{"id":4200,"date":"2022-11-03T21:00:36","date_gmt":"2022-11-03T20:00:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/?p=4200"},"modified":"2024-08-01T18:49:33","modified_gmt":"2024-08-01T16:49:33","slug":"22-swinoujscie-jelenia-gora-km-8727-km-9330","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/?p=4200","title":{"rendered":"22 &#8211; \u015awinouj\u015bcie > Jelenia g\u00f3ra (km 8727 &#8211; km 9330)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n        <div id=\"map_ol3js_1\"\n       class=\"osm-map-container undefined\"\n             data-map_name=\"undefined\"\n             data-map=\"map_ol3js_1\"\n             style=\"width:100%;\n                    max-width:100%;\n                    height:450px;\n                    display:block;\n                    overflow:hidden;\n                    border:thin solid blue;\">\n          <div id=\"map_ol3js_1_popup\" class=\"ol-popup\">\n            <a href=\"#\" id=\"map_ol3js_1_popup-closer\" class=\"ol-popup-closer\"><\/a>\n            <div id=\"map_ol3js_1_popup-content\"><\/div>\n          <\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    \n\n\t\t\t\t<script type=\"text\/javascript\">\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['openlayer'] = \"open layer\";\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['openlayerAtStartup'] = \"open layer at startup\";\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['generateLink'] = \"link to this map with opened layers\";\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['shortDescription'] = \"short description\";\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['generatedShortCode'] = \"to get a text control link paste this code in your wordpress editor\";\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['closeLayer'] = \"close layer\";\n\t\t\t\t\ttranslations['cantGenerateLink'] = \"put this string in the existing map short code to control this map\";\n\t\t\t  <\/script>\n\n\n\t\t\t  <script type=\"text\/javascript\">\n\t\t\t  vectorM['map_ol3js_1'] = [];\n\t        \n        var raster = getTileLayer(\"osm\",\"NoKey\");\t\t\t\n\n\t\t\t  var map_ol3js_1 = new ol.Map({\n\t\t\t\tinteractions: ol.interaction.defaults.defaults({mouseWheelZoom:false}),\n\t\t\t\tlayers: [raster],\n\t\t\t\ttarget: \"map_ol3js_1\",\n\t\t\t\tview: new ol.View({\n\t\t\t\t  center: ol.proj.transform([6.378,58.213], \"EPSG:4326\", \"EPSG:3857\"),\n\t\t\t\t  zoom: 9\n\t\t\t\t})\n\t\t\t  });\n\t\t\t  \n    var style0 = {\n      \"Point\": [new ol.style.Style({\n\n          image: new ol.style.Icon({\n            anchor: [0.5, 41],\n            anchorXUnits: \"fraction\",\n            anchorYUnits: \"pixels\",\n            opacity: 0.75,\n            src: \"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/osm\/icons\/mic_red_pinother_02.png\"\n          })\n      })],\n\n      \"LineString\": [new ol.style.Style({\n        stroke: new ol.style.Stroke({\n          color: \"red\",\n          width: 8\n        })\n      })],\n      \"MultiLineString\": [new ol.style.Style({\n        stroke: new ol.style.Stroke({\n          color: \"red\",\n          width: 4\n        })\n      })]\n    };\n\t\t  var vectorL0 = new ol.layer.Vector({\n\t\t\t\tsource: new ol.source.Vector({\n\t\t\t\turl:\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/GPX\/GPX22.gpx\",\n\t\t\t\tformat: new ol.format.GPX({\n\t\t\t\t\textractStyles: false\n\t\t\t\t})\n\t\t\t}),\n\t\t\tzIndex: 92,\n\t\t\tstyle: function(feature, resolution) {return style0[feature.getGeometry().getType()];}\n\t\t  });\n\t\t  map_ol3js_1.addLayer(vectorL0);\n      var extension1 = ol.extent.createEmpty();\n      var curZoom1 = map_ol3js_1.getView().getZoom();\n\n      map_ol3js_1.getLayers().forEach(function(layer){\n         if(!layer.get(\"id\")) {     \n            layer.once(\"change\", function(e){\n               ol.extent.extend(extension1, (layer.getSource().getExtent()));\n               map_ol3js_1.getView().fit(extension1, {padding: [50, 50, 50, 50]});\n            });\n         }\n      });\n\n    \naddControls2Map(map_ol3js_1,0,1,3,0,5,6,7,0,1);\nosm_addPopupClickhandler(map_ol3js_1,  \"map_ol3js_1\"); \nosm_addMouseHover(map_ol3js_1); <\/script>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:30px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>2022\/09\/21 <strong>Repos \u00e0 \u015awinouj\u015bcie<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/09\/22 \u015awinouj\u015bcie &#8211; Karsibor, 30 km. <strong>La nuit du brame<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/09\/23 Karsibor &#8211; Skoszewo, 50 km. <strong>La plage du renard<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/09\/24 Skoszewo &#8211; Lubczyna, 55 km. <strong>Des roseli\u00e8res et une t\u00eate de sanglier<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/09\/25 Lubczyna &#8211; Szczecin, 25 km. <strong>Ensablement dans la pampa polonaise<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/01 Szczecin &#8211; Swedt, 71 km. <strong>L&rsquo;Oder rive Ouest<\/strong>, <strong>c\u00f4t\u00e9 allemand<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/02 Swedt &#8211; Neulewin, 56 km. <strong>Alerte \u00e0 la peste au dortoir des grues<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/03 Neulewin &#8211; Przybor\u00f3w, 63 km. <strong>L&#8217;embouchure de la Warta<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/04 Przybor\u00f3w &#8211; Rzepin, 44 km. <strong>klimat kaput <\/strong>!<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/05 Rzepin &#8211; Dabie, 59 km. <strong>L&rsquo;\u00e9tang des castors<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/06 Dabie &#8211; Lawszowa, 79 km. <strong>Inauguration du nouveau r\u00e9chaud<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/07 Lawszowa &#8211; Brun\u00f3w, 42 km. <strong>Petite centrale hydro\u00e9lectrique sur la B\u00f3br<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/08 Brun\u00f3w &#8211; Jelenia g\u00f3ra, 39 km. <strong>Les montagnes de la fronti\u00e8re tch\u00e8que<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290411.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4709\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290411.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290411-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290411-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290411-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290411-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Mercredi 21 Septembre. La nuit sur les si\u00e8ges raides du bateau \u00e0 \u00e9t\u00e9 difficile. A 5h30 retentit la premi\u00e8re annonce en polonais pour inviter les passagers \u00e0 venir rejoindre le restaurant. Tr\u00e8s vite nous arrivons au port de Swinoujscie et devons rejoindre nos v\u00e9los car nous d\u00e9barquons en premier. Apr\u00e8s quelques camions, c&rsquo;est notre tour. \u00c7a y est nous sommes en Pologne. Direction le bac qui nous permettra de rejoindre la ville, c\u00f4t\u00e9 Ouest de la rivi\u00e8re Swina. Il n\u2019y a pas de pont, c&rsquo;est le seul moyen de passer d&rsquo;une rive \u00e0 l&rsquo;autre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290415.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4712\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290415.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290415-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290415-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290415-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290415-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290418.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4713\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290418.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290418-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290418-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290418-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290418-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Un lever de soleil spectaculaire illumine les toitures de la ville qui se r\u00e9veille. Les balayeurs, les coll\u00e9giens, les passants s&rsquo;activent et s&rsquo;appliquent \u00e0 leurs t\u00e2ches. Encore sonn\u00e9s de notre nuit nous improvisons un petit d\u00e9jeuner sur un banc de la place Wolno\u015bci puis allons chercher le soleil sur les quais o\u00f9 est amarr\u00e9 le Princess, une navette de visites touristiques. L&rsquo;id\u00e9e de rejoindre un camping devient rapidement \u00e9vidente. Il faut que nous terminions notre nuit, ou que nous la commencions, nous ne savons pas tr\u00e8s bien.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290421-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4714\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290421-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290421-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290421-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290421-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290421-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>jeudi 22 septembre. Dans la cuisine du camping, l&rsquo;eau bout dans une casserole \u00e0 la d\u00e9coration florale d\u00e9mod\u00e9e. De l&rsquo;eau bouillante dans notre thermos et c&rsquo;est notre repas chaud du soir qui est assur\u00e9, alors on profite de la cuisini\u00e8re qui nous est mise \u00e0 disposition. Nous sommes sur le d\u00e9part et il fait frais, ce matin on aurait presque besoin de gants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290433.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4715\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290433.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290433-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290433-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290433-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290433-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Ravitaillement dans le premier supermarch\u00e9 polonais: Gabriel en ressort enthousiaste \u00ab&nbsp;tellement de nouveaux produits et une nouvelle ambiance. En plus je ne comprends rien de rien, j&rsquo;ai pris un truc qui pourrait \u00eatre du fromage blanc, enfin j\u2019esp\u00e8re.&nbsp;\u00bb C\u2019est surtout tellement moins cher qu\u2019en Scandinavie, on va enfin pouvoir manger plus de l\u00e9gumes&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La sortie de la ville est rapide, le fl\u00e9chage de l&rsquo;itin\u00e9raire v\u00e9lo est bien fait. On p\u00e9dale le long d&rsquo;un canal pour rejoindre une r\u00e9serve qui s&rsquo;av\u00e8re finalement tr\u00e8s difficile d\u2019acc\u00e8s \u00e0 v\u00e9lo. En chemin, un vison rend visite \u00e0 Gabriel. Le petit animal s&rsquo;approche tout pr\u00e8s, se dresse sur ses pattes arri\u00e8res et renifle en direction du v\u00e9lo. Se d\u00e9place un peu plus \u00e0 gauche et refait de m\u00eame, il n&rsquo;a pas l&rsquo;air de l&rsquo;avoir vu. Lorsque Marine arrive, il se cache sous une des roches qui forment la digue et n\u2019en ressort plus. Plus tard on apprendra que ce mammif\u00e8re n&rsquo;a pas une tr\u00e8s bonne vue et celui-l\u00e0 ne devait pas avoir un tr\u00e8s bon flair, vu la proximit\u00e9 qu\u2019il a \u00e9tablie avec un humain. Il s\u2019agit probablement d\u2019un Vison d\u2019Am\u00e9rique, une esp\u00e8ce introduite pour l\u2019\u00e9levage de fourrure et consid\u00e9r\u00e9e aujourd&rsquo;hui comme invasive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery aligncenter has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" data-id=\"4717\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290452-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4717\" style=\"aspect-ratio:3\/4;object-fit:cover\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290452-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290452-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290452-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290452-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290452-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" data-id=\"4718\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290477-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4718\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290477-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290477-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290477-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290477-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290477-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><\/figure>\n<figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-caption wp-element-caption\">Vison d&rsquo;Am\u00e9rique<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>On tente d\u2019autres chemins pour finalement acc\u00e9der par un sentier tout terrain et pour lequel nos v\u00e9los ne sont pas adapt\u00e9s. Quelques kilom\u00e8tres plus loin nous arrivons soulag\u00e9s \u00e0 un observatoire parfait pour une pause, plac\u00e9 dans une clairi\u00e8re o\u00f9 retentissent les cris de trois pics diff\u00e9rents&nbsp;: le Pic noir, le Pic \u00e9peiche, et le Pic \u00e9peichette, nous profitons des grosses tables dispos\u00e9es au pied de la tour d&rsquo;observation qui culmine \u00e0 une dizaine de m\u00e8tres de hauteur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290493.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4723\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290493.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290493-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290493-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290493-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290493-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" data-id=\"4722\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290483.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4722\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290483.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290483-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290483-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290483-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290483-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" data-id=\"4721\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290480-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4721\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290480-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290480-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290480-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290480-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290480-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Une fois nos estomacs rassasi\u00e9s on fait demi-tour pour aller attraper un bac un peu plus loin et poursuivre notre route vers le bivouac de ce soir. Les v\u00e9los vibrent sur les dalles de b\u00e9ton perfor\u00e9es, cela demande beaucoup de concentration pour rouler sur les parties lisses. Nous arrivons \u00e0 l&#8217;embarcad\u00e8re pile au moment o\u00f9 l\u2019embarcation se vide des derniers v\u00e9hicules venus de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9. Esp\u00e9rons que l\u2019\u00eele de Karsib\u00f3r nous permettra d\u2019y passer la nuit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290563-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4735\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290563-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290563-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290563-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290563-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290563-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>L\u2019\u00eele est pour partie habit\u00e9e, et une grande zone humide est class\u00e9e en r\u00e9serve naturelle. En arrivant sur place, nous jaugeons \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9tendue des roseli\u00e8res que notre bivouac se complique. Le lieu est couvert de roseli\u00e8res, les herbes sont hautes et la terre d\u00e9tremp\u00e9e.<br>Heureusement, quelques centaines de m\u00e8tres plus loin, \u00e0 proximit\u00e9 d\u2019un observatoire si d\u00e9labr\u00e9 qu\u2019on ose y grimper, il y a un champ de p\u00e2ture non clos \u00e0 l&rsquo;herbe rase. Seul b\u00e9mol, les abords sont bien retourn\u00e9s par les sangliers. On se choisit le carr\u00e9 d\u2019herbe que l\u2019on juge le plus sec et le plus \u00e9loign\u00e9 des traces de b\u00eates \u00e0 groin. Les v\u00e9los sont plac\u00e9s debout en quinconce, l\u2019un sur l\u2019autre et bien stables. \u00c7a fera un pare-sangliers&nbsp; du plus bel effet.<br>Quelques busards font leur apparition en vol chaloup\u00e9 sur les phragmites. Un faucon ind\u00e9termin\u00e9 passe en fl\u00e8che au ras du champ. Il ressemble \u00e0 un hobereau juv\u00e9nile mais pas tout \u00e0 fait. Peut-\u00eatre un jeune Kobez si \u00e7a se trouve. Il va falloir \u00eatre plus alerte et travailler les crit\u00e8res d\u2019identification&nbsp;! Un photographe en tenue de camouflage se dirige vers le plan d\u2019eau o\u00f9 ont atterri des dizaines de B\u00e9cassines des marais. Il installe son aff\u00fbt plus loin, \u00e0 la limite de la vase.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290503-b.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4724\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290503-b.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290503-b-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290503-b-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290503-b-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290503-b-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>L\u2019humidit\u00e9 arrive subitement. On prend le repas \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur de la tente et nous endormons avec des meuglements \u00e9tranges qu&rsquo;on prenait pour ceux de vaches. C\u2019est le brame de plusieurs cerfs dans le lointain\u2026 Quel jour sommes-nous d\u00e9j\u00e0&nbsp;? L\u2019\u00e9quinoxe d\u2019automne&nbsp;! Quelle merveilleuse fa\u00e7on de le c\u00e9l\u00e9brer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vendredi 23 Septembre. Aucune visite de sanglier cette nuit. Malgr\u00e9 cela, Gabriel n\u2019a pas dormi l\u2019esprit tranquille. Un nuage de vapeur flotte au-dessus du sol. L\u2019atmosph\u00e8re embrum\u00e9e est particuli\u00e8rement belle avec les premiers rayons du soleil qui font scintiller les toiles d\u2019araign\u00e9es tiss\u00e9es dans les herbes. Nous plions le camp rapidement dans l\u2019id\u00e9e de faire s\u00e9cher la tente plus tard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290522.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4729\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290522.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290522-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290522-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290522-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290522-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290519-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4728\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290519-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290519-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290519-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290519-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290519-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290543-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4732\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290543-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290543-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290543-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290543-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290543-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290539.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4731\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290539.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290539-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290539-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290539-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290539-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Etourneaux sansonnets<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Marine fait un dernier tour sur la digue de sable et revient un quart d\u2019heure plus tard en courant. \u00abIl y a des Panures \u00e0 moustaches, il faut retourner les voir, elles sont pos\u00e9es l\u00e0-bas!&nbsp;\u00bb<br>Nous posons les v\u00e9los charg\u00e9s sur leur nouvelle b\u00e9quille (un b\u00e2ton de randonn\u00e9e achet\u00e9 en arrivant en Pologne) et repartons en leur direction pour essayer de les photographier.<br>C\u2019est un des oiseaux les plus captivants des roseli\u00e8res. La t\u00e2che noire s\u2019\u00e9talant sous chaque \u0153il des m\u00e2les lui a donn\u00e9 son nom : Panure \u00e0 moustaches. Aux jumelles, on distingue le regard per\u00e7ant de ces oiseaux aux yeux clairs. Nous en avions cherch\u00e9 dans les roseli\u00e8res au Danemark d\u00e9but Avril, sans succ\u00e8s. On s\u2019est satisfaits des sp\u00e9cimens empaill\u00e9s de plusieurs centres. Le reste de notre itin\u00e9raire en Su\u00e8de contournait sa zone de r\u00e9partition, si bien qu\u2019il a fallu attendre jusqu\u2019ici pour en voir. Devant nous, elles s\u2019envolent ensemble.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290557-b.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4734\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290557-b.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290557-b-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290557-b-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290557-b-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290557-b-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Panure \u00e0 moustache<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Pour ce premier repas de la journ\u00e9e, nous d\u00e9gustons la confiture d\u2019\u00e9glantier sauvage que Kuniko nous a offerte en partant de Falsterbo, un d\u00e9lice&nbsp;! On y associe ce qu\u2019on prenait pour du fromage blanc la veille et qui s\u2019av\u00e8re \u00eatre des micro boules d&rsquo;un genre de mozzarelle noy\u00e9es dans du petit lait saum\u00e2tre. On est un peu d\u00e9\u00e7us, mais cela fait partie du d\u00e9paysement de ne rien comprendre, dans cette langue pleine de \u00ab&nbsp;z&nbsp;\u00bb, et de consonnes par triplettes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La tente s\u00e8che sur les arceaux v\u00e9los et forme une silhouette imposante qui inqui\u00e8te le petit chien de la place. Il rase les bordures du trottoir, t\u00eate basse. Le d\u00e9cor a bien chang\u00e9 par rapport \u00e0 la Scandinavie. Les fa\u00e7ades sont parfois si peu entretenues, que les enduits ciment gris l\u00e9zard\u00e9s laissent appara\u00eetre un patchwork d&rsquo;\u00e9l\u00e9ments de construction : des briques, des agglom\u00e9r\u00e9 de b\u00e9ton, du bois\u2026 Ici les carcasses de vieilles voitures stationnent dans chaque jardin pour une dur\u00e9e ind\u00e9termin\u00e9e au beau milieu des poules et des potagers vivriers. Puis, un peu plus loin, comme sorti de nulle part, parachut\u00e9 entre deux champs de p\u00e2ture, un lotissement impeccable de maisons blanches align\u00e9es, les toits en tuiles aussi noirs que le bitume frais de l\u2019all\u00e9e centrale. Quel contraste !<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290566.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4736\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290566.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290566-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290566-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290566-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290566-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">   <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290579-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4739\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290579-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290579-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290579-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290579-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290579-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous partons en direction de Lubiewo que l\u2019on atteint apr\u00e8s une longue piste foresti\u00e8re tout terrain. A la sortie, nous d\u00e9bouchons sur une voie rapide en travaux et l\u2019on se perd dans les \u00e9changeurs car le pont que l\u2019on devait prendre est d\u00e9construit. On s\u2019engage en direction de l\u2019autoroute avant de se raviser. Demi-tour en sens contraire sur l\u2019accottement et arr\u00eat salvateur dans une la station essence pour faire le point et d\u00e9jeuner. On s&rsquo;essaye \u00e0 une grosse tartine garnie d&rsquo;aubergines et de champignons avec du fromage grill\u00e9 sur le dessus, qu\u2019on engloutit en quelques secondes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Il est encore temps de raccrocher les wagons et prendre l\u2019itin\u00e9raire cyclable qui m\u00e8ne \u00e0 Wolin qui passe par les petites routes de campagne. Un camion am\u00e9nag\u00e9 s\u2019arr\u00eate \u00e0 notre hauteur. Son conducteur nous assure que la portion que l\u2019on s\u2019appr\u00eate \u00e0 parcourir est magnifique et il disait vrai. Les grands h\u00eatres de la for\u00eat de Wolin pourrait \u00eatre autant d\u2019esprits protecteurs, tout en r\u00e9v\u00e9rence de rameaux \u00e0 notre passage.<br>Nous d\u00e9passons le village o\u00f9 l\u2019odeur d\u2019une boulangerie est plus forte que tout en ce milieu d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi. \u00ab&nbsp;Fika&nbsp;?&nbsp;\u00bb Gabriel ressort avec des viennoiseries \u00e0 la cr\u00e8me, sans avoir vraiment choisi ce qu\u2019il voulait, faute de ma\u00eetriser le polonais. *il y avait pourtant de si beaux g\u00e2teaux vendus \u00e0 la part ! On d\u00e9guste nos brioches bourratives au terme de notre \u00e9tape, sur un des trois bancs de la petite plage que nous trouvons au cinquanti\u00e8me kilom\u00e8tre de la journ\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290584-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4740\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290584-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290584-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290584-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290584-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290584-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290610.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4743\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290610.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290610-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290610-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290610-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290610-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Derni\u00e8re nous un alignement de peupliers g\u00e9ants dessine le fond de notre sc\u00e8ne. La baie de zalew Szczecinski s\u2019\u00e9tend devant nous. Cette petite plage et prot\u00e9g\u00e9e de part et d&rsquo;autre par les roseli\u00e8res qui gagnent du terrain sur l&rsquo;eau et abritent de nombreux oiseaux.<br>Marine collecte du bois pour le r\u00e9chaud dans les fourches des peupliers, Gabriel fabrique des sangles avec de la chambre \u00e0 air pour am\u00e9liorer nos sacoches. Les Grues cendr\u00e9es passent, le soleil se couche.<br>Au moment de rentrer dans la tente, un couple de cyclistes appara\u00eet dans la l\u2019obscurit\u00e9. Ils nous proposent de partager une bi\u00e8re, alors on se laisse convaincre, c&rsquo;est la premi\u00e8re depuis bien longtemps. Il comptent se rendre \u00e0 Bornholm, une \u00eele danoise de la Baltique dont on a entendu parler plus tard avec les fuites de gazoducs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290618-b.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4744\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290618-b.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290618-b-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290618-b-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290618-b-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290618-b-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>H\u00e9ron cendr\u00e9<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290625.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4746\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290625.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290625-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290625-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290625-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290625-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Rougegorge familier<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290606.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4742\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290606.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290606-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290606-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290606-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290606-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Busard des roseaux<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Samedi 24 Septembre. Un renard nous surprend en ouvrant la tente, il a laiss\u00e9 ses traces sur la plage. Peut-\u00eatre venait il \u00e0 la chasse aux poules d\u2019eau&nbsp;?<br>Nous nous attardons \u00e0 ce lieu car ce matin c\u2019est un festival d\u2019observations&nbsp;! Des Martin p\u00eacheurs, des Grandes aigrettes, des dizaines de Panures \u00e0 moustache, une Rousserolle effarvatte, des Busards des roseaux\u2026<br>Le spectacle s&rsquo;amenuisant, on d\u00e9colle vers onze heures et entamons l\u2019itin\u00e9raire qui longe la rive de cet immense golfe de Szczecinski. La digue est \u00e9loign\u00e9e de l\u2019eau par une importante \u00e9paisseur de roseaux. \u00c0 gauche s\u2019\u00e9tendent des champs \u00e0 perte de vue ponctu\u00e9s d\u2019arbres morts et de troupeau de vaches trapues. Nous avons l&rsquo;impression que l\u2019espace s&rsquo;est dilat\u00e9. Toutes les dimensions sont multipli\u00e9es. M\u00eame les champignons sont g\u00e9ants&nbsp;(on a vu une vesse de loup de la taille d\u2019un ballon)&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290660.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4749\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290660.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290660-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290660-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290660-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290660-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00c0 Kopice, sur le petit port du bac qui fait traverser en \u00e9t\u00e9 les cyclistes de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 du fleuve, nous d\u00e9jeunons sur une table en bois proche de la d\u00e9composition. Ce petit port para\u00eet bien pauvre, fait de buses en b\u00e9ton, pos\u00e9es sur le fond et s&rsquo;enfon\u00e7ant irr\u00e9guli\u00e8rement dans la vase, il n&rsquo;y a pas un bateau qui s&rsquo;y soit amarr\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290671-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4754\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290671-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290671-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290671-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290671-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290671-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290669.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4752\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290669.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290669-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290669-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290669-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290669-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Les routes mettent \u00e0 rude \u00e9preuve nos v\u00e9los&nbsp;: gravillons, dalle de b\u00e9ton qui pianotent, pav\u00e9s, sable, terre\u2026 Ce n\u2019est pas mieux \u00e0 Stepnica o\u00f9 la rue principale est impraticable, en aussi mauvais \u00e9tat que les constructions. Nous y faisons un ravitaillement avant de repartir en pleine brousse. L\u2019heure tourne et l\u2019on ne trouve toujours rien de campable. \u00c0 droite les roseli\u00e8res, et \u00e0 gauche, en bas de la digue, des champs d\u00e9tremp\u00e9s. L\u2019abri que nous avions rep\u00e9r\u00e9 sur la carte est dans un \u00e9tat pitoyable de salet\u00e9 et de d\u00e9labrement. On en tire la le\u00e7on qu\u2019il ne faudra pas compter sur ce qui est indiqu\u00e9 sur la carte. Nous passons en code rouge car la nuit arrive vite.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290674-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4756\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290674-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290674-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290674-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290674-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290674-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Pygargues \u00e0 queue blanche<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Les abords de l\u2019\u00e9cluse sont habit\u00e9s, dommage, allons plus loin vers cette parcelle derri\u00e8re un peuplier couch\u00e9. On se ravise car il est tapiss\u00e9 de vieux pneus ensevelis sous la v\u00e9g\u00e9tation avec un cr\u00e2ne de sanglier \u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e. Mais un peu plus loin, \u00e0 dix m\u00e8tres de la piste sur un champ bien sec. Rassur\u00e9s, on se r\u00e9partit les t\u00e2ches pour acc\u00e9l\u00e9rer l\u2019installation du camp&nbsp;: Gabriel s\u2019occupe du feu (dans notre r\u00e9chaud \u00e0 bois de sauvetage) et Marine de la tente. Aux voitures qui passent, nous adressons un salut amical qui nous est rendu. Quelques allers et venues de voitures rompent le silence de la nuit. C\u2019est la fin de semaine, les habitants vont s\u00fbrement boire un verre (ou plus) dans le bourg voisin.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290680.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4758\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290680.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290680-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290680-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290680-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290680-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290678.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4757\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290678.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290678-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290678-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290678-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290678-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220924_182543-2-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4850\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220924_182543-2-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220924_182543-2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220924_182543-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220924_182543-2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220924_182543-2.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Le matin d\u00e9marre tr\u00e8s mal avec deux kilom\u00e8tres \u00e0 suer dans un sable tr\u00e8s fin o\u00f9 les pneus s\u2019enfoncent, les champs sont pourtant bien verts de part et d\u2019autre. Nous devons pousser les v\u00e9los \u00e0 la force des bras qui s&rsquo;ensablent un peu plus \u00e0 chaque tour de roue. C\u2019est le soulagement quand on retrouve enfin l\u2019asphalte.<br>Dans la marina de Lubczyna la compagnie d\u2019un chat tricolore et tr\u00e8s c\u00e2lin nous invite \u00e0 s&rsquo;installer. Nous profitons ainsi de la vue des voiliers dont Gabriel analyse les car\u00e8nes et les gr\u00e9ements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220925_082331-2-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4848\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220925_082331-2-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220925_082331-2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220925_082331-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220925_082331-2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220925_082331-2.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290684-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4759\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290684-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290684-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290684-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290684-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290684-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290686.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4760\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290686.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290686-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290686-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290686-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290686-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Un peu plus tard dans la matin\u00e9e nous trouvons une station de lavage dont l\u2019apparence clinquante sonne faux dans ce village aux trottoirs accident\u00e9s et boueux. Op\u00e9ration nettoyage r\u00e9ussie: la cha\u00eene ne craque plus et les patins de frein ne font plus de bruit&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nos montures arrivent toutes propres au camping de Dabie, avant Szeczin o\u00f9 nous pr\u00e9voyons de faire une grande pause pour bien se reposer. Sans le savoir nous atterrissons dans le jardin de l\u2019auberge de jeunesse en pensant qu\u2019il s\u2019agissait du camping vis\u00e9. Le r\u00e9ceptionniste nous pr\u00e9vient qu\u2019il y a du passage de sangliers le soir sous les pommiers mais nous sommes tellement contents d&rsquo;avoir trouv\u00e9 ce lieu qu\u2019on plante la tente avec h\u00e2te derri\u00e8re le b\u00e2timent. On \u00e9vite les arbres, au vu du nombre d\u2019\u00e9tourneaux perch\u00e9s. Nous pouvons voir la tente depuis la petite cuisine qui deviendra rapidement notre quartier g\u00e9n\u00e9ral. Un autre bon point, cette auberge de jeunesse et situ\u00e9 dans une marina, il y a des bateaux de tous les c\u00f4t\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_101204-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4698\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_101204-rotated.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_101204-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_101204-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_101204-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_101204-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_101204-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous y passons cinq nuits cons\u00e9cutives pour nous remettre de ce long \u00e9pisode scandinave de cinq mois, et faire d\u00e9canter les souvenirs. Nous savons d\u00e9j\u00e0 que nous y ferons une seconde migration et l\u2019on plaisante en disant qu\u2019on a \u00ab&nbsp;juste fait du rep\u00e9rage&nbsp;\u00bb jusque-l\u00e0.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220930_110133-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4697\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220930_110133-rotated.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220930_110133-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220930_110133-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220930_110133-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220930_110133-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220930_110133-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220930_171145.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4791\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220930_171145.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220930_171145-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220930_171145-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220930_171145-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20220930_171145-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Samedi 1 octobre. Finies les grasses matin\u00e9es, ce matin nous nous levons \u00e0 7h30. Nous sommes contents de reprendre la route. L&rsquo;entr\u00e9e dans la ville de Sczecin est assez fastidieuse. Au beau milieu des \u00e9changeurs routiers le trac\u00e9 cyclable est assez difficile \u00e0 suivre. Du c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la mer nous traversons une \u00e9norme zone industrielle et portuaire. De longs et hauts hangars d\u00e9labr\u00e9s fait de briques us\u00e9es t\u00e9moignent d&rsquo;une grande activit\u00e9 pass\u00e9e. Puis vient la ville, grouillante, bruyante. \u00c7a sent le m\u00e9tal, la chaux, le b\u00e9ton frais, le diesel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290688.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4629\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290688.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290688-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290688-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290688-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290688-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290690.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4630\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290690.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290690-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290690-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290690-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290690-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Comme si rien n\u2019\u00e9chappait \u00e0 cette fatalit\u00e9, la ville s\u2019\u00e9tend maintenant sur une p\u00e9riph\u00e9rie triste de plateformes logistiques et commerciales. Ici sont concentr\u00e9es toutes les enseignes de la grande distribution allemande et fran\u00e7aise. On comprend ici la notion \u00ab&nbsp;d\u2019Europe \u00e9conomique&nbsp;\u00bb, l\u2019Europe du fric pour le dire plus clairement. La vision d\u2019un \u00e9norme complexe D\u00e9cathlon et Leroy Merlin nous attriste&nbsp;: les b\u00e2timents semblent encore entour\u00e9s de la poussi\u00e8re de leur atterrissage brutal au milieu des champs labour\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Notre itin\u00e9raire cyclable ne tarde pas \u00e0 passer en Allemagne. Quel contraste au niveau des pistes&nbsp;: c&rsquo;est le luxe&nbsp;! Le rev\u00eatement est impeccable, roulant. Nos v\u00e9los filent \u00e0 travers la campagne et si le vent et la pluie n&rsquo;\u00e9taient pas contre nous, ce serait parfait. Apr\u00e8s une pause sous un petit abri dispos\u00e9 le long de l&rsquo;itin\u00e9raire le temps se d\u00e9grade. Du fond de nos sacoches nous ressortons nos v\u00eatements de pluie. \u00c7a nous rappelle la Norv\u00e8ge, tiens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_144153-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4702\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_144153-rotated.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_144153-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_144153-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_144153-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_144153-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221001_144153-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous rejoignons le cours du fleuve Oder en traversant de tr\u00e8s belles for\u00eats qui s&rsquo;habillent des tons automnaux. Les feuilles rousses jonchent l&rsquo;asphalte noir et brillante d&rsquo;eau, les marrons tomb\u00e9s des arbres craquent sous nos pneus. L&rsquo;apr\u00e8s-midi est tr\u00e8s humide mais la beaut\u00e9 des paysages de la r\u00e9serve naturelle de l\u2019Oder nous enthousiasme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290694-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4631\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290694-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290694-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290694-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290694-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290694-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous commen\u00e7ons \u00e0 avoir froid et nous rendons compte que la pluie a fini par traverser nos v\u00eatements&nbsp;: ils ne sont plus aussi \u00e9tanches qu&rsquo;\u00e0 leurs d\u00e9buts. Les tissus d\u00e9color\u00e9s de nos vestes t\u00e9moignent de leur usure, la toile est br\u00fbl\u00e9e. Fatigu\u00e9s d&rsquo;avoir lutt\u00e9 contre les \u00e9l\u00e9ments, nous nous offrirons une douche chaude et un camping pour la nuit \u00e0 Schzedt. Mais avant cela, une chose importante reste \u00e0 faire. Notre parcours du jour vise un magasin que Marine \u00e0 pris soin de s\u00e9lectionner pour y trouver de l&rsquo;essence raffin\u00e9e pour notre nouveau r\u00e9chaud re\u00e7u \u00e0 l&rsquo;auberge de jeunesse quelques jours plus t\u00f4t. Dommage, les portes de la grande surface sont exceptionnellement ferm\u00e9es pendant le long weekend f\u00e9ri\u00e9 c\u00e9l\u00e9brant la r\u00e9unification Allemande.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dimanche 2 octobre<br>La r\u00e9serve naturelle que nous longeons est grandiose dans la lumi\u00e8re du matin. Les nuages sombres laissent passer quelques beaux rayons de soleil qui mettent en valeur telle ou telle partie de ce vaste paysage o\u00f9 s\u2019\u00e9tend le lit du fleuve. Des groupes d&rsquo;oies se r\u00e9veillent parmi les bottes de foin aupr\u00e8s desquelles elles ont probablement pass\u00e9 la nuit. Les grues s&rsquo;\u00e9lancent dans des ascensions vertigineuses pour rejoindre les hauteurs qui leur permettront de planer sur des kilom\u00e8tres. Pour une fois, nos v\u00e9los filent bon vent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290714.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4635\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290714.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290714-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290714-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290714-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290714-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290704.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4634\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290704.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290704-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290704-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290704-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290704-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290701b.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4633\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290701b.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290701b-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290701b-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290701b-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290701b-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><br>De l&rsquo;autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de ce fleuve tortueux, c&rsquo;est la Pologne. Nous nous en \u00e9cartons pour passer \u00e0 la maison du parc, \u00e0 Criew et y obtenir quelques informations sur la r\u00e9serve. Nous butinons les prospectus sur la faune et la flore pour repartir ensuite vers le lit du fleuve. On profite de la pause de midi, sur un banc et abrit\u00e9 du vent pour s&rsquo;ex\u00e9cuter \u00e0 un petit entretien de la transmission de nos v\u00e9los. Marine gratte son d\u00e9railleur avec une petite touillette \u00e0 caf\u00e9, qu\u2019on ne manque pas de r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer dans les stations service (des grandes touillettes pour atteindre les galets de d\u00e9railleurs). On frotte nos cha\u00eenes avec cette grosse brosse m\u00e9tallique trouv\u00e9e dans le foss\u00e9 d&rsquo;une route Norv\u00e9gienne. On huile le tout, et c\u2019est reparti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221002_150147.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4793\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221002_150147.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221002_150147-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221002_150147-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221002_150147-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221002_150147-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290724-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4636\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290724-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290724-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290724-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290724-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290724-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290726.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4637\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290726.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290726-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290726-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290726-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290726-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290736.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4638\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290736.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290736-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290736-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290736-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290736-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Le bivouac de ce soir est choisi strat\u00e9giquement par Marine qui a rep\u00e9r\u00e9 un dortoir de grues et d&rsquo;oies aux jumelles. C&rsquo;est un spectacle incroyable que de monter la tente et s\u2019endormir avec ces groupes de grands oiseaux qui vont et viennent. Petit b\u00e9mol&nbsp;: un panneau sur la cl\u00f4ture attenante alerte sur des cas de peste porcine africaine d\u00e9tect\u00e9s dans le p\u00e9rim\u00e8tre, de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 du portail. Pas de cadavre dans notre secteur, on hausse les \u00e9paules et terminons d\u2019installer le camp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290739.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4639\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290739.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290739-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290739-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290739-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290739-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290740b.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4640\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290740b.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290740b-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290740b-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290740b-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290740b-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290810.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4646\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290810.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290810-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290810-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290810-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290810-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290815.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4647\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290815.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290815-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290815-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290815-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290815-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous sommes en contrebas de la piste cyclable, qui est de temps en temps utilis\u00e9e par les riverains en voiture. T\u00f4t ce matin, nous en entendons arriver se garer pr\u00e8s du portail. Les portes claquent. Quelques cliquetis. Des voix d\u2019hommes qui ouvrent le portail (ils vont droit dans le territoire de la peste porcine!). Quelques minutes plus tard nous entendons retentir deux coups de feu. Il reviennent \u00e0 peine trente minutes plus tard, on les imagine charger quelque chose dans leur v\u00e9hicule, le moteur red\u00e9marre et le bruit s\u2019\u00e9loigne. C\u2019\u00e9tait donc les cliquetis des fusils que nous n\u2019identifions pas tout \u00e0 l\u2019heure\u2026<br>Pour nous qui sommes venus go\u00fbter au calme des rives du fleuve pour observer les milliers de grues et d\u2019oies qui trouvent refuge ici, cela nous laisse un go\u00fbt amer\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290794.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4644\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290794.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290794-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290794-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290794-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290794-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Grues cendr\u00e9es : deux adultes et un jeune<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221002_180902-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4703\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221002_180902-rotated.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221002_180902-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221002_180902-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221002_180902-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221002_180902-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221002_180902-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous avons le vent dans le dos jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Kostrzyn nad Odra, la jumelle polonaise de K\u00fcstrin. C\u2019est ici que nous basculons d\u00e9finitivement en Pologne pour les prochains jours. Nous rejoignons l\u2019embouchure de la rivi\u00e8re Warta, une des plus vastes zones humides d\u2019Europe, un des parcs nationaux polonais que nous tenons \u00e0 explorer. Apr\u00e8s un ravitaillement une fois la fronti\u00e8re franchie, nous prenons la direction de la maison du Parc national pour obtenir des informations sur les secteurs \u00e0 privil\u00e9gier en v\u00e9lo et pour les oiseaux. Nous sommes accueillis dans le bureau par une femme de l\u2019\u00e2ge de Marine, la trentaine, en uniforme beige avec l\u2019\u00e9cusson du Parc&nbsp;: une Oie des moissons. Visage jovial, chevelure blonde, les yeux clairs, elle parle bien anglais et nous indique sur la carte simplifi\u00e9e du parc les secteurs les plus int\u00e9ressants du point de vue ornithologique. Elle nous rassure sur le niveau d\u2019eau&nbsp;: il est si bas que nous pouvons emprunter les chemins \u00e0 v\u00e9lo sans probl\u00e8me.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>En suivant les conseils de la garde du parc, nous prenons la direction de S\u0142o\u0144sk, \u00e0 une dizaine de kilom\u00e8tres, par une route tr\u00e8s fr\u00e9quent\u00e9e le long d\u2019un canal. On coupe en deux ce tron\u00e7on en faisant halte \u00e0 un observatoire au pied duquel nous trouvons deux Vanneaux hupp\u00e9s g\u00e9ants. Marine grimpe jusqu\u2019en haut pour admirer la vue. Aussi loin que les yeux peuvent voir, aucune construction. Des grands espaces comme on en r\u00eavait. Plus que quelques kilom\u00e8tres et nous atteignons S\u0142o\u0144sk, o\u00f9 la premi\u00e8re chose \u00e0 faire est de trouver un endroit pour la nuit. Pas question de faire un bivouac, c\u2019est interdit dans le p\u00e9rim\u00e8tre du parc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221003_144512-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4704\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221003_144512-rotated.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221003_144512-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221003_144512-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221003_144512-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221003_144512-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221003_144512-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Vanneaux hupp\u00e9s<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous demandons \u00e0 la g\u00e9rante du g\u00eete nature pr\u00e8s de l\u2019ancienne station de pompage si un bout de son jardin serait n\u00e9gociable. Nous encaissons un refus poli dans son bureau encombr\u00e9 d\u2019oiseaux empaill\u00e9s, de mat\u00e9riel d\u2019observation et de livres naturalistes. Elle appelle gentiment pour nous la ferme de Przybor\u00f3w dont nous avait parl\u00e9 la garde, une \u00ab&nbsp;agroturystyka&nbsp;\u00bb (g\u00eete \u00e0 la ferme) qui nous confirme que nous aurons de quoi camper ainsi qu\u2019un acc\u00e8s \u00e0 une salle de bains pour quelques zlotys. Pour nous y rendre, nous prenons le chemin de terre du Nord du village, c\u2019est l\u00e0 que nous tombons sur des groupes d\u2019oies qui d\u00e9collent devant nous, perturb\u00e9es par une voiture passant en plein milieu des champs humides.<br>Pass\u00e9 le portail, un homme en pantoufles us\u00e9es, courb\u00e9 par l\u2019\u00e2ge nous fait signe d\u2019avancer dans la cour. Il nous montre le jardin en mimant des deux mains le toit d\u2019une tente \u00ab&nbsp;namiot&nbsp;\u00bb, puis nous montre une des portes du b\u00e2timent en mimant la douche \u00ab&nbsp;prysznic&nbsp;\u00bb. Comme chaque soir, les oies et les grues d\u00e9filent au-dessus de notre tente. On distingue maintenant assez bien les cris des Oies cendr\u00e9es appuy\u00e9 et nasillard, de celui des Oies rieuses, plus fluet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290844-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4651\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290844-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290844-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290844-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290844-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290844-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290855.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4653\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290855.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290855-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290855-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290855-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290855-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290879.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4654\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290879.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290879-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290879-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290879-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290879-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Oies cendr\u00e9es<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290851b.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4652\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290851b.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290851b-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290851b-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290851b-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290851b-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Oies rieuses<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290895-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4656\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290895-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290895-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290895-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290895-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290895-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290890.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4655\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290890.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290890-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290890-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290890-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290890-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Le lendemain, personne dans la ferme. Nous glissons les cinquante zlotys et une carte de remerciement dans la boite aux lettres. Un dernier c\u00e2lin aux petits chats, et nous partons en direction de la r\u00e9serve, \u00e0 quelques centaines de m\u00e8tres du jardin o\u00f9 nous avons pass\u00e9 la nuit.<br>Les grandes \u00e9tendues de prairies humides invitent \u00e0 prendre de grandes inspirations. On pose les v\u00e9los pour mieux observer autour de nous. Les chevaux et les vaches p\u00e2turent, des dizaines de Canards siffleurs sont rassembl\u00e9s sur les talus boueux d\u2019un mince cours d\u2019eau. Les oies sont plus difficiles \u00e0 voir, il faudrait se rapprocher encore jusqu\u2019au prochain observatoire. C\u2019est d\u2019ailleurs la fin du parcours, car vu l\u2019\u00e9tat du pont, on ne peut vraisemblablement pas prolonger la visite. Marine pointe la longue vue sur les oies. Un groupe d\u00e9colle \u00e0 l\u2019arri\u00e8re-plan&nbsp;: le pygargue n\u2019est pas loin en effet. Deux coll\u00e8gues suppl\u00e9mentaires cerclent plus haut, attendant la prochaine occasion de fondre sur le tas. Il y a m\u00eame quelques Bernaches nonnettes dedans !<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290902-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4658\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290902-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290902-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290902-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290902-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290902-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290908.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4659\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290908.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290908-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290908-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290908-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290908-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290916.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4660\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290916.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290916-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290916-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290916-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290916-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Cygne tubercul\u00e9<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290939.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4663\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290939.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290939-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290939-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290939-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290939-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Une voiture se rapproche de nous, \u00e7a ne peut \u00eatre que celle des gardes du parc car aucun autre v\u00e9hicule n\u2019est sens\u00e9 circuler ici. Nous voyons descendre deux femmes, et reconnaissons imm\u00e9diatement celle que nous avons rencontr\u00e9e hier. \u00ab&nbsp;Ne vous avais-je pas dit que c\u2019\u00e9tait le meilleur endroit pour les oiseaux&nbsp;?&nbsp;\u00bb nous demande-t-elle en guise de salutations. Elles sortent \u00e0 leur tour les longues-vues tout en discutant. \u00ab&nbsp;J\u2019ai repens\u00e9 \u00e0 votre extraordinaire aventure en v\u00e9lo quand vous avez quitt\u00e9 la maison du Parc, vous avez d\u00fb voir tant de choses!&nbsp;\u00bb. Au fait, moi c\u2019est Olga dit-elle en nous tendant la main. Sa coll\u00e8gue -dont nous avons malheureusement oubli\u00e9 le pr\u00e9nom dans les pr\u00e9sentations, est moins bavarde, mais tr\u00e8s souriante. Peut-\u00eatre ma\u00eetrise-t-elle moins bien l\u2019anglais. Elles sont ici en rep\u00e9rage pour accompagner un groupe d\u2019\u00e9l\u00e8ves en sortie scolaire dans les jours qui viennent. \u00ab&nbsp;Vous avez de la chance, normalement, \u00e0 cette heure de la journ\u00e9e, les oies sont plut\u00f4t dispers\u00e9es ailleurs. C\u2019est comme si elles \u00e9taient rest\u00e9es l\u00e0 pour vous&nbsp;\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290952.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4666\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290952.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290952-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290952-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290952-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290952-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Marine a rep\u00e9r\u00e9 une oie bagu\u00e9e, avec un collier autour du cou, mais peine \u00e0 d\u00e9chiffrer ce qui est inscrit dessus. Olga pivote sa longue-vue et l\u2019invite \u00e0 mettre l\u2019\u0153il dedans. La qualit\u00e9 est bien meilleure, on peut lire distinctement&nbsp;le code&nbsp;! Il est temps pour elles de repartir et nous laissent avec les oies de la Warta. Nous tournons les talons \u00e0 notre tour pour faire une pause pique-nique dans le kiosque de l\u2019entr\u00e9e de la r\u00e9serve.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Un homme se gare \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9, jumelles autour du cou, casquette sur un cr\u00e2ne d\u00e9garni. Dans un m\u00e9lange d\u2019allemand, d\u2019anglais et de polonais il nous apprend que l\u2019eau n\u2019a jamais autant manqu\u00e9 que cette ann\u00e9e. Il nous montre une graduation que nous n\u2019avions pas remarqu\u00e9e sur les poteaux de l\u2019abri&nbsp;: l\u2019eau peut monter jusqu\u2019\u00e0 4 m\u00e8tres au-dessus du sol sur lequel nous nous trouvons&nbsp;! Son visage s\u2019assombrit et il secoue la t\u00eate. \u00ab&nbsp;Klimat kaput, Katastrophe&nbsp;\u2026&nbsp;Vingt ans que je viens ici, chaque ann\u00e9e est pire&nbsp;\u00bb. Il nous parle de l\u2019Est de la Pologne, plus sauvage et qu\u2019il conna\u00eet tr\u00e8s bien, nous montre quelques photos d\u2019oiseaux sur l\u2019\u00e9cran de son appareil photo, compare nos jumelles aux siennes, puis reprend le volant de sa voiture en nous faisant signe par la porti\u00e8re.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290969-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4669\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290969-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290969-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290969-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290969-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290969.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous repartons peu apr\u00e8s, cap au Sud, l\u00e9g\u00e8rement Sud-Est. Nous avons trac\u00e9 sur la carte une grande ligne droite jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Bratislava, en passant par quelques r\u00e9serves naturelles d\u2019Europe centrale. Nous quittons S\u0142o\u0144sk en passant par les villages de Chart\u00f3w et Gron\u00f3w, par de petites routes de campagne peu fr\u00e9quent\u00e9es.<br>Nous roulons dans les for\u00eats du Sud de Osno Lubuskie o\u00f9 il n\u2019est pas rare de voir des promeneurs, seau \u00e0 la main, ramassant des champignons. La cueillette est apparemment plus qu\u2019un loisir&nbsp;: au vu des quantit\u00e9s collect\u00e9es, il s\u2019agirait bien d\u2019un petit commerce. Cela nous rassure qu\u2019il y ait autant de monde dans la for\u00eat&nbsp;: on ne craint pas les chasseurs par ici. D\u2019ailleurs, personne ne porte de gilet fluo. C\u2019est donc en toute s\u00e9r\u00e9nit\u00e9 que nous d\u00e9cidons de bivouaquer en for\u00eat \u00e0 l\u2019occasion d\u2019une piste qui part droit dans l\u2019\u00e9paisseur bois\u00e9e, juste apr\u00e8s la ville de Rzepin (car toutes les aires de repos rep\u00e9r\u00e9es auparavant s\u2019av\u00e8rent interdites au bivouac).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Gabriel prend la t\u00eate du convoi. Quand il s\u2019agit de trouver le meilleur coin o\u00f9 s\u2019installer, on peut compter sur lui&nbsp;! Son flair d\u00e9tecte non seulement les odeurs des animaux, vivants ou morts, mais aussi la qualit\u00e9 de l\u2019humus figurez-vous&nbsp;! Marine le laisse toujours implanter la tente, car il sait mieux \u00e9valuer la d\u00e9clivit\u00e9 du terrain ou juger de l\u2019orientation solaire. \u00ab&nbsp;Pas de trace de sanglier, parfait&nbsp;! On met la t\u00eate ici et les pieds l\u00e0 ?&nbsp;\u00bb. Nous sommes au pied d\u2019un vieux pin dont la base du tronc s\u2019agenouille devant notre campement. En levant la t\u00eate jusqu\u2019\u00e0 sa cime, on voit les derniers rayons du soleil teinter les nuages de jaune puis de rose. Ils forment un motif de papier peint floral r\u00e9gulier et d\u00e9filent doucement comme sur ces lampes de chambre d\u2019enfant. On ne sait plus si ce sont eux ou nous qui sommes en mouvement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290975-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4670\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290975-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290975-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290975-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290975-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1290975-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>5 Octobre. Nous retrouvons l\u2019Odra \u00e0 Krosno Odrzanskie au terme d\u2019une demi-journ\u00e9e de lignes droites \u00e0 travers les bois sur des routes peu passionnantes et ponctu\u00e9es d\u2019autels aux d\u00e9funts morts sur la route. Une simple croix sur un socle o\u00f9 brille un lampion. Sur la premi\u00e8re partie de la journ\u00e9e, il y en avait tout les cent m\u00e8tres, de quoi vous faire frissonner l\u2019\u00e9chine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le seul banc que nous trouvons pour d\u00e9jeuner est \u00e0 moiti\u00e9 moisi, au pied d\u2019un crucifix terrifiant devant un cimeti\u00e8re autrefois allemand, si l\u2019on en croit les inscriptions en lettres gothiques de la st\u00e8le d\u2019entr\u00e9e. Ambiance mortif\u00e8re aujourd\u2019hui\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221005_104732-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4705\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221005_104732-rotated.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221005_104732-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221005_104732-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221005_104732-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221005_104732-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221005_104732-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Encore un Biedronka (coccinelle en polonais) pour le ravitaillement<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221005_153841-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4795\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221005_153841-rotated.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221005_153841-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221005_153841-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221005_153841-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Les fameuses dalles de b\u00e9ton qui secouent<\/em> \u00e0 chaque joint<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous trouvons le bivouac du soir au bord d\u2019un \u00e9tang de la r\u00e9serve naturelle de Plawie. Gabriel allume le r\u00e9chaud avec du bois pas tr\u00e8s sec qui enfume toute la zone. Marine est pr\u00e9occup\u00e9e&nbsp;: avec tous les panneaux d\u2019alertes aux feux de for\u00eat, il ne faudrait pas que ces nuages de fum\u00e9e soient mal interpr\u00e9t\u00e9s. L\u2019eau bout en quelques minutes, le thermos est rempli et pr\u00eat pour le d\u00eener. La petite plage est parsem\u00e9e de traces d\u2019animaux. On reconna\u00eet celles du Castor d\u2019Europe qui de toute \u00e9vidence s\u00e9vit ici d\u2019apr\u00e8s les troncs de bouleaux fra\u00eechement rong\u00e9s. \u00c0 18h45 pr\u00e9cises, un filet dor\u00e9 appara\u00eet sur la surface de l\u2019\u00e9tang au soleil couchant. Ce n\u2019est pas un canard mais bien la t\u00eate anguleuse d\u2019un castor qui rejoint la roseli\u00e8re de la rive oppos\u00e9e. Un deuxi\u00e8me nage derri\u00e8re lui, laissant \u00e0 Gabriel le temps de s\u2019approcher discr\u00e8tement derri\u00e8re un tronc et de d\u00e9clencher l\u2019appareil photo. Maintenant on sait o\u00f9 se trouve leur cachette&nbsp;! En quelques tintements de gamelles en inox et bruit de fermetures \u00e9clair, nous sommes pr\u00eats nous aussi pour rejoindre la n\u00f4tre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310023241_169790149041249_7871371280247017336_n.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4825\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310023241_169790149041249_7871371280247017336_n.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310023241_169790149041249_7871371280247017336_n-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310023241_169790149041249_7871371280247017336_n-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310023241_169790149041249_7871371280247017336_n-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310023241_169790149041249_7871371280247017336_n-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310306117_169790159041248_5890191496881159317_n.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4827\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310306117_169790159041248_5890191496881159317_n.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310306117_169790159041248_5890191496881159317_n-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310306117_169790159041248_5890191496881159317_n-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310306117_169790159041248_5890191496881159317_n-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310306117_169790159041248_5890191496881159317_n-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310661401_169790155707915_3066440450183095852_n.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4826\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310661401_169790155707915_3066440450183095852_n.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310661401_169790155707915_3066440450183095852_n-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310661401_169790155707915_3066440450183095852_n-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310661401_169790155707915_3066440450183095852_n-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310661401_169790155707915_3066440450183095852_n-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310152592_169790152374582_8869731629898985757_n.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4828\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310152592_169790152374582_8869731629898985757_n.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310152592_169790152374582_8869731629898985757_n-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310152592_169790152374582_8869731629898985757_n-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310152592_169790152374582_8869731629898985757_n-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/310152592_169790152374582_8869731629898985757_n-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/309882405_169790145707916_4451976097868463021_n.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4824\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/309882405_169790145707916_4451976097868463021_n.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/309882405_169790145707916_4451976097868463021_n-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/309882405_169790145707916_4451976097868463021_n-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/309882405_169790145707916_4451976097868463021_n-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/309882405_169790145707916_4451976097868463021_n-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Castor d&rsquo;Europe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>6 Octobre. Les Pinsons du Nord et les Grives draines s\u2019animent dans les pins au-dessus de nous pendant que nous plions le camp. Nous saluons des p\u00eacheurs matinaux, pas si loin de la hutte des castors avant de rejoindre la route principale. Elle longe plus ou moins le cours de la rivi\u00e8re B\u00f3br, en passant par Nowogrod B\u00f3brzanski puis bifurquons \u00e0 Zag\u00e1n sur la rivi\u00e8re Kwisa. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La journ\u00e9e se termine \u00e0 Lawszowa dans une plantation mixte de jeunes pins et de bouleaux, qui fait probablement suite \u00e0 une coupe rase r\u00e9cente. Nous utilisons pour la premi\u00e8re fois le nouveau r\u00e9chaud \u00e0 essence car nous avons trouv\u00e9 le bon liquide dans une station service&nbsp;: une essence raffin\u00e9e qui n\u2019encrasse pas la partie du carburateur, ce qui a d\u00e9t\u00e9rior\u00e9 notre pr\u00e9c\u00e9dent r\u00e9chaud \u00e0 force d\u2019utiliser du Super sans plomb. D\u00e9sormais, on prend le repas du soir \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur de la tente, parfois \u00e0 la frontale selon l\u2019heure. Bruits de sabots de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 du chemin. Peut-\u00eatre une biche ou un cerf dont on a vu des traces dans la boue. La nuit tombe. L\u2019archer Orion tire ses fl\u00e8ches dans un ciel d\u2019encre qui p\u00e9tille d\u2019\u00e9toiles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221006_175248-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4798\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221006_175248-rotated.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221006_175248-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221006_175248-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221006_175248-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>7 Octobre. On se r\u00e9chauffe sur les marches du \u00ab&nbsp;sentier du renard&nbsp;\u00bb \u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e du village, \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de sculptures d\u2019ours et de loup taill\u00e9es dans le bois brut. Les poules du jardin d\u2019\u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 se perchent dans les arbres. La voisine nous regarde d\u2019un air m\u00e9fiant. Ces deux cyclistes emmitoufl\u00e9s, assis par terre une tasse fumante \u00e0 la main ont l\u2019air louches\u2026 La journ\u00e9e se d\u00e9roule sans encombre si ce n\u2019est que le relief commence \u00e0 se soulever. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300063-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4679\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300063-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300063-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300063-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300063-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300063-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>On passe sur une passerelle \u00e9troite au niveau de Tomis\u0142aw apr\u00e8s laquelle nous sommes certains d\u2019\u00eatre encore moins d\u00e9rang\u00e9s par la circulation. Nous d\u00e9plorons les quantit\u00e9s de bouteilles d\u2019alcool dans les foss\u00e9s, quasiment tous les cinq m\u00e8tres, avec parfois une densit\u00e9 qui laisse \u00e0 penser que le lieu est fr\u00e9quent\u00e9 par la m\u00eame personne, jetant \u00e0 la h\u00e2te son stock avant de rentrer \u00e0 la maison. Ces m\u00eames flasques en verre d\u2019eau de vie ou de vodka que l\u2019on trouve en t\u00eate de gondole aux caisses des supermarch\u00e9s, et que les clients glissent sur le tapis au dernier moment. Une petite recherche sur internet nous apprend que l\u2019expression \u00ab&nbsp;Saoul comme un Polonais&nbsp;\u00bb n\u2019a pas toujours \u00e9t\u00e9 p\u00e9jorative.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300059.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300059.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300059-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300059-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300059-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300059-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300065-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4680\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300065-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300065-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300065-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300065-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300065-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300081.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4683\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300081.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300081-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300081-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300081-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300081-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous rejoignons \u00e0 nouveau la B\u00f3br au niveau du village de Brun\u00f3w, o\u00f9 nous arrivons bien fatigu\u00e9s dans une ferme qui ouvre son terrain aux campeurs. Install\u00e9e sur un canal de d\u00e9rivation, cette \u00ab&nbsp;agroturystyka&nbsp;\u00bb \u00e9tait autrefois une ancienne manufacture li\u00e9e au travail du bois, propuls\u00e9e par le courant d\u2019une petite centrale hydro\u00e9lectrique. La propri\u00e9taire nous accueille \u00e0 moiti\u00e9 en allemand, \u00e0 moiti\u00e9 en polonais. On peut s\u2019installer o\u00f9 l\u2019on veut&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300072-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4681\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300072-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300072-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300072-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300072-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300072-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300056-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4677\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300056-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300056-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300056-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300056-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300056-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300051.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4676\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300051.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300051-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300051-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300051-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300051-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221007_131745-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4804\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221007_131745-1.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221007_131745-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221007_131745-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221007_131745-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221007_131745-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Salle polyvalente de Brze\u017anik<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221007_123247-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221007_123247-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221007_123247-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221007_123247-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221007_123247-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221007_123247.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300078-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4682\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300078-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300078-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300078-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300078-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300078-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300090.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4686\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300090.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300090-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300090-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300090-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300090-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Agroturystyka de Brun\u00f3w <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300089.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4685\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300089.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300089-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300089-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300089-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300089-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Moineau friquet<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300095.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4687\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300095.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300095-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300095-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300095-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300095-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>8 Octobre. Le paysage change radicalement&nbsp;: les montagnes de la fronti\u00e8re tch\u00e8que se rapprochent et on ne pourra pas y couper. On aurait pu s\u2019\u00e9pargner les pentes sup\u00e9rieures \u00e0 quatorze pourcent du village perch\u00e9 de Radomice mais le point de vue en valait la peine. Et puis on a pu refaire le plein de pommes sauvages dont regorgent les foss\u00e9s. Les sangliers doivent s\u2019en rouler par terre la nuit venue&nbsp;! Nous arrivons \u00e0 Jelenia G\u00f3ra, notre derni\u00e8re \u00e9tape polonaise, pour se ressourcer au camping avant d\u2019attaquer le col de Horn\u00ed Mal\u00e1 \u00dapa &#8230;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300121-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4692\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300121-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300121-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300121-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300121-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300121-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300123.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4693\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300123.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300123-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300123-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300123-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300123-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300124.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4694\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300124.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300124-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300124-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300124-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300124-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300110-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4689\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300110-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300110-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300110-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300110-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300110-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300116.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4691\" style=\"aspect-ratio:1\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300116.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300116-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300116-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300116-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300116-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300113.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4690\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300113.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300113-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300113-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300113-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1300113-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"715\" data-id=\"8633\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221004_105836-2-1024x715.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-8633\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221004_105836-2-1024x715.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221004_105836-2-300x209.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221004_105836-2-768x536.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221004_105836-2-1536x1072.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221004_105836-2.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"728\" data-id=\"8627\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221004_105925-1024x728.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-8627\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221004_105925-1024x728.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221004_105925-300x213.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221004_105925-768x546.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221004_105925-1536x1092.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221004_105925.jpg 1922w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Mercredi 21 Septembre. La nuit sur les si\u00e8ges raides du bateau \u00e0 \u00e9t\u00e9 difficile. A 5h30 retentit la premi\u00e8re annonce en polonais pour inviter les passagers \u00e0 venir rejoindre le restaurant. Tr\u00e8s vite nous arrivons au port de Swinoujscie et devons rejoindre nos v\u00e9los car nous d\u00e9barquons en premier. Apr\u00e8s quelques camions, c&rsquo;est notre tour. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4200","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4200","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4200"}],"version-history":[{"count":111,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4200\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8702,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4200\/revisions\/8702"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4200"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4200"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4200"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}