de ferry&nbsp;? Heureusement que chaque gare dispose une salle d&rsquo;attente \u00e0 l&rsquo;abri pour les voyageurs, ceux qui n&rsquo;ont pas le luxe de se r\u00e9fugier au chaud dans un camping-car ou une voiture.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00ab&nbsp;Ce que je pr\u00e9f\u00e8re dans le voyage \u00e0 v\u00e9lo, c&rsquo;est les ferry!&nbsp;\u00bb plaisante Gabriel dans notre longue travers\u00e9e jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 Kilboghavn. Nous d\u00e9passons la sculpture en m\u00e9tal repr\u00e9sentant par un globe blanc le passage symbolique du cercle polaire. \u00c0 mesure que nous en approchons, les passagers sortent sur le pont pour se tirer le portrait avec cet arri\u00e8re-plan. Non, vous n&rsquo;aurez pas de photo de nous devant cette structure minuscule, nous sommes rest\u00e9s assis bien au chaud&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_192135-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3606\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_192135-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_192135-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_192135-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_192135-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_192135-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Une fois descendus, nous roulons \u00e0 vive allure sur la route 17 jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 la prochaine gare de ferry de Stokkv\u00e5gen. D&rsquo;ici nous avons la possibilit\u00e9 de nous \u00e9pargner 80&nbsp;km le long d&rsquo;un fjord qui rentre profond\u00e9ment dans les terres. Mais les horaires ne s&rsquo;accordent pas bien avec notre planning. Faut-il attendre une nuit ici pour prendre le premier d\u00e9part ou bien jongler avec les correspondances pour partir d\u00e8s ce soir&nbsp;? L&rsquo;option de passer par l&rsquo;\u00eele de On\u00f8ya pour encha\u00eener avec le bateau qui nous emm\u00e8nera \u00e0 Sandnessj\u00f8en en fin de journ\u00e9e, nous para\u00eet la meilleure. Ainsi, nous pourrions gagner du terrain pour mettre \u00e0 profit les deux seuls jours de beau temps annonc\u00e9s prochainement sur l&rsquo;\u00eele de Vega (destination qu&rsquo;on nous avait recommand\u00e9e).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_151321-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3603\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_151321-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_151321-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_151321-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_151321-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_151321-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_162101-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3604\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_162101-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_162101-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_162101-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_162101-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_162101-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_162113-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3605\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_162113-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_162113-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_162113-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_162113-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_162113-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"760\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_192051-760x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3601\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_192051-760x1024.jpg 760w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_192051-223x300.jpg 223w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_192051-768x1034.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_192051-1140x1536.jpg 1140w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_192051-1520x2048.jpg 1520w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_192051-scaled.jpg 1901w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_200402-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3602\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_200402-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_200402-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_200402-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_200402-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_200402-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En transit \u00e0 On\u00f8ya, nous attendons \u00e0 l&rsquo;abri du vent le bateau rapide qui nous transporte jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 Sandnesj\u00f8en. La vitesse de notre embarcation est impressionnante, compar\u00e9e \u00e0 celle des ferry classiques. Il est pr\u00e8s de 21 heures et il fait encore bien jour \u00e0 Sandnesj\u00f8en. La ville est install\u00e9e dans la pente sous un ciel gris fonc\u00e9, qui serait mena\u00e7ant s&rsquo;il n&rsquo;\u00e9tait travers\u00e9 d&rsquo;un bel arc-en-ciel de bienvenue. Il nous reste \u00e0 parcourir environ huit kilom\u00e8tres en mont\u00e9e pour se mettre \u00e0 l&rsquo;\u00e9cart et rejoindre un bivouac rep\u00e9r\u00e9 sur l&rsquo;application park4night (prononcer park for night, largement utilis\u00e9e par la communaut\u00e9 des voyageurs en van et camping-car, et qui nous d\u00e9panne de temps en temps, surtout pour les zones urbaines). On s&rsquo;y attendait un peu, l&#8217;emplacement est occup\u00e9 par un v\u00e9hicule et par deux cyclistes qui terminent d&rsquo;installer leur tente. On poursuit sur la route qui s&rsquo;aplanit puis descend doucement. Soudain surgit du haut talus le corps d\u00e9gingand\u00e9 d&rsquo;un \u00e9lan qui nous regarde un instant, surpris, puis s&rsquo;\u00e9loigne derri\u00e8re le relief. En le suivant par un autre chemin, nous p\u00e9n\u00e9trons sur une plateforme surplombant ce qui ressemble \u00e0 une ancienne carri\u00e8re. Un des talus de terre est cribl\u00e9 de trous, c&rsquo;est une colonie d&rsquo;Hirondelles de rivage qui volent \u00e0 proximit\u00e9. L&rsquo;\u00e9lan est d\u00e9j\u00e0 loin, de l&rsquo;autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la carri\u00e8re, nous guettant de temps en temps pendant que nous nous installons sur un carr\u00e9 d&rsquo;herbe rase. On le salue de loin&nbsp;:&nbsp;\u00ab&nbsp;Merci pour le coup de pouce, park for moose&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb. Il est 23 heures quand tout est pr\u00eat, et apr\u00e8s un d\u00eener sous la tente (car il crachine gentiment, faut-il encore le pr\u00e9ciser), nous nous endormons comme assomm\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_214954-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3599\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_214954-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_214954-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_214954-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_214954-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_214954-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_225139-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_225139-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_225139-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_225139-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_225139-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220722_225139-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Samedi 23 Juillet. R\u00e9veil sous la pluie qui cr\u00e9pite sur la toile de tente. Ce bruit est souvent plus intense que la r\u00e9alit\u00e9. Il ne pleut pas au point de nous condamner \u00e0 rester \u00e0&nbsp; l&rsquo;int\u00e9rieur ce matin. Nous levons le camp en fin de matin\u00e9e, et prenons la direction de Tj\u00f8tta. La route 17 nous fait passer par Offers\u00f8y o\u00f9 \u00e0 notre grande surprise nous regardons traverser un mammif\u00e8re brun \u00e0 longue queue&nbsp;: une loutre&nbsp;! Nous la suivons du regard, jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 ce qu&rsquo;elle disparaisse dans les buissons.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_120207-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3598\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_120207-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_120207-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_120207-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_120207-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_120207-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_132025-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3597\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_132025-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_132025-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_132025-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_132025-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_132025-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_130307-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3596\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_130307-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_130307-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_130307-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_130307-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_130307-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous avions d\u00e9j\u00e0 observ\u00e9 des loutres dans la mer quelques jours plus t\u00f4t. Elles vivent volontiers dans l&rsquo;eau sal\u00e9e tant qu&rsquo;elles disposent d&rsquo;un cours d&rsquo;eau douce \u00e0 proximit\u00e9 pour se rincer les poils. En effet, les cristaux de sel qui s&rsquo;ins\u00e8rent dans leur fourrure la rend moins \u00e9tanche. Gabriel avait r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 en prendre une en photo, sous la pluie, l&rsquo;appareil prot\u00e9g\u00e9 par un sac poubelle tendu par Marine. Elle plongeait et ressortait avec de beaux poissons dans les pattes, qu&rsquo;elle d\u00e9gustait goul\u00fbment comme s&rsquo;il e\u00fbt s&rsquo;agit d&rsquo;un cornet de glace au hareng.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220718_221404-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3621\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220718_221404-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220718_221404-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220718_221404-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220718_221404-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220718_221404.jpg 1034w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Loutre d&rsquo;Europe<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Quelques changements de tenue plus loin, au gr\u00e9 des alternances de pluie et d&rsquo;\u00e9claircies, nous arrivons au quai de Tj\u00f8tta. Gabriel pr\u00e9pare les ananas sauv\u00e9s de la poubelle d&rsquo;un supermarch\u00e9 la veille. Nous assistons \u00e0 un spectacle de chasse de sternes dans le port \u00e0 quelques m\u00e8tres de nous. Les Sternes arctiques et Sternes pierregarin, deux esp\u00e8ces tr\u00e8s semblables, se laissent tomber comme des pierres dans l&rsquo;eau en fondant sur leur proie. Elles repartent parfois -pas \u00e0 tous les coups, avec un petit poisson fr\u00e9tillant dans le bec. Elles ne l&rsquo;avalent pas sur place mais vont le porter loin, tr\u00e8s loin, en direction de leur prog\u00e9niture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230213-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3687\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230213-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230213-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230213-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230213-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230213-rotated.jpg 1333w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230517-1-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3786\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230517-1-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230517-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230517-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230517-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230517-1.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Sterne arctique<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230372-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3689\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230372-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230372-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230372-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230372-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230372.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Sterne pierregarin<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230258-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3688\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230258-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230258-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230258-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230258-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230258.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Sterne pierregarin<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous d\u00e9barquons \u00e0 Vega en milieu d&rsquo;apr\u00e8s-midi et p\u00e9dalons une dizaine de kilom\u00e8tres jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 un abri en bord d&rsquo;un bras de mer, adoss\u00e9 \u00e0 un de ces rochers-baleines qui affleurent dans le paysage scandinave. Et sous le soleil&nbsp;! Les pr\u00e9visions se confirment, le ciel est compl\u00e8tement d\u00e9gag\u00e9 et un groupe d&rsquo;oies cendr\u00e9es volent au-dessus de nous pendant notre installation. Deux courlis cendr\u00e9s atterrissent \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 et d\u00e9collent aussit\u00f4t qu&rsquo;ils remarquent notre pr\u00e9sence. Gabriel inspecte sa roue arri\u00e8re qui donne des signes d&rsquo;usure. Une fois d\u00e9mont\u00e9e il semblerait que le probl\u00e8me provienne du moyeu qui craque en tournant. Cela expliquerait le jeu lat\u00e9ral de la jante lorsqu&rsquo;elle est en place. On n&rsquo;a vraiment pas de veine avec les roues arri\u00e8re&nbsp;! Celle-ci a roul\u00e9 \u00e0 peine 3000 km&#8230; On n&rsquo;imaginait pas d&rsquo;avarie sur cette partie, c&rsquo;est la raison pour laquelle nous n&rsquo;avons pas emport\u00e9 les cl\u00e9s qui permettent de d\u00e9monter l&rsquo;axe. Nous savourons ce moment au soleil et calculons depuis combien de temps la toile de tente ne s&rsquo;\u00e9tait pas trouv\u00e9e aussi s\u00e8che&nbsp;: trois semaines environ&nbsp;! Nous fermons les yeux, certains que cette nuit sera des plus tranquilles mais c&rsquo;\u00e9tait sans compter sur la sono d&rsquo;une soir\u00e9e qui d\u00e9bute non loin de l\u00e0. Les titres de Queen et les tubes qui s&rsquo;encha\u00eenent d\u00e9notent avec le calme des paysages sous le soleil rasant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_190645-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3594\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_190645-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_190645-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_190645-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_190645-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_190645-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_191459-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3592\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_191459-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_191459-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_191459-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_191459-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220723_191459-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230619-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3691\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230619-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230619-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230619-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230619-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230619.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230638-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3692\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230638-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230638-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230638-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230638-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230638.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Oies cendr\u00e9es <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230666-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3693\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230666-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230666-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230666-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230666-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230666.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230686-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3694\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230686-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230686-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230686-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230686-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230686.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Chevalier gambette<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230709-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3696\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230709-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230709-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230709-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230709-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230709.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Chevalier gambette<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pliage de la tente au sec, au petit matin. Hourra, cela faisait tellement longtemps. Nous prenons la direction du centre des visiteurs au Nord de l&rsquo;\u00eele, class\u00e9e UNESCO pour son patrimoine naturel et culturel. La campagne de Vega est incroyablement fleurie. Les \u00e9pilobes dressent leur fleurs roses au c\u00f4t\u00e9 des inflorescences violettes de lupin, et les tapis de reine des pr\u00e9s r\u00e9galent les M\u00e9sanges bleues qui plongent la t\u00eate dans les grappes blanches. Dans une zone tondue, un groupe d&rsquo;Oies cendr\u00e9es termine son petit d\u00e9jeuner de jeunes pousses. Plus loin, un muret chevelu attire notre attention. Est-ce l\u00e0 la mani\u00e8re traditionnelle de faire s\u00e9cher le foin sur l&rsquo;\u00eele&nbsp;?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230789-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3788\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230789-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230789-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230789-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230789-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230789.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230787-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3703\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230787-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230787-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230787-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230787-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230787.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Moineau domestique<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230738-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3697\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230738-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230738-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230738-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230738-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230738.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>M\u00e9sange bleue<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_145507-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3580\" style=\"width:768px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_145507-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_145507-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_145507-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_145507-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_145507-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le petit port du Nord de l&rsquo;\u00eele est dans une anse entour\u00e9e de b\u00e2timents sur pilotis. Ces fragiles baraques color\u00e9es enjambent les berges avec leurs pattes d&rsquo;insectes pour s&rsquo;avancer au-dessus de l&rsquo;eau. Un petit tour dans le mus\u00e9e nous apprend que l&rsquo;\u00eele est non seulement reconnue pour la diversit\u00e9 des oiseaux qui y nichent, comme le Guillemot \u00e0 miroir (sur un r\u00e9cif au large de l&rsquo;archipel) mais aussi pour l&rsquo;artisanat li\u00e9 \u00e0 la r\u00e9colte du duvet des eiders. Le duvet des canards eiders est reconnu pour \u00eatre un des plus chauds, le mot \u00ab&nbsp;\u00e9dredon&nbsp;\u00bb designe d&rsquo;ailleurs la plume de duvet de ces canards, avant d&rsquo;\u00eatre une couette bien&nbsp; chaude. Traditionnellement, le pr\u00e9cieux plumage est ramass\u00e9 dans les nids, apr\u00e8s le d\u00e9part des oiseaux \u00e0 qui l&rsquo;on a construit de petites cabanes o\u00f9 ils s&rsquo;installent volontiers. C&rsquo;\u00e9tait donc \u00e7a, les bo\u00eetes en bois avec une petite ouverture sur le c\u00f4t\u00e9, \u00e0 proximit\u00e9 du mus\u00e9e&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230747-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3699\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230747-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230747-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230747-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230747-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230747.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230748-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3700\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230748-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230748-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230748-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230748-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230748.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Un voilier accoste dans le petit port de plaisance o\u00f9 l&rsquo;on fait une pause, un couple en d\u00e9barque et l&rsquo;amarre au ponton. Puis, arrive un bateau \u00e0 moteur sur un autre quai. Des norv\u00e9giens en vacances, voguant d&rsquo;\u00eele en \u00eele, en escale \u00e0 Vega. Un autre monde, une autre mani\u00e8re de visiter la Norv\u00e8ge loin du trafic routier. On en r\u00eaverait presque si le temps \u00e9tait plus cl\u00e9ment. Nous repartons par le ferry de 17h et installons le camp avec vue surplombante sur la gare de ferry de Horn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230797-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3789\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230797-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230797-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230797-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230797-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230797-rotated.jpg 1333w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230802-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3705\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230802-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230802-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230802-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230802-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230802.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_184309-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3579\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_184309-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_184309-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_184309-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_184309-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220724_184309-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Une vieille connaissance de Marine vient taper sur ses tempes fi\u00e9vreuses&nbsp;: \u00ab&nbsp;toc toc toc, c&rsquo;est moi la migraine qui vient te g\u00e2cher tes prochaines 72 heures&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb La forte luminosit\u00e9 de cette journ\u00e9e a achev\u00e9 Marine, qui ne porte plus ses lunettes de soleil (perdues dans les Lofoten), et que la paire de remplacement m\u00e9diocre qualit\u00e9 n&rsquo;a pas prot\u00e9g\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le r\u00e9veil est douloureux pour Marine et nous replions la tente juste avant la pluie qui nous accompagnera fid\u00e8lement toute la matin\u00e9e. On se situe tout en bas de la \u00ab&nbsp;pyramide&nbsp;\u00bb de Maslow, ce fameux diagramme qui hi\u00e9rarchise les besoins et les aspirations humaines. Dans ce voyage, que nous consid\u00e9rons comme une exp\u00e9rience sur nous-m\u00eames, nous \u00e9prouvons au quotidien ce que sont les besoins primaires, qui lorsqu&rsquo;inassouvis, ne nous permettent pas de passer \u00e0 l&rsquo;\u00e9tage sup\u00e9rieur de la pyramide.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Agir d&rsquo;abord pour se nourrir, s&rsquo;abriter et se r\u00e9chauffer, prendre soin de soi&nbsp;; pour ensuite, p\u00e9daler, r\u00e9fl\u00e9chir, communiquer, observer, etc. Une grande partie de notre \u00e9nergie est accapar\u00e9e par ces besoins \u00e9l\u00e9mentaires dont on ne se soucie pas lorsque l&rsquo;on est dans notre vie de s\u00e9dentaire. Chaque journ\u00e9e est une conqu\u00eate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230856-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3708\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230856-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230856-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230856-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230856-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230856-rotated.jpg 1333w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_111027-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3576\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_111027-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_111027-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_111027-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_111027-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_111027-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Un renardeau joue sur le bord de la route, la t\u00eate plong\u00e9e dans les herbes, happant l&rsquo;air ou peut-\u00eatre un insecte. Qu&rsquo;il est mignon&nbsp;! Nous arrivons \u00e0 Hofles apr\u00e8s une bonne journ\u00e9e dans les jambes, prolong\u00e9e par un passage en bac jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 Holm. L&rsquo;horizon se teinte d&rsquo;une noirceur inqui\u00e9tante. Le compte \u00e0 rebours commence lorsque nous touchons la terre ferme. Il faut foncer jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 l&rsquo;endroit rep\u00e9r\u00e9 en bord de mer pour planter la tente avant l&rsquo;orage qui menace. \u00c7a ne rate pas&nbsp;: les hallebardes s&rsquo;abattent sur nous au moment o\u00f9 nous abritons les sacoches \u00e0 l&rsquo;int\u00e9rieur de la tente et la journ\u00e9e de demain ne sera pas mieux d&rsquo;apr\u00e8s les pr\u00e9visions. On d\u00e9cide de s&rsquo;arr\u00eater au prochain camping pour laisser passer l&rsquo;\u00e9pisode.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_183134-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3626\" style=\"width:768px;height:1024px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_183134-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_183134-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_183134-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_183134-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_183134-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_204633-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3578\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_204633-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_204633-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_204633-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_204633-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_204633-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"512\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_203745-1024x512.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3795\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_203745-1024x512.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_203745-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_203745-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_203745-1536x768.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220725_203745-2048x1024.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Comme tous les matins, on plie la tente sous la pluie et on p\u00e9dale tremp\u00e9s. Nous changeons de tenue jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 en avoir assez&nbsp;: \u00ab \u00c0 la prochaine pluie, on ne remet pas les v\u00eatements \u00e9tanches.. \u00c0 midi, nous sommes au camping tant attendu. La cuisine ext\u00e9rieure est v\u00e9tuste mais qu&rsquo;importe, pour deux cents couronnes (vingt euros), les douches chaudes sont comprises dans le prix&nbsp;! Et vous commencez \u00e0 conna\u00eetre notre obsession sur ce sujet. La baie au bout du terrain est habit\u00e9e par quelques Harles hupp\u00e9s et leurs petits qui suivent les adultes en file indienne. Tr\u00e8s loin, un Guillemot \u00e0 miroir ouvre ses ailes comme pour s&rsquo;\u00e9tirer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">L&rsquo;apr\u00e8s-midi est pass\u00e9e sous la tente \u00e0 lire et se reposer. Dehors l&rsquo;orage gronde. Le linge s\u00e8che \u00e0 l&rsquo;int\u00e9rieur de la tente. Nous r\u00e9fl\u00e9chissons s\u00e9rieusement aux alternatives qui nous restent&nbsp;: continuer \u00e0 se faire tremper le long de la c\u00f4te Ouest jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 Bergen, comme nous avions pr\u00e9vu initialement&nbsp;; ou bien couper \u00e0 travers les montagnes pour rejoindre Oslo sans prendre le train&nbsp;? Nous reportons notre d\u00e9cision \u00e0 un jour de beau temps car aujourd&rsquo;hui, notre jugement est alt\u00e9r\u00e9 par la pluie qui tape avec intensit\u00e9 la toile. Gabriel prend note de toutes les gares de la ligne de chemin de fer descendant vers le Sud. Au cas o\u00f9. Et puis s&rsquo;ajoute \u00e0 cela le sujet du remplacement de notre ordinateur qui a compl\u00e8tement rendu l&rsquo;\u00e2me.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220726_204606-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3573\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220726_204606-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220726_204606-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220726_204606-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220726_204606-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220726_204606-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mercredi 27 juillet. Une fois de plus, nous plions la tente sous la pluie. Une journ\u00e9e \u00e0 p\u00e9daler sous des averses qui se succ\u00e8dent. Nous nous amusons \u00e0 chronom\u00e9trer une accalmie : cinq minutes&nbsp;! A midi, nous capitulons. Faute de trouver un abri nous mangons nos sandwichs assis \u00e0 m\u00eame le sol, sous les gouttes d&rsquo;eau, la capuche ruisselante. Cette d\u00e9ch\u00e9ance inspire \u00e0 Gabriel ce qui pourrait devenir un proverbe&nbsp;: \u00ab&nbsp;En Norv\u00e8ge, quand la route est mouill\u00e9e c&rsquo;est qu&rsquo;il a plu&nbsp;; quand la route est s\u00e8che, c&rsquo;est qu&rsquo;il va pleuvoir&nbsp;\u00bb. On en rit \u00e0 chaque \u00e9vocation, c&rsquo;est peut-\u00eatre nerveux.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_130109_186-2-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3650\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_130109_186-2-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_130109_186-2-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_130109_186-2-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_130109_186-2-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_130109_186-2.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_144424-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3571\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_144424-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_144424-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_144424-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_144424-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_144424-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous faisons halte \u00e0 Kolvereid pour quelques courses et une fois sortis de la ville, nous croisons une famille de Grues cendr\u00e9es&nbsp;: deux adultes et deux jeunes qui s&rsquo;\u00e9loignent \u00e0 la vue des v\u00e9los. Nous avalons les kilom\u00e8tres et le d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 \u00e0 travers la campagne cultiv\u00e9e jusqu&rsquo;au bac de Hofles qui nous transporte jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 Lund. Une clairi\u00e8re en l\u00e9g\u00e8re pente au bord de l&rsquo;unique route et prot\u00e9g\u00e9e du vent d&rsquo;Ouest nous accueille pour la nuit. Deux chevreuils effray\u00e9s disparaissent dans les fourr\u00e9s. D&rsquo;\u00e9normes bolets luisants de pluie d\u00e9passent des herbes. Nous dormons \u00e0 poings ferm\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124931_733-1-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3647\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124931_733-1-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124931_733-1-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124931_733-1-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124931_733-1-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124931_733-1.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>jeunes Grues cendr\u00e9es <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124931_810-1-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3648\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124931_810-1-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124931_810-1-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124931_810-1-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124931_810-1-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124931_810-1.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Grue cendr\u00e9e <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_184407-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3570\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_184407-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_184407-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_184407-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_184407-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_184407-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230850-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3707\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230850-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230850-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230850-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230850-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230850.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_193343-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3569\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_193343-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_193343-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_193343-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_193343-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220727_193343-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">28 Juillet. Nous fournissons l&rsquo;espoir qu&rsquo;un r\u00e9parateur de v\u00e9lo \u00e0 Namsos trouvera une solution pour la roue de Gabriel. Elle grince si fort que nous faisons une halte en haut d&rsquo;un col pour r\u00e9gler le rayonnage, ce qui a l&rsquo;air d&rsquo;am\u00e9liorer les choses. Avant d&rsquo;attaquer ladite c\u00f4te, nous prenons une pause pour boire \u00e0 Salsnes, au croisement de la route principale et d&rsquo;une rue d&rsquo;o\u00f9 arrive un p\u00eacheur. Les traits fins, les yeux tr\u00e8s clairs derri\u00e8re des lunettes \u00e0 fine monture m\u00e9tallique, son anorak \u00e9pais est ceintur\u00e9 par une sangle retenant dans son dos une petite caisse en plastique ajour\u00e9e. Il tient une longue canne \u00e0 p\u00eache dans sa main droite et nous salue en Norv\u00e9gien. Quand il apprend d&rsquo;o\u00f9 l&rsquo;on vient, il s&rsquo;exprime alors dans un fran\u00e7ais impeccable. Nous faisons connaissance de Thomas, qui est en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 Danois, venu pour quelques temps p\u00eacher \u00e0 la mouche le saumon. Lui-m\u00eame cyclotouriste et fin connaisseur de la gastronomie fran\u00e7aise (il travaille pour une \u00e9picerie sp\u00e9cialis\u00e9e \u00e0 Copenhague), nous discutons longuement et sympathisons. Il nous en apprend un peu plus sur la fascinante migration des saumons et leur fid\u00e9lit\u00e9 \u00e0 leur lieu de naissance. La migration n&rsquo;est pas annuelle, en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 ils restent quelques ann\u00e9es au large du Groenland avant d&rsquo;entamer leur migration. Le p\u00eacheur ajoute en se tournant vers l&rsquo;Est&nbsp;: \u00ab&nbsp;L\u00e0-bas, il y a un lac dans lequel se jettent cinq cours d&rsquo;eau. Chacun a une population de saumon sp\u00e9cifique qui flaire son lieu d&rsquo;origine avec une pr\u00e9cision \u00e9tonnante.&nbsp;\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il nous invite \u00e0 faire un d\u00e9tour par Copenhague sur notre trajet de retour, et l&rsquo;id\u00e9e nous occupe pendant que nous gravissons le col o\u00f9 des brebis sont \u00e9tal\u00e9es sans crainte au milieu du bitume. Ce serait une bonne id\u00e9e, c&rsquo;est si proche de Malm\u00f6 o\u00f9 nous passerons certainement. Marine ajoute que les petites \u00eeles proches de la capitale seraient tr\u00e8s int\u00e9ressantes en fin d&rsquo;\u00e9t\u00e9, du point de vue ornithologique. Pourquoi pas&nbsp;?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_142-1-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3644\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_142-1-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_142-1-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_142-1-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_142-1-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_142-1.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_309-1-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3642\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_309-1-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_309-1-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_309-1-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_309-1-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_309-1.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_123515_612-1-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3629\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_123515_612-1-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_123515_612-1-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_123515_612-1-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_123515_612-1-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_123515_612-1.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous trouvons refuge dans le port de Brekksillan, sous une \u00e9trange construction qui enjambe le ponton. Le b\u00e2timent en bois est construit comme un balancier&nbsp;: du c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la berge, Il s&rsquo;articule autour d&rsquo;un axe pos\u00e9 sur deux points d&rsquo;appuis. Cela permet \u00e0 son autre extr\u00e9mit\u00e9, en porte-\u00e0-faux au-dessus de l&rsquo;eau, de monter et descendre. On imagine que le plancher s&rsquo;adapte alors \u00e0 la hauteur du pont des chalutiers qui l&rsquo;accostent afin de d\u00e9charger leur p\u00eache, cela au gr\u00e9 des heures de mar\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230864-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3709\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230864-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230864-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230864-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230864-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230864-rotated.jpg 1333w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230867-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3710\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230867-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230867-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230867-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230867-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230867.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_130701-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3628\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_130701-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_130701-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_130701-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_130701-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_130701-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous arrivons \u00e0 Namsos, une ville sans charme mais avec des poubelles de supermarch\u00e9 bien fournies et un magasin de v\u00e9lo. Ce qui est d\u00e9j\u00e0 pas mal. Le verdict du r\u00e9parateur est sans appel&nbsp;: les roulements du moyeu sont HS et il faut imp\u00e9rativement changer la roue. Ils n&rsquo;en ont plus malheureusement mais chargent n\u00e9anmoins de graisse l&rsquo;int\u00e9rieur du roulement ce qui devrait gommer les craquements et tenir encore une cinquantaine de kilom\u00e8tres. Il nous assure que nous trouverons quelque chose \u00e0 Steinkjer. Cela modifie un peu notre itin\u00e9raire mais peu importe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous roulons jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 Bangsund, o\u00f9 l&rsquo;itin\u00e9raire cycliste emprunte une ancienne route condamn\u00e9e aux voitures. Une table de pique-nique, un carr\u00e9 de terrain plat et des fleurs de lupin suffisent \u00e0 nous d\u00e9cider pour le bivouac. Il y a m\u00eame une loutre timide qui vient montrer son museau \u00e0 la surface de l&rsquo;eau et des Garrots \u00e0 \u0153il d&rsquo;or qui dorment la t\u00eate dans les ailes. Le soir, une dame en long manteau rouge nous interroge sur son chat perdu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_164948-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3568\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_164948-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_164948-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_164948-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_164948-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_164948-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_204639-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3565\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_204639-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_204639-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_204639-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_204639-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_204639-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">   <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_204627-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3566\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_204627-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_204627-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_204627-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_204627-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220728_204627-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_357-1-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3643\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_357-1-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_357-1-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_357-1-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_357-1-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_357-1.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le lendemain c&rsquo;est son mari qui est \u00e0 sa recherche. \u00ab&nbsp;N&rsquo;avez-vous pas eu la visite d&rsquo;un chat&nbsp;?&nbsp;\u00bb. Gabriel est pench\u00e9 sur son ouvrage (\u00e9ni\u00e8me r\u00e9glage de rayons car la roue n&rsquo;a pas cess\u00e9 de craquer malgr\u00e9 la visite chez le r\u00e9parateur), et Marine entame la discussion avec ce voisin, sur les animaux du coin. La loutre est une habitu\u00e9e, farouche mais pr\u00e9sente qu&rsquo;il lui arrive de surprendre en Kayak. Les plus faciles \u00e0 voir sont les trois phoques qui se pr\u00e9lassent souvent sur la presqu&rsquo;\u00eele \u00e0 mar\u00e9e basse. Et puis, il y a eu cette ann\u00e9e o\u00f9 une baleine est rest\u00e9e coinc\u00e9e dans ce bras de mer, ne trouvant plus le chemin vers l&rsquo;oc\u00e9an. Elle \u00e9tait devenue l&rsquo;attraction touristique pendant un moment&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous prenons la route assez tard, retard\u00e9s par les cris suraigus des Roitelets hupp\u00e9s, que Gabriel peine \u00e0 photographier tant ils sont rapides dans leur d\u00e9placement de branche en branche, \u00e0 la recherche d&rsquo;insectes ou d&rsquo;araign\u00e9es sur l&rsquo;\u00e9corce des \u00e9pic\u00e9as.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_114620-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3633\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_114620-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_114620-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_114620-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_114620-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_114620-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125943_805-1-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3640\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125943_805-1-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125943_805-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125943_805-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125943_805-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125943_805-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125943_805-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Roitelet hupp\u00e9 <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230922-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3712\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230922-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230922-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230922-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230922-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230922.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Roitelet hupp\u00e9 <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">L&rsquo;atmosph\u00e8re est charg\u00e9e de l&rsquo;odeur sucr\u00e9e des fleurs de lupin. Avec ce beau temps, le moral est remont\u00e9 en fl\u00e8che. La roue craque un peu moins depuis les derniers r\u00e9glages.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous atteignons l&rsquo;aire de baignade de Sj\u00f8\u00e5sen, d\u00e9couverte au hasard, et qui se situe en face de la r\u00e9serve naturelle de \u00c5snes. Une quarantaine d&rsquo;Oies cendr\u00e9es nagent le long de l&rsquo;autre rive de la rivi\u00e8re \u00c5rg\u00e5rdselva. De jeunes Go\u00e9lands cendr\u00e9s font leur sieste au soleil et le Balbuzard p\u00eacheur n&rsquo;est pas loin, quand il n&rsquo;est pas chass\u00e9 par les Corneilles mantel\u00e9es. C&rsquo;est une occasion de laver \u00e0 l&rsquo;eau douce l&rsquo;ensemble de notre maraude de la veille dont quelques tomates, fruit dont on avait presque oubli\u00e9 la saveur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_661-1-819x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3638\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_661-1-819x1024.webp 819w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_661-1-240x300.webp 240w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_661-1-768x960.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_661-1.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_874-1-819x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3636\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_874-1-819x1024.webp 819w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_874-1-240x300.webp 240w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_874-1-768x960.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_874-1.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Oies cendr\u00e9es <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_806-1-819x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3637\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_806-1-819x1024.webp 819w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_806-1-240x300.webp 240w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_806-1-768x960.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_806-1.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"820\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_941-1-820x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3635\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_941-1-820x1024.webp 820w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_941-1-240x300.webp 240w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_941-1-768x959.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_125511_941-1.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 820px) 100vw, 820px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Balbuzard p\u00eacheur <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240008-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3715\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240008-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240008-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240008-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240008-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240008.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Go\u00e9land cendr\u00e9 <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240014-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3716\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240014-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240014-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240014-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240014-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240014.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Go\u00e9land cendr\u00e9 <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230965-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3714\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230965-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230965-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230965-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230965-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230965.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Bergeronnette grise<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Les paysages sont de plus en plus marqu\u00e9s par la culture c\u00e9r\u00e9ali\u00e8re. Ici du seigle encore vert aux reflets bleut\u00e9s, l\u00e0 un champ de bl\u00e9 bien blond. Par endroits cela ressemble aux montagnes-\u00e0-vaches de chez nous. Nous croisons en sens inverse deux cyclistes qui nous renseignent sur la suite de l&rsquo;itin\u00e9raire Trondheim-Oslo, que nous sommes maintenant d\u00e9cid\u00e9s \u00e0 suivre. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240041-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3717\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240041-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240041-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240041-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240041-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240041.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_639-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3538\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_639-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_639-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_639-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_639-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_639.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_627-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3537\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_627-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_627-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_627-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_627-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_627.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_650-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3539\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_650-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_650-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_650-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_650-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124128_650.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La route s&rsquo;incurve pour suivre au plus pr\u00e8s le dessin de la c\u00f4te, puis nous faisons une br\u00e8ve halte dans la baie de Vellamelen o\u00f9 pr\u00e8s d&rsquo;une centaine de Garrots \u00e0 \u0153il d&rsquo;or sont mass\u00e9s au milieu de l&rsquo;eau, en compagnie de quelques Eiders \u00e0 duvet. Tous arborent un plumage brun. Les m\u00e2les, d&rsquo;ordinaire si contrast\u00e9s seraient-ils partis en laissant les jeunes et les femelles&nbsp;? En r\u00e9alit\u00e9, les m\u00e2les ont mu\u00e9 en plumage dit \u00ab&nbsp;d&rsquo;\u00e9clipse&nbsp;\u00bb, un plumage interm\u00e9diaire qui les font ressembler aux femelles. La fin de la saison de reproduction a donc sonn\u00e9. L&rsquo;heure du retour vers le Sud ne va pas tarder&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124656_333-1024x683.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3540\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124656_333-1024x683.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124656_333-300x200.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124656_333-768x512.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124656_333.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Eiders \u00e0 duvet<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124656_434-1024x683.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3536\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124656_434-1024x683.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124656_434-300x200.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124656_434-768x512.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_124656_434.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Garrots \u00e0 oeil d\u00b4or<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Au terme du cinquanti\u00e8me kilom\u00e8tre nous envisageons d&rsquo;explorer les abords d&rsquo;un lac qui se r\u00e9v\u00e8lent compl\u00e8tement inaccessibles car mar\u00e9cageux. Une dr\u00f4le de silhouette en lisi\u00e8re nous fait tourner la t\u00eate et freiner dans la descente.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00ab&nbsp;C&rsquo;est un cheval ou c&rsquo;est un mouze&nbsp;?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">-C&rsquo;est un mouze mon cher, de type juv\u00e9nile voyez-vous.&nbsp;\u00bb r\u00e9plique Marine qui a sorti ses jumelles.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mouze c&rsquo;est le nom que l&rsquo;on donne aux \u00e9lans, en pronon\u00e7ant \u00e0 la fran\u00e7aise le mot anglais moose. Gabriel d\u00e9gaine l&rsquo;appareil photo \u00e0 temps. L&rsquo;\u00e9lan tourne sa t\u00eate \u00e0 grandes oreilles vers les arbres, comme pour demander aux adultes&nbsp;: \u00ab&nbsp; Y a des humains qui s&rsquo;arr\u00eatent, je fais quoi&nbsp;?&nbsp;\u00bb. Et puis ils ont d\u00fb lui dire de se planquer, forc\u00e9ment, parce qu&rsquo;on ne l&rsquo;a pas vu longtemps. C&rsquo;est le premier jeune que l&rsquo;on voit&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_220437-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3554\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_220437-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_220437-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_220437-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_220437-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_220437-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous poursuivons donc notre qu\u00eate de bivouac. Gabriel a rep\u00e9r\u00e9 une aire de pique-nique symbolis\u00e9e par pictogramme de table et de toilettes sur notre carte num\u00e9rique. Ce sont souvent de pr\u00e9cieux indices. En arrivant sur place nous d\u00e9couvrons qu&rsquo;il s&rsquo;agit en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 d&rsquo;une tr\u00e8s grande aire de baignade fr\u00e9quent\u00e9e, tr\u00e8s bien am\u00e9nag\u00e9e avec toutes les commodit\u00e9s, y compris une douche de plage (froide, mais douche quand m\u00eame!). Le lieu est parfait. Nous n&rsquo;avons encore aucune id\u00e9e de l&rsquo;endroit o\u00f9 nous planterons la tente, mais la soir\u00e9e est gagn\u00e9e. On prend le repas du soir sur des rochers baleines chauff\u00e9s toute la journ\u00e9e par le soleil. Quel d\u00e9lice&nbsp;!&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_201258-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3562\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_201258-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_201258-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_201258-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_201258-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_201258-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_195518-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3563\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_195518-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_195518-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_195518-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_195518-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220729_195518-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240069-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3721\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240069-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240069-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240069-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240069-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240069.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">30 Juillet. Nous petit d\u00e9jeunons sur un quai devant la mer. Une femme s&rsquo;approche en glissant sur les algues juste \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 et lance son leurre puis le ram\u00e8ne en moulinant. Au bout de quelques lancers, il se coince dans les algues. Une occasion d&rsquo;engager la conversation pendant qu&rsquo;elle tire sur le fil avec les doigts prot\u00e9g\u00e9s dans le bout de ses manches. \u00ab&nbsp;Ce n&rsquo;est pas le premier, peut-\u00eatre le sixi\u00e8me de l&rsquo;\u00e9t\u00e9&nbsp;!\u00bb dit-elle en souriant d&rsquo;autod\u00e9rision. Nous \u00e9changeons avec cette p\u00eacheuse Hollandaise \u00e0 qui les oiseaux manquent ici en Norv\u00e8ge. Un groupe de Bernaches du Canada passent en criant au-dessus de nos t\u00eates. \u00ab&nbsp;Ha! Celles-l\u00e0 je les chasse en Hollande!&nbsp;\u00bb. Marine d\u00e9glutit, mal \u00e0 l&rsquo;aise. Cela n&#8217;emp\u00eachera pas de poursuivre sur nos d\u00e9couvertes norv\u00e9giennes respectives (elle nous montre pleins de photos du Parc national du Dovrefjell o\u00f9 nous souhaitons nous rendre), la gestion des espaces naturels aux Pays-Bas, le retour du loup dans son pays, et d&rsquo;autres consid\u00e9rations sur le peu d&rsquo;espace que nous laissons aux animaux sauvages. Nous avons la m\u00eame conclusion, ce ne sont pas les animaux sauvages qui sont trop nombreux mais les \u00eatres humains qui prennent toute la place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240066-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3720\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240066-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240066-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240066-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240066-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240066.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cela fait \u00e9cho \u00e0 la lecture du moment de Marine, dans ce beau conte su\u00e9dois, o\u00f9 le petit Nils voyage sur le dos d&rsquo;un jars avec les oies sauvages. L&rsquo;une d&rsquo;entre elles dit au petit gar\u00e7on au terme de leur voyage :<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>\u00ab&nbsp;Si tu as appris des choses utiles en notre compagnie, Poucet, tu dois certainement penser maintenant que les humains ne sont pas les seuls \u00e0 avoir le droit d&rsquo;\u00eatre sur terre, dit solennement l&rsquo;oie meneuse. Dis-toi que vous poss\u00e9dez un grand pays et que vous auriez certainement les moyens de nous laisser, \u00e0 nous autres pauvres animaux, quelques \u00eelots d\u00e9nud\u00e9s, quelques lacs peu profonds, tourbi\u00e8res humides, montagnes isol\u00e9es ou for\u00eats \u00e9loign\u00e9es, o\u00f9 nous pourrions vivre en paix&nbsp;! Durant toute ma vie j&rsquo;ai \u00e9t\u00e9 poursuivie et chass\u00e9e. Ce serait bon de savoir qu&rsquo;il existe aussi un refuge pour quelqu&rsquo;un comme moi.&nbsp;\u00bb <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>(Selma Lagerl\u00f6f. Le Merveilleux voyage de Nils Holgersson \u00e0 travers la Su\u00e8de. 1942)<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230710-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3813\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230710-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230710-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230710-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230710-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1230710.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Oies cendr\u00e9es <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_164301-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3656\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_164301-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_164301-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_164301-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_164301-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_164301-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240071-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3722\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240071-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240071-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240071-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240071-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240071.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"> <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240072-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3723\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240072-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240072-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240072-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240072-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240072.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous nous dirigeons vers Steinkjer, pour acheter une nouvelle roue au magasin de sport. Gabriel se renseigne et ressort bredouille. La roue propos\u00e9e semble fragile, du moins pas aussi solide que celle dont nous sommes \u00e9quip\u00e9s pour le moment. D\u00e9tail \u00e0 part, elle est vendue le double du prix affich\u00e9 sur internet&#8230; Esp\u00e9rons qu&rsquo;elle tienne jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 Trondheim. Nous errons entre le Biltema (grande surface o\u00f9 l&rsquo;on trouve des outils et des pi\u00e8ces de v\u00e9lo entre autres) et le&nbsp; Rema 1000, notre supermarch\u00e9 favori (que l&rsquo;on trouve moins cher que les autres), puis nous nous dirigeons vers un bivouac prometteur sur la rive Est du lac de Leksdal. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_173707-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3659\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_173707-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_173707-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_173707-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_173707-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220730_173707-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240130-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3729\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240130-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240130-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240130-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240130-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240130.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous quittons la route et traversons une \u00e9paisse for\u00eat de bouleaux humide. Le chemin se termine sur une petite clairi\u00e8re ouverte sur le lac. Les personnes que nous avons crois\u00e9es en sens inverse viennent de quitter les lieux, les braises fument encore dans le barbecue. Nous sommes seuls et nous pr\u00e9cipitons dans l&rsquo;eau pour un bon d\u00e9crassage. Les Chevaliers guignettes chantent, mais ne couvrent pas le bruit du moteur du bateau au milieu du lac.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240102-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3725\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240102-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240102-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240102-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240102-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240102.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Deux Grues cendr\u00e9es d\u00e9collent \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la tente lorsque Marine se l\u00e8ve en pleine nuit. \u00ab&nbsp;D\u00e9sol\u00e9e, je ne voulais pas prendre votre place, revenez&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb. L&rsquo;obscurit\u00e9 nocturne revient peu \u00e0 peu. Pas encore au point de faire nuit noire cependant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240162-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3732\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240162-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240162-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240162-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240162-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240162.jpg 1333w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Pinson du Nord<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240146-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3730\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240146-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240146-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240146-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240146-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240146.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Pouillot fitis<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240115-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3727\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240115-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240115-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240115-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240115-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240115.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132651_711-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3524\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132651_711-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132651_711-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132651_711-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132651_711-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132651_711.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">31 juillet. Les cris trompettants des Grues retentissent au loin. Cela nous transporte en Su\u00e8de o\u00f9 nous avions assist\u00e9 en Avril \u00e0 un rassemblement printanier tr\u00e8s bruyant au lac Hornborga. Nous plions le camp et faisons une halte plus loin sur le lac \u00e0 un observatoire ornithologique. Pendant que Marine se r\u00e9gale,&nbsp; l&rsquo;oeil dans la longue-vue, Gabriel bricole et remplit d&rsquo;huile le roulement de sa roue arri\u00e8re.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240164-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3733\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240164-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240164-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240164-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240164-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240164.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220731_142449-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3559\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220731_142449-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220731_142449-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220731_142449-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220731_142449-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220731_142449-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132651_990-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3522\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132651_990-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132651_990-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132651_990-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132651_990-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132651_990.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Une dizaine de Chevaliers combattants sont pos\u00e9s sur le m\u00eame \u00eelot que des B\u00e9cassines des marais, des Vanneaux hupp\u00e9s et des Sarcelles d&rsquo;hiver. Au loin, une Sarcelle d&rsquo;\u00e9t\u00e9 aux sourcils blancs presque effac\u00e9s tra\u00eene derri\u00e8re elle ses cinq petits. Sur une autre langue de terre viennent se poser deux Chevaliers aboyeurs, mais les quatre Chevaliers Guignettes ne se laissent pas faire. Ils tiennent t\u00eate \u00e0 ces \u00e9chassiers bien plus grands qu&rsquo;eux, si bien qu&rsquo;ils restent sur place avec les canards siffleurs. Un Courlis cendr\u00e9 donne l&rsquo;alarme quand un photographe arrive sur la plateforme. Tous s&rsquo;envolent plus loin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240166-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3734\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240166-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240166-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240166-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240166-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240166.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240169-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3735\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240169-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240169-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240169-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240169-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240169.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La roue de Gabriel craque beaucoup moins, noy\u00e9e dans toute cette huile. Nous traversons la ville de Levanger dans une ambiance de dimanche. Les vitrines en rez-de-chauss\u00e9e des fa\u00e7ades en bois color\u00e9es et ouvrag\u00e9es sont ferm\u00e9es. Nous faisons le choix de l&rsquo;itin\u00e9raire le plus rapide sur notre application de guidage&nbsp;: \u00ab&nbsp;Tiens, si on prenait la petite route blanche, plut\u00f4t que la grosse jaune&nbsp;?&nbsp;\u00bb. Mais nous avons oubli\u00e9 les le\u00e7ons de la Su\u00e8de&nbsp;: itin\u00e9raire rapide \u00e9gal grosse mont\u00e9e et grosse gal\u00e8re dans des pistes non asphalt\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Plus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">jamais.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">de.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">petite.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">route.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">blanche.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous sommes \u00e9puis\u00e9s en arrivant sur notre bivouac, au pied d&rsquo;un petit barrage. On esp\u00e8re qu&rsquo;il ne c\u00e9dera pas avec toute la pluie qui va tomber cette nuit, et qui commence d\u00e9j\u00e0 d&rsquo;ailleurs. Vite, \u00e0 l&rsquo;int\u00e9rieur de la tente&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_120-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3519\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_120-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_120-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_120-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_120-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_120.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_089-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3520\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_089-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_089-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_089-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_089-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_089.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Au matin, une porti\u00e8re coulissante qui claque et des bruits de lourdes&nbsp; pi\u00e8ces en m\u00e9tal qui s&rsquo;entrechoquent nous parviennent, alors que l&rsquo;on somnole. Des employ\u00e9s de la commune sont venus r\u00e9gler le d\u00e9bit de la retenue d&rsquo;eau. Les blocs de pierre&nbsp; sur lesquels nous avons rinc\u00e9 nos fruits glan\u00e9s la veille sont compl\u00e8tement submerg\u00e9s.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220731_184638-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3796\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220731_184638-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220731_184638-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220731_184638-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220731_184638-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220731_184638-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220731_184638-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous retrouvons l&rsquo;asphalte apr\u00e8s une petite portion de piste raide, puis nous suivons une voie rapide sans accotement pour les v\u00e9los jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 Stj\u00f8rdal. Heureusement, les conducteurs norv\u00e9giens sont les plus respectueux que nous ayons c\u00f4toy\u00e9 et nous d\u00e9passent largement, en changeant de file comme ils le feraient pour une voiture, et ne s&rsquo;engagent \u00e0 le faire que lorsque la visibilit\u00e9 est totale. Il arrive donc qu&rsquo;une longue file de v\u00e9hicules se forme derri\u00e8re nous dans une c\u00f4te.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_149-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3515\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_149-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_149-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_149-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_149-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_132652_149.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous recevons vers midi un message de Phil avec qui nous avions p\u00e9dal\u00e9 en Allemagne. Il a atteint le Cap Nord au mois de Mai alors que nous n&rsquo;\u00e9tions pas au bout de notre \u00e9pisode su\u00e9dois, et il continue d&rsquo;explorer la Norv\u00e8ge en camion am\u00e9nag\u00e9 avec son \u00e9pouse Rosy. Il vient aux nouvelles, on devrait \u00eatre pr\u00e8s de Trondheim d&rsquo;apr\u00e8s lui qui suit nos aventures, et il n&rsquo;en est pas loin non plus. On r\u00e9alise que nous nous trouvons dans la m\u00eame ville et il nous rejoint sur le champ. Un gros camion blanc se gare en face de nous, alors que nous sommes assis sur le banc d&rsquo;une rue pi\u00e9tonne. Nous laissons nos affaires dessus pour venir les saluer, mais un go\u00e9land opportuniste interromp notre conversation. Marine couvre notre picnic d&rsquo;un de nos dossards fluos pour dissuader les pique-assiettes. Incorrigibles ceux-l\u00e0.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240179-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3737\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240179-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240179-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240179-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240179-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240179.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Chouca des tours<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240177-1-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3815\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240177-1-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240177-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240177-1-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240177-1-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240177-1-rotated.jpg 1333w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Chouca des tours<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous faisons la connaissance de Rosy dont il nous avait beaucoup parl\u00e9. Pourquoi pas bivouaquer au m\u00eame endroit ce soir&nbsp;? On pourrait prolonger nos discussions et partager un repas. Nous nous donnons rendez-vous au lac de Stavsj\u00f8en \u00e0 une quinzaine de kilom\u00e8tres. Ils sont d\u00e9j\u00e0 arriv\u00e9s quand nous en sommes encore \u00e0 souffrir dans les pentes \u00e0 18% d&rsquo;une zone pavillonnaire aux allures de forteresse imprenable. Nous faisons une pause dans chaque \u00e9pingle, les jambes en compote, et le c\u0153ur sur le point d&rsquo;exploser.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Une famille de Grands gravelots habite dans les gravats devant ce qui ressemble \u00e0 un grand gymnase ou un terrain de tennis couvert. Les deux adultes conduisent leurs trois poussins \u00e0 l&rsquo;\u00e9cart des chiens qui leur courent apr\u00e8s, et des humains qui s&rsquo;approchent un peu trop sans d\u00e9tecter leur pr\u00e9sence.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240204-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3738\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240204-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240204-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240204-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240204-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240204.jpg 1333w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Grand gravelot juv\u00e9nile<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240219-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3740\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240219-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240219-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240219-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240219-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240219.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Grand gravelot<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240259-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3741\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240259-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240259-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240259-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240259-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240259.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Grand gravelot juv\u00e9nile<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240276-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3742\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240276-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240276-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240276-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240276-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240276.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Grand gravelot et son petit<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240214-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3739\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240214-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240214-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240214-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240214-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240214.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Grand gravelot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Phil nous a pr\u00e9par\u00e9 une bonne pl\u00e2tr\u00e9e de p\u00e2tes aux oignons mijot\u00e9s qu&rsquo;on engloutit attabl\u00e9s au bord du lac. Un entra\u00eenement de pompiers venus en camion puiser de l&rsquo;eau rend inaudible tout ce que l&rsquo;on se raconte. On est soulag\u00e9s quand le pompage s&rsquo;arr\u00eate enfin&nbsp;! On a une pens\u00e9e pour tous les incendies de for\u00eats qui font rage en ce moment en France, chassant les mammif\u00e8res et les oiseaux loin de chez eux, d\u00e9pla\u00e7ant les vacanciers, les riverains, et mettant \u00e0 rude \u00e9preuve les soldats du feu. La nuit est particuli\u00e8rement fra\u00eeche et humide. On remet nos pyjamas d&rsquo;hiver en laine, et la Chouette hulotte se manifeste dans les grands pins qui couvrent notre tente. Cela faisait longtemps qu&rsquo;on ne l&rsquo;avait pas entendue.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"760\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220801_201342-1024x760.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3557\" style=\"width:840px;height:623px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220801_201342-1024x760.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220801_201342-300x223.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220801_201342-768x570.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220801_201342-1536x1140.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220801_201342-2048x1520.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Retrouvailles avec Phil et Rosy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_080236-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3797\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_080236-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_080236-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_080236-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_080236-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_080236-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_080236-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">2 Ao\u00fbt. Nous arrivons \u00e0 Trondheim, une des villes principales de la Norv\u00e8ge. Les maisons en bande des quartiers r\u00e9sidentiels en pr\u00e9lude de notre entr\u00e9e en ville d\u00e9filent sous nos yeux d&rsquo;architectes s\u00e9duits. Quel soin apport\u00e9 aux d\u00e9tails et aux couleurs. Pas de descente d&rsquo;eau mal plac\u00e9e ou de maladresse apparente de conception. Pas de cl\u00f4ture entre les jardins ni entre la rue et les espaces privatifs. On se croirait dans une perspective d&rsquo;insertion, avec ce couple derri\u00e8re une poussette au premier plan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" data-id=\"3505\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_067.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3505\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_067.webp 1080w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_067-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_067-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_067-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_067-768x768.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La route de la p\u00e9riph\u00e9rie devient avenue, puis l&rsquo;avenue devient rue \u00e0 feux tricolores, et la rue devient pi\u00e9tonne et pav\u00e9e, faisant vibrer et bringuebaler nos v\u00e9los charg\u00e9s jusqu&rsquo;au r\u00e9parateur de v\u00e9lo. Sykkelbua -le nom de l&rsquo;atelier v\u00e9los, est situ\u00e9 dans une cour int\u00e9rieure dont les fa\u00e7ades sont recouvertes de pi\u00e8ces d\u00e9tach\u00e9es. Pas de doute, nous sommes au bon endroit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_105146-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_105146-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_105146-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_105146-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_105146-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_105146-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le diagnostic du m\u00e9canicien de Trondheim confirme celui de Namsos, le moyeu est bien ab\u00eem\u00e9 \u00e0 l&rsquo;int\u00e9rieur. Il remplace toute la roue par un mod\u00e8le que Gabriel avait d\u00e9j\u00e0 vu en magasin mais s&rsquo;\u00e9tait ravis\u00e9, estimant que ce n&rsquo;\u00e9tait pas de la bonne qualit\u00e9. Le m\u00e9cano soutient le contraire et nous dit en haussant les \u00e9paules que c&rsquo;est s\u00fbrement un coup de pas de chance, cette histoire de moyeu. On verra combien de kilom\u00e8tres tiendra celle-ci. les deux galets de d\u00e9railleur de Gabriel sont chang\u00e9s \u00e9galement, il \u00e9tait temps car il s&rsquo;agissait des pi\u00e8ces d&rsquo;origine (datant de 1996).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Apr\u00e8s le soulagement de la r\u00e9paration, nous traversons Trondheim un peu plus insouciants qu&rsquo;auparavant. La ville est baign\u00e9e de soleil. Nous nous m\u00ealons aux touristes qui fl\u00e2nent dans les rues fleuries et se prennent en photo sur une passerelle en bois, devant les pignons color\u00e9s des b\u00e2timents sur pilotis. Sur la place o\u00f9 nous avons choisi de d\u00e9jeuner, un accord\u00e9oniste massacre les classiques de C\u00e9saria \u00c9vora et enchaine sur une reprise acc\u00e9l\u00e9r\u00e9e de \u00ab&nbsp;Despacito&nbsp;\u00bb le tube latino interplan\u00e9taire. Vous savez, un de ces morceaux qui restent dans la t\u00eate pendant des jours et des jours.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144236_873-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3510\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144236_873-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144236_873-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144236_873-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144236_873-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144236_873.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Trondheim<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"512\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_124353-1024x512.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3799\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_124353-1024x512.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_124353-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_124353-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_124353-1536x768.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220802_124353-2048x1024.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La sortie de la zone urbanis\u00e9e est longue mais agr\u00e9able, le long d&rsquo;un itin\u00e9raire c\u00f4tier o\u00f9 nous rencontrons un cyclotouriste de Tel Aviv, tout frais sorti de l&rsquo;a\u00e9roport de Trondheim. Son projet est de parcourir deux cents kilom\u00e8tres par jour en passant sur la c\u00f4te Ouest et par Bergen. On remarque son sac de couchage expos\u00e9 aux intemp\u00e9ries et l&rsquo;informe de la versatilit\u00e9 de la m\u00e9t\u00e9o norv\u00e9gienne, surtout sur l&rsquo;Atlantique. Il mime un doigt mouill\u00e9 au vent et nous explique qu&rsquo;il fera \u00ab&nbsp;\u00e0 l&rsquo;instinct&nbsp;\u00bb. Nous bifurquons avant d&rsquo;atteindre Orkanger o\u00f9 il se rend et lui souhaitons bon courage&#8230;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Quant \u00e0 nous, nous tra\u00e7ons plein Sud vers les montagnes. \u00ab&nbsp;Au revoir mer&nbsp;! Au revoir eau sal\u00e9e&nbsp;! Nous ne te reverrons pas avant Oslo&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb. Au d\u00e9tour d&rsquo;une piste nous remarquons un champ bordant une maison abandonn\u00e9e. Nous contournons la modeste construction de bois blanc d\u00e9lav\u00e9 en se disant qu&rsquo;elle a d\u00fb \u00eatre belle un jour, remplie de vie, de repas de f\u00eates et de voix d&rsquo;enfants. Un \u00e9pais fourr\u00e9 de framboisiers et de balsamines nous en s\u00e9pare. Nous choisissons de nous installer pr\u00e8s d&rsquo;un aulne, l\u00e0 o\u00f9 le terrain penche un peu moins en s&rsquo;interrogeant sur la direction du vent et le ruissellement de l&rsquo;eau de pluie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_228-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3506\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_228-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_228-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_228-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_228-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_228.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Bivouac parfum\u00e9 \u00e0 la balsamine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il n&rsquo;a pas plu tant que \u00e7a dans la nuit. L&rsquo;herbe couch\u00e9e&nbsp; par la tente est compl\u00e8tement s\u00e8che lorsque l&rsquo;on retire la b\u00e2che que nous pla\u00e7ons avant de la planter. En partant, nous apercevons dans un \u00e9pic\u00e9a l&rsquo;oiseau qui poussait des cris depuis hier soir. Ce n&rsquo;\u00e9tait pas une chouette comme on le pensait, c&rsquo;est un rapace diurne. Maintenant, un bon d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 sur de la piste grise de poussi\u00e8re de granit nous attend. Il nous m\u00e8nera au village de Fanrem par une grande descente qui use nos patins de freins. La pluie arrive vite. Nous trouvons refuge sous un abri \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 du cimeti\u00e8re o\u00f9 nous sommes venus pour remplir nos gourdes. Les WC chauff\u00e9s nous serviront aussi de salle de bain temporaire. La pluie s&rsquo;intensifie, nous d\u00e9cidons d&rsquo;y rester pour manger. Le temps passe sans que la pluie ne cesse. Nous profitons d&rsquo;une petite accalmie pour rejoindre rapidement la premi\u00e8re station service. On y passera une grande partie de l&rsquo;apr\u00e8s-midi, \u00e0 siroter un bon chocolat chaud.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_280-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3502\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_280-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_280-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_280-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_280-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_280.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_364-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3503\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_364-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_364-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_364-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_364-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_364.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240326-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3744\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240326-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240326-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240326-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240326-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240326.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En pr\u00e9vision des futures c\u00f4tes que les massifs montagneux de la Norv\u00e8ge nous r\u00e9servent, trois kilos sont soustraits \u00e0 notre chargement&nbsp;: nous les renvoyons en France par colis postal car nous pouvons le faire d&rsquo;ici. Dehors le temps s&rsquo;am\u00e9liore, on reprend la route jusqu&rsquo;au lieu de bivouac. Avec surprise nous d\u00e9couvrons une petite cabane de rondins cach\u00e9e entre des arbres, signal\u00e9 avec le pictogramme du chemin du p\u00e8lerinage de Saint Olav. Il y a de quoi \u00e9taler nos matelas sur les larges bancs formant un \u00ab&nbsp;U&nbsp;\u00bb le long des trois murs du refuge. Un troupeau de vaches curieuses se pr\u00e9cipite vers la cl\u00f4ture attenante. Comme si nous avions quelque chose \u00e0 leur offrir. Des gousses de lupins, vous aimez \u00e7a le lupin&nbsp;? \u00c7a a l&rsquo;air de leur plaire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240325-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3743\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240325-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240325-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240325-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240325-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240325.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_402-1024x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3508\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_402-1024x1024.webp 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_402-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_402-150x150.webp 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_402-768x768.webp 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220806_144237_402.webp 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"512\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220803_180309-1024x512.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3801\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220803_180309-1024x512.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220803_180309-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220803_180309-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220803_180309-1536x768.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220803_180309-2048x1024.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Quelques instants plus tard, Gabriel part en qu\u00eate d&rsquo;eau vers la rivi\u00e8re et Marine est all\u00e9e chercher le soleil \u00e0 l&rsquo;entr\u00e9e de l&rsquo;enclos en contrebas. Surgit alors un cycliste \u00e0 sacoches, qui prend la m\u00eame impulsion que nous dans la petite sente raide qui m\u00e8ne au refuge. Un grand gars, chevelure blonde d\u00e9passant en chignon de sa casquette, barbe de quelques jours et tout en gestes \u00e9nergiques. Il se pr\u00e9sente \u00e0 Marine en lui tendant la main avec un large sourire. \u00ab&nbsp;Joerg, enchant\u00e9&nbsp;\u00bb. Il a les yeux bleus et le front l\u00e9g\u00e8rement pro\u00e9minent. La tante de Marine aurait dit avec son accent bourgeois \u00e0 la Val\u00e9rie Lemercier&nbsp;: \u00ab&nbsp;il est beau comme un astre&nbsp;\u00bb. Sa tenue d\u00e9note avec la n\u00f4tre. D\u00e9bardeur d\u00e9lav\u00e9 qui a d\u00fb un jour avoir des manches si l&rsquo;on en juge par les bords approximativement d\u00e9coup\u00e9s, un short long taill\u00e9 dans un ancien pantalon \u00e9tanche, et pieds nus par dessus le march\u00e9&nbsp;!&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Joerg est un cycliste au long cours, qui ne compte plus de mille en mille les kilom\u00e8tres au compteur, mais plut\u00f4t par dizaines de milliers. Il vient de passer le cap des cinquante cinq mille. \u00ab&nbsp;C&rsquo;est un beau chiffre, je trouve&nbsp;\u00bb, dit il en fran\u00e7ais avec un petit accent allemand. Professeur de langues occasionnel, il a beaucoup voyag\u00e9 et habit\u00e9 un peu partout. Paris (capitale de la baguette), Wuhan (capitale du pangolin), Aix la chapelle &#8211; dont il est originaire, et Ath\u00e8nes d&rsquo;o\u00f9 il est parti en Avril pour rejoindre le Cap Nord. Il nous propose des bananes, r\u00e9cup\u00e9r\u00e9es dans les poubelles naturellement. Nous passons une agr\u00e9able soir\u00e9e \u00e0 bavarder \u00ab&nbsp;matos&nbsp;\u00bb et admirer son \u00e9quipement puis nous endormons tous les trois dans le refuge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Est-ce le fait d&rsquo;avoir pass\u00e9 la nuit dans un espace clos qui nous donne cette sensation d&rsquo;avoir manqu\u00e9 d&rsquo;air ? Au moins nous \u00e9tions bien \u00e0 l&rsquo;abri, \u00e0 regarder la pluie taper sur les carreaux de l&rsquo;unique fen\u00eatre.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous prenons le d\u00e9part avec Joerg vers 9 heures, qui nous distance assez rapidement mais nous tenons bon derri\u00e8re lui. Nous avons parcouru ensemble quatre-vingt-cinq kilom\u00e8tres en moins de quatre heures. Du jamais vu pour les cyclopith\u00e8ques&nbsp;! \u00c0 cette allure, nous n&rsquo;avons pas pu nous arr\u00eater devant une colonie d&rsquo;Hirondelles de rivage dans un talus plein de trous en bord de route, ni r\u00e9cup\u00e9r\u00e9 cette belle casquette grise du bas-c\u00f4t\u00e9. Dommage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240330-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3745\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240330-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240330-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240330-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240330-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240330.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Avec Joerg<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pause \u00e0 Berk\u00e5k pour nos ravitaillements respectifs et chocolat chaud dans une station service. Nous nous arr\u00eatons finalement \u00e0 Oppdal dans un camping et plantons la tente, sentant l&rsquo;orage arriver. Joerg est hors de notre vue, loin devant, et nous avons quelques remords \u00e0 ne pas l&rsquo;avoir salu\u00e9 une derni\u00e8re fois. Nous \u00e9changeons un peu plus tard en soir\u00e9e. Il nous avait attendu un moment puis a poursuivi sa route.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le 5 Ao\u00fbt, rien \u00e0 signaler. Nous faisons une journ\u00e9e de repos int\u00e9gral sous la pluie dans ce camping qui ressemble \u00e0 un village de caravanes, o\u00f9 chacune dispose d&rsquo;une annexe en \u00ab&nbsp;dur&nbsp;\u00bb. Le temps s&rsquo;am\u00e9liore un peu le lendemain, et nos voisins sortent tondeuses et rotofil pour parfaire l&rsquo;\u00e9tat du gazon aux abords de leur habitation d&rsquo;\u00e9t\u00e9. Ha, la fascination des norv\u00e9giens pour le gazon bien net&nbsp;! Chaque bout de jardin est absolument parfait et rares sont ceux o\u00f9 l&rsquo;on trouve encore des herbes hautes cachant les li\u00e8vres et les mulots, et des gramin\u00e9s \u00e0 papillons jouant dans le vent. La tondeuse automatique est partout&nbsp;! Vous savez, ce robot qui rase tout sur son passage, plus efficace qu&rsquo;un troupeau de brebis, et qui ne fait pas de crottes, lui.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220805_120054-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3802\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220805_120054-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220805_120054-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220805_120054-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220805_120054-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220805_120054-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220805_120054-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"512\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220805_115855-1024x512.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3803\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220805_115855-1024x512.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220805_115855-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220805_115855-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220805_115855-1536x768.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220805_115855-2048x1024.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240373-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3747\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240373-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240373-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240373-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240373-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240373.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Tarin des aulnes<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240429-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3749\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240429-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240429-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240429-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240429-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240429.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Tarin des aulnes<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le 6 ao\u00fbt, nous allons \u00ab&nbsp;en ville&nbsp;\u00bb, expression qui pour Marine signifiait, il y a longtemps, de se rendre en bus \u00e0 Grenoble&nbsp; avec les copines de Saint-\u00c9gr\u00e8ve. \u00ab&nbsp;Aller en ville&nbsp;\u00bb pour un cin\u00e9, les magasins, ou prendre une glace dans les rues min\u00e9rales et surchauff\u00e9es du centre. Gabriel remarque qu&rsquo;elle met ses boucles d&rsquo;oreilles, comme pour honorer ces moments o\u00f9, adolescente, elle s&rsquo;y rendait plus appr\u00eat\u00e9e que d&rsquo;ordinaire. On plaisante sur cette coquetterie qui tranche avec sa tenue de baroudeuse, veste d\u00e9color\u00e9e par les UV et pantalon bicolore us\u00e9, puis prenons la direction d&rsquo;Oppdal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pendant que nous d\u00e9jeunons dehors, un moineau percute en plein vol le b\u00e2timent qui nous fait face et tombe au pied de la fa\u00e7ade vitr\u00e9e. Il fait quelques pas pour trouver refuge sous la penderie ext\u00e9rieure d&rsquo;un magasin de v\u00eatements. Ne voulant pas le laisser \u00e0 la merci des chiens et dans le flot stressant des chaussures des passants, Gabriel se l\u00e8ve, le prend dans ses deux mains formant une grotte autour de l&rsquo;oiseau, et le d\u00e9pose dans la plate-bande devant nous. Le moineau part se cacher sous de larges feuilles.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous restons longuement \u00e0 l&rsquo;\u00e9tage d&rsquo;un centre commercial o\u00f9 les meubles d&rsquo;un caf\u00e9 manifestement liquid\u00e9 nous offre un bureau id\u00e9al, en mezzanine&nbsp;sur les rayons de la grande surface du rez-de-chauss\u00e9e. Et avec wifi en prime. De quoi consulter internet \u00e0 volont\u00e9 pour pr\u00e9parer notre prochaine excursion en montagne. La m\u00e9t\u00e9o est excellente demain, un train peut nous d\u00e9poser au d\u00e9part de la randonn\u00e9e. Nous laisserons donc toutes nos affaires au camping et partirons plus l\u00e9gers, avec le n\u00e9cessaire dans nos sacs \u00e0 dos en toile&nbsp;: eau, casse-cro\u00fbte, et mat\u00e9riel d&rsquo;observation. Pour observer quoi, nous direz-vous. Encore des oiseaux&nbsp;? Pas que.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Les montagnes du massif du Dovrefjell sont un des derniers refuges d&rsquo;une population de b\u0153ufs musqu\u00e9s \u00e0 l&rsquo;\u00e9tat sauvage. Ce caprin\u00e9 primitif (cousin des ch\u00e8vres), adapt\u00e9 \u00e0 la rudesse du climat arctique a \u00e9t\u00e9 r\u00e9introduit en Scandinavie alors qu&rsquo;il \u00e9tait proche de l&rsquo;extinction due \u00e0 la chasse. Il y en aurait moins de trois cents individus dans le massif aujourd&rsquo;hui. Une carte disponible \u00e0 l&rsquo;Office du tourisme, le \u00ab&nbsp;Muskox trail&nbsp;\u00bb (randonn\u00e9e des b\u0153ufs musqu\u00e9s) balise un ensemble de sentiers o\u00f9 nous aurions des chances d&rsquo;en voir. Il totalise une vingtaine de kilom\u00e8tres de chemins que l&rsquo;on ne pourra pas parcourir en une seule journ\u00e9e. Nous optons pour un d\u00e9part depuis la gare de train de Kongsvoll, plus pratique pour nous. Le premier train part \u00e0 10 heures demain matin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous sommes sur le quai la gare d&rsquo;Oppdal, avec beaucoup d&rsquo;avance. Nous entendons siffler les rails pendant que l&rsquo;on cherche sur nos billets nos num\u00e9ros de si\u00e8ges. Voiture num\u00e9ro 3, places 138 et 139 ! Nous remontons la vall\u00e9e vers le Sud, que l&rsquo;on empruntera plus tard \u00e0 v\u00e9lo. Elle se r\u00e9tr\u00e9cit puis s&rsquo;\u00e9largit de nouveau en arrivant \u00e0 Kongsvoll stasjon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_093655-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3804\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_093655-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_093655-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_093655-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_093655-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_093655-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_093655-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Gare de Oppdal<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_095647-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3805\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_095647-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_095647-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_095647-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_095647-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_095647-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_095647-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240486-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3752\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240486-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240486-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240486-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240486-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240486-rotated.jpg 1333w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240485-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3751\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240485-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240485-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240485-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240485-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240485.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et maintenant, en route&nbsp;! Nous p\u00e9n\u00e9trons dans le parc National du Dovrefjell dont nous r\u00eavions depuis longtemps, sans savoir qu&rsquo;on y arriverait pendant cette aventure \u00e0 v\u00e9lo. Car ce n&rsquo;\u00e9tait pas sur notre itin\u00e9raire initial. La premi\u00e8re fois que nous avions entendu \u00ab&nbsp;Dovrefjell&nbsp;\u00bb, c&rsquo;\u00e9tait il y a quelques ann\u00e9es dans un beau documentaire d&rsquo;Arte. On y voyait les hauts plateaux de toundra et ces habitants au long poil venus d&rsquo;un autre \u00e2ge.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240490-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3753\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240490-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240490-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240490-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240490-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240490.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Apr\u00e8s une courte ascension dans la for\u00eat de bouleaux au parterre d&rsquo;aconits et de saules, nous atteignons l&rsquo;\u00e9tage o\u00f9 la v\u00e9g\u00e9tation se fait rase, faite de lichens, d&#8217;empretum et de bouleaux rampants qui nous rappellent le Varanger. Nous ne savons pas qu&rsquo;elle direction prendre alors Marine scanne \u00e0 la longue-vue en qu\u00eate d&rsquo;indices. Hourra! Un petit troupeau de cinq individus broute au loin sur les flancs escarp\u00e9s. Plus loin encore, apr\u00e8s un grand pierrier, il y en a une dizaine, avec des petits semble-t-il. Nous empruntons un chemin qui s&rsquo;y dirige, quand une heure plus tard, un Boeuf musqu\u00e9 fait appara\u00eetre sa silhouette massive sur une cr\u00eate en fond de ciel. Il appartient \u00e0 un troisi\u00e8me groupe que nous n&rsquo;avions pas rep\u00e9r\u00e9 \u00e0 l&rsquo;avance, bien que plus proche. Nous sommes \u00e0 plus de cinq cents m\u00e8tres pour l&rsquo;instant. La distance de s\u00e9curit\u00e9 \u00e0 tenir est d&rsquo;au moins deux cents m\u00e8tres (en de\u00e7\u00e0, les animaux se sentent menac\u00e9s et peuvent charger).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240491-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3754\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240491-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240491-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240491-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240491-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240491.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240505-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3755\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240505-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240505-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240505-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240505-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240505.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Pluvier dor\u00e9 <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240509-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3756\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240509-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240509-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240509-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240509-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240509-rotated.jpg 1333w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240513-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3757\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240513-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240513-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240513-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240513-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240513.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240520-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3758\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240520-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240520-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240520-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240520-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240520.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">De loin, nous voyons deux groupes d&rsquo;une quinzaine de randonneurs chacun, se diriger vers le m\u00eame endroit que nous. Ils suivent en file indienne leur guide&nbsp;: ce sont des tours organis\u00e9s, les fameux Muskox Safaris dont on voit les publicit\u00e9s un peu partout dans la r\u00e9gion. C&rsquo;est signe que nous sommes au bon endroit, mais aussi que tout ce flot va bient\u00f4t venir vers nous. Nous pressons le pas pour prendre de l&rsquo;avance sur eux. \u00c0 mesure que les groupes arrivent, les Boeufs musqu\u00e9s s&rsquo;\u00e9loignent derri\u00e8re le relief et disparaissent. Nous avons eu le temps d&rsquo;apercevoir des silhouettes et c&rsquo;est d\u00e9j\u00e0 termin\u00e9. Nous prenons notre casse-cro\u00fbte sur place dans l&rsquo;espoir de les voir surgir de nouveau, en vain. Les groupes en font de m\u00eame puis repartent.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_132030-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3806\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_132030-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_132030-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_132030-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_132030-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_132030-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"512\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_132946-1024x512.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3807\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_132946-1024x512.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_132946-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_132946-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_132946-1536x768.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/IMG_20220807_132946-2048x1024.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240555-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3762\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240555-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240555-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240555-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240555-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240555.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous partons ensuite explorer le plateau un peu plus haut. Les couleurs de ces parterres de toundra changent avec les passages nuageux. C&rsquo;est d&rsquo;une beaut\u00e9 \u00e0 couper le souffle. En remontant un torrent, nous apercevons au loin sur le nouveau plateau o\u00f9 nous arrivons, un groupe de chevaux sauvages. Nous amor\u00e7ons la descente car il nous reste pr\u00e8s de trois heures de marche en sens inverse, pour retrouver le quai de la gare. Au bout d&rsquo;une demi-heure de descente raide, Marine jette un dernier coup d&rsquo;\u0153il en arri\u00e8re, comme pour dire au-revoir \u00e0 tout \u00e7a. \u00abGab, regarde ! Ils sont l\u00e0&nbsp;!&nbsp;On fait demi-tour&nbsp;?\u00bb Bien s\u00fbr qu&rsquo;on fait demi-tour&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240550-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3761\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240550-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240550-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240550-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240550-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240550.jpg 1333w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous remontons la pente au pas de course. Deux personnes sont post\u00e9es avec leurs jumelles derri\u00e8re un rocher, \u00e0 leur hauteur. On avance au-dessus d&rsquo;elles pour avoir un point de vue plus g\u00e9n\u00e9ral, puis retenons notre respiration. Le vent soufflant vers les animaux, ils ont s\u00fbrement d\u00e9j\u00e0 flair\u00e9 notre pr\u00e9sence. Ils restent cependant paisibles, \u00e0 brouter, ruminer ou faire la sieste. Les deux plus petits hal\u00e8tent, allong\u00e9s sur le c\u00f4t\u00e9. Est-ce qu&rsquo;ils ont trop chaud par vingt degr\u00e9s au soleil sous leur \u00e9paisse toison brune&nbsp;? Les adultes arborent des cornes aplaties formant une raie au milieu qui leur donne un air bien peign\u00e9, \u00e0 l&rsquo;inverse des plus jeunes qui ont encore quelques poils clairs \u00e0 cet endroit. Leur gros manteau de tr\u00e8s longs poils ondule dans le vent comme les hautes herbes. Il s&rsquo;arr\u00eate net, \u00e0 l&rsquo;horizontale, au-dessus de leurs \u00e9paisses pattes blanches. Leur regard est doux. Que voient-ils du monde \u00e0 travers leurs pupilles noires&nbsp;?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240650-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3773\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240650-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240650-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240650-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240650-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240650.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240557-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3763\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240557-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240557-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240557-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240557-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240557.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  B\u0153ufs musqu\u00e9s<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240571-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3764\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240571-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240571-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240571-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240571-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240571.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240581-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3765\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240581-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240581-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240581-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240581-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240581.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  B\u0153ufs musqu\u00e9s<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240618-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240618-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240618-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240618-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240618-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240618.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240536-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3760\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240536-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240536-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240536-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240536-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240536.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">B\u0153uf musqu\u00e9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous avons pass\u00e9 pr\u00e8s d&rsquo;une heure hors du temps \u00e0 les observer. Il est maintenant l&rsquo;heure de rentrer.&nbsp;En montant dans la for\u00eat, nous avions manqu\u00e9 \u00e0 plusieurs reprises les Bergeronnettes printani\u00e8res dans les bouleaux. Gabriel avait sorti pour l&rsquo;occasion un nouveau proverbe&nbsp;: \u00ab&nbsp; Pas de Bergeronnette \u00e0 l&rsquo;aller, b\u0153uf musqu\u00e9 \u00e0 l&rsquo;arriv\u00e9e&nbsp;!&nbsp;\u00bb histoire d&rsquo;invoquer quelque chose qui pourrait jouer en notre faveur. Il se trouve qu&rsquo;elles ont bien voulu se laisser prendre en photo au retour. C&rsquo;est une grande migratrice qui va bient\u00f4t quitter la Norv\u00e8ge o\u00f9 elle a \u00e9lev\u00e9 ses petits, et prendre la direction de l&rsquo;Afrique subsaharienne pour y passer l&rsquo;hiver.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240702-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3776\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240702-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240702-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240702-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240702-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240702.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240719-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3778\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240719-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240719-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240719-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240719-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240719.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240713-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3777\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240713-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240713-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240713-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240713-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240713.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Rougequeue \u00e0 front blanc<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240763-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3781\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240763-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240763-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240763-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240763-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240763.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Bergeronnette printani\u00e8re <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240766-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3783\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240766-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240766-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240766-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240766-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240766.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Gorgebleue \u00e0 miroir<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240764-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3782\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240764-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240764-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240764-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240764-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240764-rotated.jpg 1333w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240770-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3784\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240770-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240770-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240770-768x1151.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240770-1025x1536.jpg 1025w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/LOW__1240770.jpg 1334w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nos pens\u00e9es sont avec les b\u0153ufs musqu\u00e9s et l&rsquo;ambiance de toundra quand d\u00e9filent sous nos yeux le paysage vu du train.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Pour ne pas&nbsp; briser la routine, en ce Jeudi 21 Juillet , nous reprenons la route sous la pluie au d\u00e9part de Reip\u00e5. Nous roulons jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 \u00d8rnes faire le ravitaillement et attendre le ferry. Nous avons quelques heures devant nous et on s&rsquo;essaie \u00e0 la maraude des poubelles du supermarch\u00e9. Nous avons appris&nbsp; depuis quelques [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3498","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3498","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3498"}],"version-history":[{"count":70,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3498\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8600,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3498\/revisions\/8600"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3498"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=3498"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=3498"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}