{"id":5012,"date":"2022-11-22T18:00:29","date_gmt":"2022-11-22T17:00:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/?p=5012"},"modified":"2024-07-30T19:48:30","modified_gmt":"2024-07-30T17:48:30","slug":"24-bratislava-trieste-km-9930-km-10500","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/?p=5012","title":{"rendered":"24 &#8211; Bratislava >Trieste (km 9930 &#8211; km 10500)"},"content":{"rendered":"<link rel='stylesheet' id='osm-ol3-css-css' href='https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/osm\/js\/OL\/10.9.0\/ol.css?ver=6.9.4' media='all' \/>\n<link rel='stylesheet' id='osm-ol3-ext-css-css' href='https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/osm\/css\/osm_map_v3.css?ver=6.9.4' media='all' \/>\n<link rel='stylesheet' id='osm-map-css-css' href='https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/osm\/css\/osm_map.css?ver=6.9.4' media='all' \/>\n<script 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km : <strong>Cap des 10 000 km en Hongrie<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/25 K\u0151szeg &#8211; R\u00f6n\u00f6k, 67 km : <strong>Dans une cabane de terre et de paille<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/26  R\u00f6n\u00f6k &#8211; Kra\u0161\u010di, 50 km : <strong>Arriv\u00e9e en Slov\u00e9nie<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/27  Kra\u0161\u010di &#8211; Ptuj, 56 km : <strong>Ptuj ville thermale <\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/28  Ptuj &#8211; Medvedece, 20 km : <strong>Le r\u00e9servoir <\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/29  Medvedece &#8211; Goricica, 49 km :  <strong>Rencontre avec Ingrid et Nicolas <\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/30  Goricica &#8211; Lukovica, 69 km : <strong>Bivouac \u00e0 l&rsquo;Allemande <\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/10\/31  Lukovica &#8211; Seno\u017ee\u010de, 76 km : <strong>Oies nocturnes <\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/11\/01  Seno\u017ee\u010de &#8211; Koper, 35 km : P<strong>erch\u00e9s dans une oliveraie <\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2022\/11\/02 Koper &#8211; Trieste 20 km : <strong>Saut dans le train pour Monfalcone <\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>21 Octobre. Bratislava aurait m\u00e9rit\u00e9 que l\u2019on s\u2019y arr\u00eate un peu&nbsp;: la ville a l\u2019air moderne, bien am\u00e9nag\u00e9e. Une grande zone pi\u00e9tonne pav\u00e9e nous m\u00e8ne tout droit dans un grand complexe commercial o\u00f9 l\u2019on essaie de faire changer la veste de Gabriel au D\u00e9cathlon. La fermeture \u00e9clair s\u2019est cass\u00e9e en quelques mois d\u2019utilisation intensive. Sans succ\u00e8s, faute de retrouver la preuve d\u2019achat. Gabriel est donc pour le moment contraint de l\u2019enfiler comme un pull. Apr\u00e8s cette contingence mat\u00e9rielle qui nous a fait perdre un peu de temps sur notre matin\u00e9e, nous tra\u00e7ons une grande ligne droite plein Sud \u00e0 travers la ville pour gagner la fronti\u00e8re autrichienne. Bratislava, ce sera pour une autre fois. Nous aurons tout le loisir de visiter les capitales europ\u00e9ennes quand nous serons vieux, retrait\u00e9s (si le principe existe encore dans quelques quinquennats), et que nos convictions pour voyager sans polluer se seront \u00e9tiol\u00e9es. Les cit\u00e9s que les hommes ont construites seront encore debout quand il n\u2019y aura plus d\u2019oiseaux dans le ciel&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310008.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5039\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310008.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310008-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310008-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310008-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310008-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Adieu les rives du Danube&nbsp;! Au programme, nous avons des champs de betteraves \u00e0 traverser, des hectares plant\u00e9s d\u2019\u00e9oliennes \u00e0 arpenter, du vent de face \u00e0 affronter&nbsp;; et enfin une derni\u00e8re c\u00f4te dans les vignes jaunes \u00e0 remonter, avant de d\u00e9couvrir la surface \u00e9tincelante du lac de Neusiedl. Nous abordons cet immense lac -le deuxi\u00e8me d\u2019Europe centrale apr\u00e8s le lac Balaton en Hongrie, par la rive Est, dont une grande partie est class\u00e9e en parc national. Les roseli\u00e8res bordant le lac sont si vastes que l\u2019on aper\u00e7oit l\u2019eau du lac uniquement en prenant de la hauteur depuis les observatoires qui ponctuent l\u2019itin\u00e9raire cyclable. Quelques busards Saint-Martin surgissent au-dessus des roseaux puis s\u2019envolent vers les prairies, les Tariers p\u00e2tres se perchent. Notre premi\u00e8re surprise est de voir des Corneilles noires parmi les Corneilles mantel\u00e9es. La noire est tr\u00e8s commune \u00e0 l\u2019Ouest de l\u2019Europe. Elle est remplac\u00e9e \u00e0 l\u2019Est et en Scandinavie par sa cousine au manteau gris. En jetant un \u0153il \u00e0 l\u2019aire de r\u00e9partition de ces deux esp\u00e8ces, nous r\u00e9alisons que nous nous trouvons exactement sur la limite. Cela faisait depuis le mois d\u2019Avril que l\u2019on n\u2019en voyait plus&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_104854-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5133\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_104854-rotated.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_104854-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_104854-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_104854-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310046.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5041\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310046.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310046-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310046-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310046-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310046-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_110418-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5134\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_110418-rotated.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_110418-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_110418-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_110418-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Il nous reste peu de temps avant la tomb\u00e9e du jour&nbsp;alors nous \u00e9courtons la pause dans le dernier observatoire pour filer au camping de Podersdorf. Hors de question de risquer une amende en Autriche pour un bivouac. L\u2019entr\u00e9e a des allures de vieux b\u00e2timent de douanes avec son porche d\u00e9mesur\u00e9. On comprend \u00e0 la dimension des parcs de stationnement et \u00e0 la capacit\u00e9 d\u2019accueil du camping que la fr\u00e9quentation estivale doit \u00eatre insupportable. En r\u00e9alit\u00e9, elle s\u2019amenuise. Pour cause&nbsp;: l\u2019ass\u00e8chement de ce lac peu profond, tr\u00e8s d\u00e9pendant des pr\u00e9cipitations, ne permet plus d\u2019activit\u00e9 de baignade ni de loisir nautique. Nous \u00e9tions pr\u00e9par\u00e9s psychologiquement au prix exhorbitant d\u2019un camping autrichien, mais pas au petit r\u00e9sidu de parcelle coinc\u00e9 entre la voie de desserte et la route communale, le plus \u00e9loign\u00e9 de la rive du lac. Les emplacements pour les tentes sont bien souvent des parcelles au rabais, la client\u00e8le \u00e0 privil\u00e9gier \u00e9tant celle logeant dans des mobil-homes, en caravane ou en camping-car. Le spectacle de tous ces emplacements artificialis\u00e9s est d\u00e9solant&nbsp;; les campings sont devenus de grands parkings\u2026 Qu\u2019importe la silver economy, qu\u2019importe les boomers en frigo, la meilleure nouvelle de la journ\u00e9e est que les douches sont chaudes et \u00e0 volont\u00e9&nbsp;! Un Hibou moyen-duc pousse son \u00ab&nbsp;hou&nbsp;\u00bb monotone dans la nuit, perch\u00e9 sur un des platanes avant de s\u2019\u00e9loigner dans la lumi\u00e8re orange des lampes \u00e0 sodium.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310017.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5040\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310017.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310017-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310017-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310017-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310017-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>22 Octobre. Nous avons re\u00e7u une r\u00e9ponse de Markus qui pourra nous accueillir chez lui au Sud du lac ce soir. Cela nous permet de pr\u00e9voir une journ\u00e9e compl\u00e8te dans le parc national sans avoir \u00e0 atteindre la fronti\u00e8re hongroise en h\u00e2te pour le bivouac du soir. Merci le r\u00e9seau Warmshowers&nbsp;! La pluie devrait arriver en d\u00e9but d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, il s\u2019agirait de se trouver \u00e0 l\u2019abri \u00e0 ce moment-l\u00e0. Nous progressons donc d&rsquo;observatoire en observatoire, \u00e0 la d\u00e9couverte des roseli\u00e8res et du biotope particulier du lac de Neusiedl. Bien qu\u2019\u00e9loign\u00e9es de la mer, les zones humides du Neusiedl sont alcalines, la salinit\u00e9 provenant de la p\u00e9riode o\u00f9 la zone \u00e9tait au fond de l\u2019oc\u00e9an. D\u00e8s le premier arr\u00eat, nous apercevons un groupement d\u2019Oies cendr\u00e9es et d\u2019Oies rieuses. Mais elles sont loin et l\u2019\u00e9paisseur de prairie qui nous s\u00e9pare d\u2019elles est interdite d\u2019entr\u00e9e par la signal\u00e9tique du parc national. Il y a pourtant quelques personnes en gilet orange fluo qui trafiquent dans la zone de qui\u00e9tude&#8230; Paradoxalement, les huttes de chasse sont bien plus nombreuses que les plateformes d&rsquo;observation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310049.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5042\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310049.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310049-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310049-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310049-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310049-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Les zones bleues de notre carte, de petits lacs \u00e0 l\u2019Est du grand lac sont compl\u00e8tement \u00e0 sec&nbsp;: des cuvettes peu profondes craquel\u00e9es au fond clair laiss\u00e9 par le sel et le calcaire des coquilles. Le seul limicole que nous apercevons est un Courlis cendr\u00e9. Du c\u00f4t\u00e9 des passereaux \u00e7a bouge un peu plus&nbsp;: Bruants jaunes, Bruants des roseaux, linottes m\u00e9lodieuses, Alouettes des champs, Pipits farlouses\u2026 Et nous avons la surprise d\u2019entendre chanter un Pouillot de sib\u00e9rie dans les \u00e9glantiers&nbsp;! Un pouillot en tout point semblable au Pouillot v\u00e9loce, tr\u00e8s commun, mais qui trahit son origine lointaine par son chant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le ciel se couvre, on d\u00e9cide de se rapprocher de la maison du Parc o\u00f9 l\u2019on trouvera refuge pendant la pluie. Direction Illmitz donc, sans faire de pause sur les autres points d\u2019observation. Nous sommes chaleureusement accueillis dans l\u2019espace d\u2019exposition de la maison du parc. On nous explique les enjeux li\u00e9s \u00e0 la flucuation des niveaux d\u2019eau et la difficult\u00e9 qui en d\u00e9coule de concilier les activit\u00e9s de l\u2019industrie touristique, les besoins de l\u2019agriculture, et la pr\u00e9servation de la biodiversit\u00e9. Une des guides nous conseille d\u2019explorer certaines zones au Sud sur la fronti\u00e8re hongroise, plut\u00f4t que celles qui se trouvent \u00e0 l\u2019Est, particuli\u00e8rement s\u00e8ches. On laisse passer la pluie le temps d\u2019un sandwich pris sur la terrasse p\u00e9dagogique abrit\u00e9e, devant les fresques color\u00e9es repr\u00e9sentant les oiseaux pr\u00e9sents dans la r\u00e9serve, dont l\u2019Outarde barbue, symbole du Parc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310053.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5043\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310053.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310053-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310053-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310053-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310053-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310134.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5045\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310134.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310134-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310134-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310134-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310134-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310160.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5046\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310160.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310160-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310160-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310160-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310160-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Roitelet hupp\u00e9 <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Prochaine destination&nbsp;: le petit portd\u2019Illmitz o\u00f9 l\u2019on aurait plus de chance de voir des oiseaux sur l\u2019eau ou dans les roseli\u00e8res. Un aller-retour de pr\u00e8s de dix kilom\u00e8tres pour voir trois Go\u00e9lands tout au plus. Chou blanc. Le lieu est baign\u00e9 d\u2019une atmosph\u00e8re singuli\u00e8re avec un ciel blafard au-dessus d\u2019une eau laiteuse, et ces paillottes dispers\u00e9es sur le gazon. On rebrousse chemin pour s\u2019enfoncer maintenant vers le lieu-dit de Sandeck o\u00f9 l\u2019on a des chances de voir les fameux \u00e2nes blancs du parc. Une esp\u00e8ce rustique introduite parmi d\u2019autres pour entretenir naturellement les prairies. \u00ab&nbsp;Sandeck&nbsp;\u00bb, on aurait d\u00fb se m\u00e9fier&nbsp;: \u00e7a veut dire \u00ab&nbsp;le coin du sable&nbsp;\u00bb. Une centaine de m\u00e8tres \u00e0 pousser nos mules dans la route sablonneuse\u2026 Mais pour arriver devant les \u00e2nes blancs&nbsp;blottis contre la roseli\u00e8re&nbsp;! Ils sont l\u00e0, avec leur museau trappu et leur air aussi triste que celui des \u00e2nes gris derri\u00e8re une cl\u00f4ture. On entend les Grues cendr\u00e9es en arri\u00e8re-plan, post\u00e9s sous le auvent d\u2019une grange cr\u00e9pit\u00e9e de pelottes de r\u00e9jection noires. Le nichoir fix\u00e9 l\u00e0-haut ressemble bien \u00e0 celui que l\u2019on pr\u00e9voit pour les Effraies des clochers. Le crachin s\u2019interromp bri\u00e8vement et nous profitons de l\u2019accalmie pour remonter sur nos v\u00e9los. La route est gravillon\u00e9e sur le reste du parcours, ouf. Un message \u00e0 Markus&nbsp;: nous devrions arriver avant le coucher du soleil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310167.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5047\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310167.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310167-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310167-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310167-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310167-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310176.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5048\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310176.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310176-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310176-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310176-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310176-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310178.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5049\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310178.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310178-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310178-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310178-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310178-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310187.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5050\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310187.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310187-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310187-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310187-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310187-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Chevreuil europ\u00e9en<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310200.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5051\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310200.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310200-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310200-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310200-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310200-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>\u00c2nes blancs<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310203.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5052\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310203.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310203-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310203-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310203-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310203-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Grues cendr\u00e9es <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_163847-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5135\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_163847-rotated.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_163847-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_163847-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_163847-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">   <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310213.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5053\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310213.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310213-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310213-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310213-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310213-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Le soleil rase les vignes des derniers kilom\u00e8tres du parcours, embrasant tout de rouge \u00e9carlate avant de dispara\u00eetre de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la Terre. Il fait sombre en arrivant \u00e0 Paumhagen. On distingue \u00e0 peine Markus qui nous fait signe au bout de la rue, post\u00e9 devant son portail avec deux autres hommes. Nous \u00e9changeons une vive poign\u00e9e de main pour nos pr\u00e9sentations et il nous conduit directement dans son jardin. \u00ab&nbsp;J\u2019ai pens\u00e9 \u00e0 un endroit qui pourrait vous plaire&nbsp;pour poser votre tente, une de mes serres n\u2019est pas compl\u00e8tement occup\u00e9e&nbsp;\u00bb. Markus est maraicher biologique, sp\u00e9cialis\u00e9 dans les semences de piments extra forts. Nous dormirons \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 d\u2019une partie de la r\u00e9colte, prot\u00e9g\u00e9s de l\u2019humidit\u00e9 par la grande membrane translucide de ce tunnel de plastique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310234.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5054\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310234.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310234-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310234-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310234-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310234-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">   <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_174018.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5136\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_174018.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_174018-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_174018-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_174018-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221022_174018-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310236.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5055\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310236.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310236-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310236-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310236-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310236-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Le lendemain matin, Markus nous offre un caf\u00e9 chez lui pendant lequel nous feuilletons un guide naturaliste de la r\u00e9gion. Il y a certaines zones dont les agents du parc nous ont parl\u00e9, comme les prairies steppiques de l\u2019Est de la r\u00e9serve. \u00ab&nbsp;On pourrait faire un tour ensemble&nbsp;? Je vous emm\u00e8ne en voiture&nbsp;\u00bb nous propose-t-il tout de go. Nous laissons donc nos jambes au repos sur les si\u00e8ges de l\u2019utilitaire de notre h\u00f4te, accompagn\u00e9s de Franzie, sa petite chienne noire qui est autoris\u00e9e \u00e0 sortir du v\u00e9hicule et courir derri\u00e8re quand les routes le permettent. Elle est si rapide et vigoureuse qu\u2019on l\u2019a surnomm\u00e9e \u00ab&nbsp;Crazy Franzie&nbsp;\u00bb. Notre premi\u00e8re halte se situe de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la fronti\u00e8re, en Hongrie o\u00f9 nous scrutons les champs en qu\u00eate des grues qui se rassemblent ici en ce moment. Quelle joie de les retrouver&nbsp;! Nous pensions avoir quitt\u00e9 la route des Grues cendr\u00e9es en passant de l&rsquo;autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 des montagnes tch\u00e8ques. Il faut croire que nous croisons un autre couloir car elles sont mass\u00e9es ici par milliers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310244-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5056\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310244-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310244-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310244-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310244-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310244-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310348.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5070\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310348.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310348-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310348-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310348-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310348-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1750\" height=\"1155\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310301-e1668892151328.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5062\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310301-e1668892151328.jpg 1750w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310301-e1668892151328-300x198.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310301-e1668892151328-1024x676.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310301-e1668892151328-768x507.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310301-e1668892151328-1536x1014.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1750px) 100vw, 1750px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310263.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5059\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310263.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310263-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310263-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310263-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310263-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310283.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5061\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310283.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310283-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310283-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310283-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310283-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Grues cendr\u00e9es<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous d\u00e9jeunons c\u00f4t\u00e9 hongrois pr\u00e8s du ch\u00e2teau de Fertod, lieu de vill\u00e9giature de l\u2019imp\u00e9ratrice Sissi, avant de repartir en pleine campagne. Nous avons eu la chance d\u2019observer depuis la voiture deux femelles d\u2019Outardes barbues avant qu\u2019elles aillent se cacher dans les herbes hautes. Chose qui n\u2019auraient peut-\u00eatre pas pu avoir lieu en p\u00e9dalant car les v\u00e9los les effraient bien plus que les voitures&nbsp;! Notre \u00ab&nbsp;safari&nbsp;\u00bb se poursuit sur le chemin du retour sur d\u2019autres prairies steppiques qui pourraient \u00eatre favorables, pour terminer dans un petit bar sympathique avec des amis rencontr\u00e9s en chemin. Nous faisons un dernier crochet vers l&rsquo;enclos des bisons du coin. Des individus en captivit\u00e9, mais c\u00a0\u00bbest la premi\u00e8re fois que nous voyons \u00ab\u00a0en vrai\u00a0\u00bb . Nous remontons \u00e0 nouveau notre tente pli\u00e9e le matin-m\u00eame alors qu\u2019on pensait juste prendre un caf\u00e9 avec Markus. Une journ\u00e9e bien remplie\u2026 Franzie est aussi fatigu\u00e9e que nous. Elle trouve le chemin vers son panier, et nous vers notre serre piment\u00e9e&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310349.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5071\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310349.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310349-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310349-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310349-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310349-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310306.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5063\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310306.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310306-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310306-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310306-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310306-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221023_110157-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5137\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221023_110157-rotated.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221023_110157-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221023_110157-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221023_110157-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"> <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310308.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5064\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310308.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310308-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310308-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310308-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310308-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310318.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5065\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310318.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310318-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310318-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310318-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310318-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310321.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5066\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310321.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310321-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310321-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310321-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310321-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310341.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5069\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310341.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310341-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310341-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310341-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310341-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310328.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5068\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310328.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310328-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310328-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310328-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310328-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Courlis cendr\u00e9<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310365.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5072\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310365.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310365-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310365-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310365-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310365-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Outarde barbue<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310371.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5073\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310371.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310371-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310371-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310371-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310371-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1530\" height=\"923\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310407-e1668892113860.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5074\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310407-e1668892113860.jpg 1530w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310407-e1668892113860-300x181.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310407-e1668892113860-1024x618.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310407-e1668892113860-768x463.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1530px) 100vw, 1530px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Cygne tubercul\u00e9<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310424.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5075\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310424.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310424-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310424-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310424-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310424-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310429.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5076\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310429.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310429-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310429-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310429-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310429-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310434.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5077\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310434.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310434-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310434-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310434-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310434-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310437.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5078\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310437.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310437-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310437-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310437-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310437-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"> <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310445.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5079\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310445.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310445-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310445-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310445-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310445-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Bison en captivit\u00e9<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>24 Octobre. Nous quittons Markus et Franzie, pleins de gratitude pour ces moments pass\u00e9s ensemble. Il y a des chances que l\u2019on se revoit, car notre h\u00f4te voyage de temps \u00e0 autre dans les r\u00e9gions karstiques en qu\u00eate de cavit\u00e9s \u00e0 explorer. Dingue de sp\u00e9l\u00e9ologie et d\u2019aventures en montagne, il se plairait s\u00fbrement dans le Vercors. Nous passons le cap symbolique des 10 000 kilom\u00e8tres en repassant en Hongrie, du c\u00f4t\u00e9 du village de L\u00f6vo, et trouvons un bivouac \u00e0 la sortie de Koseg, au pied d\u2019un taillis qui nous sert de pare-vue. Nous faisons fuir les chevreuils au bout du champ et les retrouvons quasiment au m\u00eame endroit le lendemain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1283\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_131619.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5220\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_131619.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_131619-300x192.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_131619-1024x657.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_131619-768x493.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_131619-1536x985.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310449.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5080\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310449.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310449-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310449-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310449-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310449-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221025_075606-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5141\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221025_075606-rotated.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221025_075606-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221025_075606-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221025_075606-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>25 Octobre. Nous slalomons de part et d\u2019autre de la fronti\u00e8re austro hongroise, sur l\u2019itin\u00e9raire cyclable du \u00ab&nbsp;rideau de fer&nbsp;\u00bb. C\u00f4t\u00e9 autrichien nous faisons s\u00e9cher la tente sur un observatoire panoramique d\u00e9labr\u00e9, oubliant au m\u00eame moment de pr\u00eater attention \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9clipse solaire partielle. On grimpe sur la colline de Heiligenbrunn et d\u00e9couvrons un village de vignerons aux toits de chaume qu\u2019il aurait \u00e9t\u00e9 dommage de manquer par flemmardise. Le d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 en valait la peine&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310455.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5081\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310455.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310455-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310455-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310455-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310455-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310459.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5082\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310459.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310459-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310459-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310459-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310459-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310466-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5083\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310466-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310466-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310466-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310466-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310466-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous basculons c\u00f4t\u00e9 hongrois \u00e0 temps pour rechercher un bivouac et tombons nez-\u00e0-nez avec un couple et ses enfants embourb\u00e9s sur le bas c\u00f4t\u00e9. Ont-ils besoin d\u2019aide pour pousser&nbsp;? Non, c\u2019est juste une panne, ils attendent des nouvelles de l\u2019assureur. On bifurque \u00e0 ce moment-l\u00e0 dans la for\u00eat. Essai non concluant car cet endroit a tout l\u2019air d\u2019\u00eatre une autoroute \u00e0 sangliers. On en ressort tout crott\u00e9s quelques minutes plus tard. Et il y a une nouvelle personne \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la voiture qui nous lance en plaisantant quelque chose qui pourrait se traduire comme \u00e7a&nbsp;: \u00ab&nbsp;c\u2019est pas le meilleur endroit pas vrai&nbsp;?&nbsp;\u00bb. On explique qu\u2019on n\u2019avait pas l\u2019intention de s\u2019enfoncer plus que \u00e7a dans ce bourbier, et qu\u2019on cherche un endroit pour planter notre tente. \u00ab&nbsp;Vous pouvez venir \u00e0 la ferme, j\u2019habite juste au bout de la route, apr\u00e8s la chapelle&nbsp;\u00bb. On n\u2019en attendait pas autant&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310471.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5085\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310471.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310471-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310471-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310471-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310471-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310468.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5084\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310468.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310468-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310468-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310468-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310468-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>C\u2019est ainsi que nous nous sommes retrouv\u00e9s chez Walter et Line, deux belges install\u00e9es en Hongrie pour \u00e9lever des vaches et produire du fromage. Assis \u00e0 m\u00eame le sol dans leur maison de terre et de bois, nous partageons un th\u00e9 et quelques d\u00e9s de fromage sec avec leurs amis venus de Vienne, ceux justement qui sont tomb\u00e9s en rade \u00e0 quelques centaines de m\u00e8tres de leur destination. Walter nous propose de dormir dans l\u2019annexe qu\u2019il a construite derri\u00e8re l\u2019\u00e9table&nbsp;: une ravissante chaumi\u00e8re en terre&nbsp;! Nous aidons \u00e0 ramener les vaches puis assistons Line pendant la traite du soir. Elle porte sa petite Louisa sur le dos, appelle ses vaches une \u00e0 une en chantonnant, remplit les gamelles de granul\u00e9s de luzerne m\u00e9lang\u00e9s \u00e0 une m\u00e9lasse vitamin\u00e9e, et branche les trayeuses sur les pis pr\u00e9alablement rinc\u00e9s \u00e0 l\u2019eau bien chaude. Louisa s\u2019endort dans le ronronnement de la pompe, dans la p\u00e9nombre balay\u00e9e par la lampe frontale de Line, et la chaleur des vaches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310484.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5086\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310484.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310484-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310484-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310484-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310484-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221025_175819-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5142\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221025_175819-rotated.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221025_175819-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221025_175819-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221025_175819-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310494.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5087\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310494.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310494-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310494-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310494-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310494-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>26 Octobre. Nous laissons \u00e0 Line et Walter une carte illustr\u00e9e en remerciement de notre s\u00e9jour chez eux et choisissons une belle portion de fromage aux noix dans leur boutique. Ravitaillement \u00e0 Szentgotthard en fin de matin\u00e9e, une ville thermale install\u00e9e sur la rivi\u00e8re Raba. C\u2019est la derni\u00e8re ville de Hongrie que nous traversons alors nous en profitons pour faire une pause caf\u00e9 sur une des terrasses du centre. Nous trouvons plus loin une aire de jeux avec de l\u2019eau potable, parfaite pour la pause de midi, et aussi pour prendre des forces avant le col qui nous attend sur la fronti\u00e8re slov\u00e8ne. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1845\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_090455-1-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5221\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_090455-1-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_090455-1-300x216.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_090455-1-1024x738.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_090455-1-768x554.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_090455-1-1536x1107.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_090455-1-2048x1476.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous remontons le torrent Torok-Patak en zigzaguant sur la route pour att\u00e9nuer le d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 parfois bien \u00e9lev\u00e9. La pente est plus douce en arrivant au col o\u00f9 nous hissons un nouveau pavillon en remplacement du drapeau hongrois. Marine v\u00e9rifie quand m\u00eame sur internet pour \u00e9viter de mettre le drapeau slovaque \u00e0 la place du drapeau slov\u00e8ne car la confusion est possible. Nous d\u00e9couvrons de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 des paysages cultiv\u00e9s, peu urbanis\u00e9s avec de dr\u00f4les de poteaux \u00e9lectriques&nbsp;: de simples troncs \u00e9corc\u00e9s. Nous rejoignons le cours de la rivi\u00e8re Ledava pour \u00e9chouer sur les rives d\u2019une grande retenue d\u2019eau o\u00f9 nous attendons le d\u00e9part des derniers p\u00eacheurs pour planter la tente.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_135140-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5144\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_135140-rotated.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_135140-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_135140-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_135140-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"> <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310500-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5088\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310500-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310500-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310500-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310500-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310500-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310503-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5089\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310503-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310503-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310503-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310503-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310503-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310526-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5090\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310526-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310526-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310526-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310526-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310526-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310529.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5091\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310529.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310529-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310529-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310529-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310529-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310535.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5092\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310535.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310535-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310535-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310535-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310535-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Grande aigrette<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310538-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5093\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310538-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310538-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310538-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310538-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310538-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>27 Octobre. la brume du matin se dissipe, les canards et les Gr\u00e8bes hupp\u00e9s s&rsquo;\u00e9loignent en voyant nos silhouettes sortir de la tente. Quelques Grandes aigrettes se d\u00e9placent dans un vol souple. Cap au Sud Est en direction de Ptuj, ville thermale \u00e0 flanc de colline sur la rive de la Drava. Nous trouvons de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 un camping bienvenu car cela fait quatre jours que nous n\u2019avons pas pris de douche. La r\u00e9ception est ferm\u00e9e, il faut s\u2019adresser \u00e0 celle du palace quatre \u00e9toiles d\u2019\u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9. Marine attend son tour dans le Hall de marbre gigantesque, derri\u00e8re un couple en s\u00e9jour spa \u00ab&nbsp;all inclusive&nbsp;\u00bb, un standing l\u00e9g\u00e8rement \u00e9loign\u00e9 du n\u00f4tre. Papiers d\u2019identit\u00e9, ticket de caisse, re\u00e7u, facture, papier \u00e0 pr\u00e9senter en \u00e9vidence sur la tente en cas de contr\u00f4le&#8230; Beaucoup de paperasse pour planter quatre sardines sur un bout de gazon&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310539.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5094\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310539.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310539-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310539-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310539-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310539-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310540.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5095\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310540.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310540-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310540-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310540-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310540-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310550.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5096\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310550.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310550-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310550-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310550-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310550-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>28 Octobre. Nous trainons jusqu\u2019en d\u00e9but d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi sur notre lopin de location. La tente est repli\u00e9e mais notre linge s\u00e8che encore et nous prenons le temps de bichonner les v\u00e9los. On peut m\u00eame les rincer \u00e0 l\u2019eau chaude avec la douchette pr\u00e9vue pour nettoyer les chiens, grand luxe. Nous pr\u00e9voyons une demi-\u00e9tape pour arriver en soir\u00e9e sur les bords du lac de Medvedece&nbsp;: une trentaine de kilom\u00e8tres sans trop de relief. Nous avons la sensation de quitter la ville par la petite porte, en partant par les jardins de l\u2019h\u00f4tel puis par une route secondaire o\u00f9 ne nous croisons que tr\u00e8s peu de voitures. En arrivant sur le lac, nous n\u2019avions pas envisag\u00e9 un d\u00e9tail&nbsp;: il est cern\u00e9 d\u2019un profond foss\u00e9 que l\u2019on ne franchit que par une passerelle et deux escaliers. Mission impossible avec les v\u00e9los charg\u00e9s. Il faut tout enlever pour transf\u00e9rer nos affaires de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9. Mais en r\u00e9compense nous avons un endroit id\u00e9al pour passer la nuit, avec les cormorans et les aigrettes perch\u00e9s sur les vieilles souches \u00e9merg\u00e9es du lac. Les n\u00e9nuphars gisent sur la vase, les roseaux ont les pieds au sec&#8230; On sent bien encore une fois que la s\u00e9cheresse fait des d\u00e9g\u00e2ts partout plus on va vers le Sud. N\u00e9anmoins le niveau d&rsquo;eau semble convenir aux Gr\u00e8bes hupp\u00e9s, aux Oies cendr\u00e9es et aux Grandes aigrettes que l&rsquo;on observe en quantit\u00e9 \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 des H\u00e9rons cendr\u00e9s et des Grands cormorans. Un groupe de B\u00e9casseaux variables est venu \u00e9gayer l&rsquo;assembl\u00e9e dans un vol synchrone, tel un banc de poissons se d\u00e9pla\u00e7ant \u00e0 toute vitesse et virant de bord brusquement. On retrouve \u00e9galement les Panures \u00e0 moustaches, que nous n&rsquo;avions pas observ\u00e9es depuis que nous avons quitt\u00e9 la Pologne !<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310568.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5099\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310568.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310568-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310568-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310568-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310568-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310564.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5098\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310564.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310564-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310564-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310564-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310564-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310604-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5102\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310604-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310604-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310604-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310604-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310604-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310618.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5103\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310618.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310618-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310618-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310618-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310618-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310659.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5104\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310659.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310659-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310659-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310659-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310659-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Panure \u00e0 moustache<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310670-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5105\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310670-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310670-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310670-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310670-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310670-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"> <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>29 Octobre. Une \u00e9tape plus cors\u00e9e nous attend aujourd\u2019hui&nbsp;: le profil altim\u00e9trique est en dents de scie. Nous nous ravitaillons pour commencer \u00e0 Slovenska bistrika, de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de l\u2019autoroute reliant Maribor et Ljubjana, dont nous nous \u00e9cartons pour foncer dans les montagnes. Nous prenons de la hauteur et appr\u00e9cions de plus en plus le relief que nous redoutions pourtant avant de passer la fronti\u00e8re slov\u00e8ne. Quand on y va \u00e0 notre rythme, on y arrive&nbsp;! Nous faisons la rencontre improbable de Ingrid et Nicolas, en randonn\u00e9e cycliste avec leur deux enfants et d\u00e9couvrons en discutant que nous avons un ami en commun pr\u00e8s de chez eux, \u00e0 Mouthe. Le monde est petit. Il est pr\u00e8s de seize heures quand nous d\u00e9cidons de nous remettre en route car ils ont encore une vingtaine de kilom\u00e8tres \u00e0 parcourir jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 l&rsquo;h\u00f4tel et de notre c\u00f4t\u00e9, il nous reste \u00e0 trouver un endroit o\u00f9 dormir. Les petits lacs sur lesquels nous avions pari\u00e9 s\u2019av\u00e8rent inhospitaliers alors nous poursuivons en regardant de droite \u00e0 gauche, puis de gauche \u00e0 droite, scannant la moindre opportunit\u00e9&nbsp;: un chemin de terre sans habitation au bout, un champ non cultiv\u00e9\u2026 Mais rien de tel ne se pr\u00e9sente. En pleine descente nous remarquons une grande halle en bois \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9cart de la route. On dirait une salle des f\u00eates. Marine demande aux voisins s\u2019il est possible de s\u2019y installer (avec l\u2019aide d\u2019un traducteur en ligne). Un homme rondouillard en bottes passe un coup de t\u00e9l\u00e9phone \u00e0 la personne responsable du lieu et nous confirme que nous pouvons rester. Hourra&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310673.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5106\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310673.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310673-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310673-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310673-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310673-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310679-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5107\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310679-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310679-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310679-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310679-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310679-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310681.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5108\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310681.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310681-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310681-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310681-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310681-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310686.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5109\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310686.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310686-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310686-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310686-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310686-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310691.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5110\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310691.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310691-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310691-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310691-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310691-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310699.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5111\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310699.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310699-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310699-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310699-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310699-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221030_083548-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5146\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221030_083548-rotated.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221030_083548-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221030_083548-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221030_083548-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>30 Octobre. Nous descendons de nos collines pour rejoindre la rivi\u00e8re Savinja en passant par Cejle, puis Zalec sur de grandes lignes droites parall\u00e8les \u00e0 une des autoroutes principales du pays. On re\u00e7oit les encouragements d\u2019une famille \u00e0 bord d\u2019un van qui nous fait de grands signes par les fen\u00eatres. \u00c7a aide dans ce genre de portions mornes et fr\u00e9quent\u00e9es. Ici les champs sont h\u00e9riss\u00e9s de poteaux supportant un syst\u00e8me d\u2019irrigation a\u00e9rien ainsi qu\u2019une maille permettant de faire pousser des plantes grimpantes. Cela fa\u00e7onne un curieux paysage, un peu comme les immenses s\u00e9choirs \u00e0 poisson en Norv\u00e8ge, mais en plus haut&nbsp;! Nous marquons une pause \u00e0 Vransko, au d\u00e9but d\u2019une longue c\u00f4te redescendant sur Ljubjana, la capitale. Nous \u00e9tudions le d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 pour la suite de la journ\u00e9e sur les si\u00e8ges en plastique moul\u00e9s de la tribune du terrain de foot o\u00f9 s\u2019entrainent des gar\u00e7ons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310706-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5112\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310706-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310706-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310706-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310706-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310706-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310717.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5113\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310717.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310717-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310717-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310717-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310717-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>L\u2019ascension se passe sans encombre, chacun de nous concentr\u00e9 sur son effort, jusqu\u2019au point culminant o\u00f9 nous remettons quelques couches pour supporter la descente. Nous prenons de la vitesse dans une vall\u00e9e plut\u00f4t encaiss\u00e9e o\u00f9 les possibilit\u00e9s de bivouacs sont minces. On s\u2019arr\u00eate plusieurs fois lorsque notre intuition nous faire pressentir une piste. Sans succ\u00e8s. On poursuit notre descente, en se rapprochant de la capitale. Alors que l\u2019on commence \u00e0 s\u2019inqui\u00e9ter de ne rien trouver, un motard nous d\u00e9passe puis ralentit pour se mettre \u00e0 notre allure. En quelques mots \u00e9chang\u00e9s, il a compris tout le chemin que nous avons parcouru et nous fait un grand pouce. Il acc\u00e9l\u00e8re puis revient \u00e0 notre hauteur. \u00ab&nbsp;Je tiens un bar o\u00f9 vous serez les bienvenus, je vous offre une bi\u00e8re ou un caf\u00e9, venez \u00e0 Tchernouch\u00e8&nbsp;\u00bb. On le remercie, et Marine essaye de ne pas oublier le nom du caf\u00e9 et celui du village (en phon\u00e9tique), dans l\u2019hypoth\u00e8se o\u00f9 se serait sur notre route du lendemain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310719.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5114\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310719.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310719-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310719-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310719-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310719-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310724-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5115\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310724-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310724-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310724-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310724-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310724-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310727-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5116\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310727-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310727-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310727-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310727-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310727-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous perdons un peu de vitesse \u00e0 Lukovika, o\u00f9 nous \u00e9tudions de plus pr\u00e8s les images satellites pour tenter de se trouver un bout de for\u00eat. Nous tombons sur un boisement de h\u00eatres comme on les aime, \u00ab&nbsp;\u00e0 l\u2019allemande&nbsp;\u00bb car ils nous rem\u00e9morent nos nombreux bivouacs du mois de Mars sur les tapis de feuilles de h\u00eatre. Une valeur s\u00fbre pour les bivouacs, car le parterre est souvent d\u00e9gag\u00e9 et bien matelass\u00e9. Nous rencontrons quelques promeneurs de chiens que nous revoyons d\u2019ailleurs le lendemain matin sur le m\u00eame parcours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310747-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5117\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310747-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310747-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310747-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310747-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310747-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>31 Octobre. La surface aplatie par notre campement est balay\u00e9e d\u2019un coup de branche pour ne laisser aucune trace. Nous faisons un crochet par le bar de Tchernouch\u00e8, qui s\u2019\u00e9crit en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 bien diff\u00e9remment, mais que nous avons r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 trouver sur la carte. Une des serveuses parle fran\u00e7ais et nous accueille gentiment. Le patron n\u2019est pas l\u00e0 mais elle s\u2019informe aupr\u00e8s de lui par t\u00e9l\u00e9phone et nous pr\u00e9pare deux caf\u00e9s au lait que l\u2019on savoure d&rsquo;autant plus que la nuit a \u00e9t\u00e9 bien fraiche. Nous sommes \u00e0 la p\u00e9riph\u00e9rie de la capitale, dont nous atteignons le petit centre pav\u00e9 et color\u00e9 apr\u00e8s une surface ininterrompue de zones commerciales et pavillonaires. Intrus parmi les pi\u00e9tons, les touristes attroup\u00e9s, les mangeurs de glace, nous tortillons du guidon pour nous frayer un chemin vers la grande plaine du Sud de la ville, de grandes prairies inondables r\u00e9put\u00e9es pour \u00eatre riches en avifaune.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310755-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5118\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310755-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310755-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310755-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310755-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310755-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"5119\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310767-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5119\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310767-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310767-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310767-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310767-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310767-rotated.jpg 1333w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"5120\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310769-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5120\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310769-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310769-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310769-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310769-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310769-rotated.jpg 1333w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous trouvons un observatoire au milieu de la r\u00e9serve naturelle pr\u00e8s du village -nomm\u00e9 Brest, apr\u00e8s de longues lignes droites perturb\u00e9es par les travaux de voirie et de canalisation. Nous retrouvons notre \u00e9l\u00e9ment&nbsp;au bout d\u2019une passerelle en bois au-dessus d\u2019un niveau d\u2019inondation qui doit \u00eatre atteint hors saison s\u00e8che. Une petite plateforme au soleil fera la plus apaisante des pauses pique-nique apr\u00e8s cet \u00e9pisode urbain. Une B\u00e9cassine passe, une femelle de Busard Saint-Martin part en chasse puis reste un moment au sol. Le soleil remplit nos batteries avec les panneaux solaires suspendus \u00e0 la treille de l\u2019observatoire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Marine contacte un camping situ\u00e9 \u00e0 une distance raisonnable pour s\u2019assurer qu\u2019il est ouvert. Nous dormirons \u00e0 Laze ce soir. Aucun rapport avec la chanson de Polnareff \u00ab&nbsp;Le bal des Laze&nbsp;\u00bb mais il n\u2019en faut pas plus pour que la m\u00e9lodie accompagne nos coups de p\u00e9dale jusqu\u2019au village perch\u00e9 sur un \u00e9peron de calcaire. Le relief, la v\u00e9g\u00e9tation, les rochers de calcaire affleurant&nbsp;: tout nous rappelle le Vercors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ce sont nos derniers jours en Slov\u00e9nie et nous tenions \u00e0 r\u00e9pertorier quelques granges traditionnelles du pays. Sur piliers ma\u00e7onn\u00e9s ou en bois, la grange slov\u00e8ne est d\u00e9pourvue de murs. Les traverses horizontales des fa\u00e7ades forment des espaliers faits pour y charger le foin en vrac. L&rsquo;\u00e9tage repr\u00e9sente un volume plus petit, souvent ajour\u00e9 par des croisillons en bois. \u00c0 l&rsquo;heure de la m\u00e9canisation de la fauche, ce syst\u00e8me n&rsquo;a plus vraiment de raison d&rsquo;\u00eatre ; cependant, on trouve encore par endroits des granges et des abris o\u00f9 l&rsquo;on s\u00e8che et stocke le foin \u00e0 l&rsquo;ancienne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310800.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5122\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310800.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310800-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310800-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310800-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310800-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5121\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310798.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310798-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310798-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310798-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310798-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>1<sup>er<\/sup> Novembre. Nous sommes \u00e0 court de provisions et tout est ferm\u00e9 en ce jour f\u00e9ri\u00e9. Il ne nous reste plus qu\u2019\u00e0 trouver un restaurant. Nous nous contenterons d\u2019un des seuls snacks ouverts \u00e0 Postonja o\u00f9 la portion \u00e9tait si maigre pour nos estomacs de p\u00e9daleurs, que l\u2019on a compl\u00e9t\u00e9 par ce qu\u2019il nous restait au fond des sacoches. Nous trouvons notre bivouac \u00e0 Seno\u017ee\u010de dans un champ en retrait de la route que nous atteignons en traversant un ruisseau \u00e0 sec. Vivement que les magasins ouvrent de nouveau car nous avons tout juste de quoi d\u00eener ce soir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310812.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5123\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310812.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310812-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310812-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310812-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310812-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Comme souvent nous dormons par intermittence, et cette nuit-l\u00e0 nous entendons passer dans le ciel un vol d&rsquo;Oies rieuses. Se rendent-elles aussi sur la c\u00f4te de l&rsquo;Adriatique ? <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>2 Novembre. Marine avait propos\u00e9 un d\u00e9tour dans la r\u00e9serve naturelle de Koper, qui rallonge consid\u00e9rablement notre itin\u00e9raire vers l&rsquo;Italie. Croisons les doigts pour qu&rsquo;on y retrouve les oies ! La matin\u00e9e commence dans un nuage, sous lequel nous passons pour d\u00e9couvrir maintenant des coteaux secs plant\u00e9s de ch\u00eanes et d&rsquo;herbes aromatiques qui sentent le Sud. Nous descendons \u00e0 toute vitesse vers la c\u00f4te, et apercevons l&rsquo;horizon flou de la mer. Avec une certaine \u00e9motion : nous venons de relier la Baltique \u00e0 l&rsquo;Adriatique ! <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310828.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5126\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310828.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310828-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310828-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310828-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310828-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310834-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5127\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310834-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310834-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310834-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310834-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310834-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310838-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5128\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310838-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310838-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310838-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310838-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310838-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>On slalome entre la fronti\u00e8re slov\u00e8ne et italienne, pour amorcer une descente vertigineuse sur les rues raides et pav\u00e9es d&rsquo;un village accroch\u00e9 \u00e0 la pente. On se dit en arrivant en bas qu&rsquo;on n&rsquo;aurait jamais pu le faire en sens inverse ! <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>L&rsquo;arriv\u00e9e sur Koper met fin \u00e0 notre \u00e9pisode de montagnes tranquilles. Place maintenant \u00e0 une zone industrialo-portuaire immense, \u00e0 des mar\u00e9es de voitures neuves en transit, des conteneurs empil\u00e9s, des hangars, des cuves \u00e9normes, des zones commerciales \u00e0 parking et ronds-points, et ses \u00e9changeurs routiers o\u00f9 nous perdons le sens de l&rsquo;orientation. La bonne nouvelle c&rsquo;est que les supermarch\u00e9s ne manquent pas. La moins bonne c&rsquo;est que la r\u00e9serve naturelle -pour laquelle Marine avait insist\u00e9 m\u00eame si cela signifiait deux cents kilom\u00e8tres de d\u00e9tour, est \u00e0 quelques centaines de m\u00e8tres de tout ce bazar, coinc\u00e9e entre l&rsquo;autoroute et la zone industrielle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Si l&rsquo;on fait abstraction du contexte et du bruit de la circulation la zone humide est plut\u00f4t pas mal. Mais \u00e7a ne valait pas un si grand d\u00e9tour. On y fait un tour rapide, en laissant nos v\u00e9los en s\u00e9curit\u00e9 \u00e0 l&rsquo;accueil, jumelles autour du cou, longue-vue sur l&rsquo;\u00e9paule. On sursaute \u00e0 chaque fois que les Bouscarles de Cetti se manifestent. Elles \u00e9clatent en note sonores comme si elles s&rsquo;\u00e9taient retenues de chanter toute la journ\u00e9e. Nous cherchons les R\u00e9miz penduline qui poussent leur  cri plaintif dans les roseli\u00e8res, avec en arri\u00e8re-plan les conteneurs du port.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310844.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5152\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310844.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310844-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310844-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310844-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310844-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310860.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5131\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310860.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310860-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310860-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310860-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310860-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310845.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5129\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310845.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310845-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310845-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310845-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310845-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Canards siffleurs<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>l&rsquo;heure tourne, nous devons r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer les v\u00e9los avant la fermeture du centre d&rsquo;accueil de la r\u00e9serve et trouver un bivouac sans trop tarder. Une chose est s\u00fbre, c&rsquo;est que nous devrons p\u00e9daler beaucoup pour trouver un coin tranquille. La colline la plus proche, sous l&rsquo;antenne de t\u00e9l\u00e9communications ? Pari risqu\u00e9 si l&rsquo;on regarde les vues satellite : les flancs sont enti\u00e8rement cultiv\u00e9s et il y a des constructions jusqu&rsquo;au sommet. On d\u00e9cide de retourner sur une portion uniquement cyclable par laquelle nous sommes venus, la garantie qu&rsquo;il n&rsquo;y aura pas de fr\u00e9quentation la nuit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pas simple de trouver un endroit plat dans ce relief comprim\u00e9 devant la mer. Tout est raide de part et d&rsquo;autre de la voie cyclable. Un chemin en rampe raide en part. Gabriel part explorer l\u00e0 haut un bon quart d&rsquo;heure et nous d\u00e9gote une terrasse avec vue dans une vieille oliveraie envahie de gen\u00eats ! Par contre, tout se m\u00e9rite : l&rsquo;acc\u00e8s est si difficile qu&rsquo;il faut s&rsquo;y prendre \u00e0 deux par v\u00e9lo pour le hisser jusqu&rsquo;au champ.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310869.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5132\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310869.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310869-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310869-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310869-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/1310869-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/1310879-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5728\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/1310879-rotated.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/1310879-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/1310879-682x1024.jpg 682w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/1310879-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/1310879-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>2 Novembre. Nous rejoignons la gare de Trieste pour y prendre le train r\u00e9gional pendant vingt minutes, dans l&rsquo;id\u00e9e de nous \u00e9pargner la route c\u00f4ti\u00e8re tr\u00e8s urbanis\u00e9e. Nous descendons au premier arr\u00eat, \u00e0 Monfalcone, o\u00f9 nous reprenons les v\u00e9los en direction d&rsquo;une nouvelle r\u00e9serve naturelle. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221103_082316-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5223\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221103_082316-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221103_082316-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221103_082316-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221103_082316-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221103_082316-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221103_082316-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221103_082316-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Nouveau et dernier pavillon<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"750\" data-id=\"8636\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_131619-1-1024x750.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-8636\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_131619-1-1024x750.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_131619-1-300x220.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_131619-1-768x563.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_131619-1-1536x1125.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_131619-1.jpg 1585w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"719\" data-id=\"8637\" src=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_112131-1024x719.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-8637\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_112131-1024x719.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_112131-300x211.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_112131-768x540.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_112131-1536x1079.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221026_112131-2048x1439.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>21 Octobre. Bratislava aurait m\u00e9rit\u00e9 que l\u2019on s\u2019y arr\u00eate un peu&nbsp;: la ville a l\u2019air moderne, bien am\u00e9nag\u00e9e. Une grande zone pi\u00e9tonne pav\u00e9e nous m\u00e8ne tout droit dans un grand complexe commercial o\u00f9 l\u2019on essaie de faire changer la veste de Gabriel au D\u00e9cathlon. La fermeture \u00e9clair s\u2019est cass\u00e9e en quelques mois d\u2019utilisation intensive. Sans [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5012","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5012","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5012"}],"version-history":[{"count":90,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5012\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8639,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5012\/revisions\/8639"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5012"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5012"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclopithecus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5012"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}